Archive through December 20, 2004

[kweaver]

Anybody ever notice on the pic of my home made tractor that the right lift arm had a 3/8 racket welded at the top ? Adjustable right side lift arm just like the big'uns ... when you don't have a small / strong right angle gear box you use what's handy and in reach Those lift arms just had one nut on the pipe with a clevis configuration on the bottom end. I could adjust it while I was driving.
<font size="-2">no comments about the nut in the seat</font>

Richard you could make lift arms like that. They swing good with only the top ball swivel , you can close the bottom of a pipe with a plug drilled in the center for a shouldered rod to come through with a clevis and get away with turning the pipe to adjust with only a top nut. That'll delete the need for a hard to find left nut.

 

[jgeorg]

Terry, you have to go south for snow. We have nothing but a little ice just north of the cities.

John

 

[digger]

Bryan,
GOOD POINT!!!!!!!!! LOL

Terry B.
South of Rochester about 30 miles, we ended up with about 6" total, super nice powder too!

 

[bmcmeen]

You mean nobody's noticed the 22" in Michigan City?

 

[jsimpson]

Come on, Ken! Give us pictures, drawings, sketches, ....something!!~

 

[dkamp]

Ken- looking back at your post... are you suggesting that Richard give up his left-nut? Like you said, it's tough to find replacements...

And gawd yes- cover the ways! I found leather blankets to toss over each machine... not only for welding and grinding, but also for storage... they're so permeated with ways-oil that they should keep 'em in good shape for a long time. Seems that no matter how I try, abrasive dust ends up on stuff in the shop... gotta keep that (and welding spatter) off the sensitive machines.

Terry- I don't stand it up on end and walk around it... I've got 1/2" ball bearings supporting my shop floor... my radio tower is bolted to the north side, so when I need to re-point my antenners, I just turn the whole building, and weld standing still.

Of course, I've seen a few guys who drink 'till the room spins, THEN they strike the arc... and the weld looks perfect to 'em for at least 2-3 hours... just never drunk a lathe on your trust...

 

[tgolding]

Gentleman,
I have just rebuilt my K301 and installed it back into my 128. Fired it over ran it for 15-20 mins all went well. Then I went to restart it after I retorqed the Head.
1. Starter Generator sounded like it was spinning on the inside, but nothing on the outside. Then it would catch and bang fire the engine over. What would cause this?

2. My newly rebuilt carb is leaking fuel just like before. I checked the float, it works and there are no holes in it. I did have a problem adjusting it but finally got it close to what the manual said. any ideas on what to look for here?

all in all it is good to go or at least as it seems at this moment.

It was also 6 degrees outside today. Would that have any thing to do with it?

 

[tschweizer]

Looky what Steve B got me. Been looking for one of these for almost 3 years!!! Sorry about the pics, but at least I don't have 2 posted side by side

 

[rchristensen]

The problem with building a Cat 0 adjustable lift arm is probably the reason they don't sell them. The main problem is the short distance you have to work with. The close proximity of the upper and lower lift arms along with the short movement in the upper lift arms must make a large movement in the lower lift arms. On a large tractor you have a lot of space to work with, longer lift arms and farther apart so you can have a lot of adjustment.

On a Cat 0 lift link it works out to about 8 inches for the minimum distance pin to pin to get the most lift, any less and you will try and pull the metal apart. You need to allow 2 to 3 inches distance on both ends for the lift link to swivel on the upper and lower lift arms. Once you subtract that distance there isn't much room for a threaded center piece, especially if you want both left and right turn nuts and all thread.

That is probably why some systems use this type that mounts the all thread outside of the upper or lower lift arm. You can use a longer all thread but you still can not go less than the 8 inches pin to pin. I didn't like to go this way since the lift is not square on the lift arm.

Another system I built using a ball for the top and on the final version the lower piece would have an additional bracket over the lower lift arm so the lower bracket would have a straight lift on the lower lift arm.

Another one I built, not pretty but workable.

Just haven’t found the right combination yet. I might just try something simple and see how it works. Any way Ken thats some of the things I've tried and not been very happy with.

 

[mmasheris]

I use a piece of 1" square tubing mill out a slot and weld in a piece of 1/2" flat stock with 5/8" hole in it weld a 5/8" black nut to the other end.Weld a Speco link eye to a 5/8" threaded rod and paint.They have been working well .Left hand is a lot more work.This one works fine bottom link is factory

(Message edited by mmasheris on December 20, 2004)

 

[mtoney]

I would definatly be interested in a true cat "0" 3pt hitch for my model 71 cub. I think once you work the bugs out, you will come up with a workable design Richard. Keep us all posted. Cheers Mike

 

[bmcmeen]

Todd G. -

If it's anything like my 169, it's probably the S/G belt tension.

 

[gwsmith]

Travis.....nice unit, runs off the pto?....post more photos..

 

[kweaver]

Richard & Mike having to un hook the lift arm to adjust is bull as I'm sure Richard is trying to do away with IF he is trying to build a better CAT 0 lift. You can't stop in the middle of a run and get out the tools and hold up traffic as @ PD's , they must be adjusted with a double swivel.
If you shorten the upper lift arms you can lengthen the adjustable down arms. .... looks like I'll have to take pics of the monster ...

Todd did you back fire it trying to restart ? Sounds like a sheared key.

 

[tcbusch]

Todd G,
I've had a leaky carb before. Turns out that the bowl was pushed up in the center. This caused a weak seal around the bowl lip. I took the bowl off and set it on a piece of flat wood with the lip facing up. I put another piece of wood inside the bowl and tapped it with a hammer. That drove the hole that the bowl nut went through further away from the lip. When I put it back on it sealed tighter.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Richard, here are some photos of the CAT-0 hitch that the AC 620 has. Perhaps it will help with your design. Note that the upper lift arm is not squarely above the lower arm. The bottom of the link has an angle to it.

<font size="-2">I put two photos side by side but I think I got away with it......</font>

 

[kmcconaughey]

Also on the AC 620 CAT-0 hitch the lift link is adjustable with a hand crank. It also has a float setting. At the top of the lift link there is a shouldered pin that slides. In one position it allows the lift link to slide up, in the other position it locks it in place. The shouldered pin is held in place by two hair pin clips. In these photos it is in the float position, note that the lift link is up about an inch.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's a couple photos of the CAT-0 Haban that Travis has. I took these at PD8 before Travis got it from Steve.

Steve, thanks for suggesting that I take some photos of the Haban. )

 

[pfunk]

Richard C. Here's some pictures of the category 0 three point I made for the Mini-560. I created more room by connecting the two lower links forward and below the transmission. I don't know that you'll have room to do that on a Cub Cadet, but thought the pictures might help. I have a lot more pictures, but it just takes too long to upload them from my home computer.

 

[pfunk]

One more to see what the finished product looks like on the tractor.