Archive through December 18, 2009

[fsnerd]

i believe the backfiring was part of the exhaust leak which was causing the stalling when hot.

so, i am going to apply furnace cement today to fix the exhaust leak, which should solve the backfiring.

but, im not done on here yet, stand by for stupid snow thrower questions, i think i am missing parts, or maybe i took off too many parts when i took off the mower. i am trying to put the snow thrower on now, and i do not see any way to lift it, after it is on the tractor.
but, maybe i can figure this one out.

 

[aschumacher]

Frank, early info till someone posts a picture.
Look here.. http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/
Maybe something there to help.

 

[kide]

Frank:
The backfiring is caused by raw gas in the muffler, the leak was caused possibly by too much backfiring. You can plug the leak, but that's most likely a consequence, not the cause..

 

[fsnerd]

ok that is it. my 128 is cursed.

it does need an exorcism.

figured out the snow thrower. it lifts from the right side exterior, with the electric lift, not from underneath , like the mower.

i do not understand all that quick attachment stuff for the mower, it all comes off for the thrower, which makes taking the mower off more work, not less.

anyway, the pto clutch needed adjusting, i noticed it with the mower, but figured i would wait and do it when i put the thrower on.
the clutch rod snapped.
i didnt even force it, must have been cracked.

oh well, at least the repairs are getting easier.

 

[fsnerd]

more on the backfiring, i read somewhere about lowering the idle and waiting a minute before shutting it off to avoid a backfire on shut off. shutting it off that way stopped the backfire on shut off. it only backfired on a stall. since the temporary repair of the exhaust leak, it has not backfired.
so, i will guess, it stalled because of the exhaust leak and backfired because it stalled at a high idle.

so, with the exhaist leak fixed, no more styalling at high idel and no more backfiring.

 

[dfrisk]

MATT G. - I'm going to go with Kendell on this one, rear suitcase weights get the weight farther back and push down on the rear wheels harder therefore more traction. Wheel weights are fine but VERY expensive. I've got six sets of weights and only three are actual CC weights. To Me iron is iron and it's all weight when pushing snow, but I am pretty picky about what I put the weights on.

I wouldn't worry about putting 250-300# on the back of a Cubbie. I saw a discussion on the green tractor board about their tractors being able to handle 400-500# depending on the model and a CC has a stronger rearend than any of them do.

I saw a 72 with 250+# on the rearend plus someone jumping on them bouncing the frt wheels off the ground years ago.

Under a hard pull there's so much more stress on those axle carriers than a few hundred pounds of weight sitting on them.

 

[kide]

Dennis:
Bad move...it may be recorded in the logbook..

There can actually be a drawback to too many wheelweights - the inertia of all that weight can be hard on an axle (or the spider gears in the diff) if you start horsin' the shifter back and forth, especially on ice (of course that would apply more to a hydro than a gear drive, cause you usually can't shift a gear drive that quick).

 

[wshytle]

Frank-

Have you put a timing light on the 128 yet? I hear all this talk about backfiring and nobody has mentioned timing (unless I just overlooked it). If it has been timed it it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to time it again just to make sure.

Another .02 .....Wayne

 

[aschumacher]

Hey guys, if the little point push rod is worn or peened over, can you ever get it into time? Doesn't the fact of .020 clearance mean on/near timed?? Its not like a car and rotate the distributor to time...

 

[fsnerd]

it was timed when it was stalling.

the backfiring was only occurring when it stalled at full throttle. now that it does not stall, i just cut the throttle back to idle before shutting it down.

they are calling for 6-10" of snow by Sunday noon.

i will be sure to post pics of whatever desperate measures i take to get the pto clutch to work and counter weights.

i am thinking bailing wire to tie the pto in the on position, and a bolens three point hitch with a barrel on it filled with something for weight.

 

[mgonitzke]

Did you time it with an ohmmeter, timing light, or just by setting the points to .020"? If it was the latter, that may not in fact correspond to the correct timing.

 

[kide]

Ok, before every one gets excited over Frank's backfiring, let's be clear...I'm pretty sure he means AFTER the engine quit, which is a pretty common occurrence and would not be strange at all, if the engine was running at WOT when it stalled..I hate to send Frank down another long path....he's suffered enough already (NO lookin' at green, Frank!!)

As a matter of fact, I've been a little concerned about the 129, as it's quit doing it for the most part.. I guess I'm not working it hard enough anymore.

 

[rbeem]

Frank S.

You're scaring me man. Baling wire? Furnace Cement?

 

[tsantoli]

My 1650 was rear ended by a car years ago and the chassis was twisted in the process to the point that one side of the thrower blade doesn't reach the ground when lowered.

Should/ can I;

Install the float lockout pin to force the thrower down?

Lengthen/ bend the high side linkage.

How can I get the chassis strait?

This chassis also causes the unit to go through driveshaft rag joints as well.

Thanks,

Tom

 

[bcook]

Tom S.: Sounds like it's time to swap the chassis!

Many of the pullers have parted out 1650s and 1450s to get the engines from them. The frames usually sell for less than $20.

 

[dfrisk]

Kendell - I didn't know You were keeping score!

What Your saying about about direction changes is possible but a Cubbie can surely handle substantial abuse. Son used to try to leave black marks on the driveway with the 129 by shifting forward & reverse. It had 10.50 turf tires & about 50# of weights per wheel. The last thing I was worried about with it was the rearend.

 

[wheinsohn]

In talking about the weight and stress that our cubbies rear ends and axle housings will take, I ask just 2 questions. First, how much stress are they taking while we are out plowing a farmers field at plow days? I have never seen a cubbie taken out of the field with any axle or housing problems. And as for weight, how much does a tiller weigh with both extentions? I was told it weighs over 200# and it is hanging off the back and not on it. I have 65# in each wheel and over 130# hanging on the backend with my 225# on the seat. I have had this set-up for 10 years and have not had any problems to date other than shearing a driveshaft pin a few years ago. But in it's defense, it is the first pin that I have ever put in this poor, hard working 106.

 

[kide]

I don't want to start another "debate" as Josh is allergic to 'em, but there is a difference in the forces applied. I was referring to trying to not just stop (or start) a 50-200 pound "flywheel" but to actually reverse the direction it's rolling in without a smooth stop. I <u>have</u> had my wheels spin on glare ice and I <u>have</u> seen lots of busted axles and spider gears on supposedly tough rear ends. I know the pullers use the Cub diffs, but the application of power is actually a lot less sudden and smoother than what I'm talking about... It was all theory anyway....(but if you ever are around a lathe that uses a threaded headstock spindle, don't try the reversing trick unless you're good a "catch the chuck")

 

[fsnerd]

timed with a timing light.

i figured out as soon as you guys mentioned the backfiring you were not understanding it was occurring after it stalled at full throttle. since the exhaust has been repaired, it has not stalled, or backfired.

furnace cement was suggested by guys on here, so dont blame me. it is for a small leak at a joint in the exhaust. i am afraid to try to remove the exhaust to repair because i think it is the original exhaust and the exhaust system will fall apart.
furnace cement makes sense to me, it can handle the heat.

the bailing wire is because my PTO clutch rod snapped, i need a way to activate the snow thrower.
6-14" of snow on the way.

 

[kide]

Frank:

The rod broke?? You need a set of torches just to keep up with that rascal (I'd braze a sleeve around the broken part to get it goin')