Archive through December 16, 2016

[danderson]

Replace the piston. Chances are the bore will be tapered or out of round and require reboring anyway.

 

[dkirk]

It's old and tired and has been used many times, but here it is again - my IH Cub Cadet Digital Christmas Card.

Wishing all of you on this fine forum A Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!

Dave Kirk
Kirk Engines, Inc.

 

[nbodin]

Jason. All that piston is good for is a paper weight. I would get a tap to run through for the head bolts. I would also use copper coat on gaskets but that is just my preference.

 

[mhorozko]

Can you really place a number of hours run time or years of use on a connecting rod? Are the con rods of today just as "sturdy" as those of yesteryear? Please then inform me of that brand. Also, will shot peening increase it's life expectancy. Thanx, Mike

 

[mfrade]

Again, I'd agree. New piston with a new rod.
BUT! speak to your machinist before buying any parts. Have them measure the cylinder and determine the taper. They'll tell you which oversize piston to buy.

And download or buy a manual, read it a couple times and understand the info, get comfortable with the names / descriptions / parts.

You can do it, the folks here have been through it and can help you along the way. So you won't be alone in this journey!

 

[mfrade]

Michael H., while I have no documents proving otherwise, there have been many engines that have simply had a con rod break, since there isn't an hourmeter on these units, we can only speculate that there is a finite amount of hours they can run. Many of those that failed are right from the OEM factory.

I'd have no opinion on the shot peening. I know it works well on cast iron parts. I don't think it'll offer much improvement on the aluminum parts.

 

[nbextermueller]

Shotpeening won't do anything for an aluminum rod. But polishing it will do wonders. You want to sand down any casting marks, and take the whole rod through grits to 400-600. Then break out a brand new scotch-brite wheel and polish til it shines. You can go into compounds if you really want. We put rods that look like jewelry into pulling engines. ANY crack, casting mark, or hard edge can become a stress riser.

So make it shine!

 

[eford]

Torque wrench, piston ring compressor-correct size, little straight edge razor or scraper for removing gaskets, some various cleaners and lubricants in a spray can(wd-40, liquid wrench, brake parts cleaner, carb cleaner, etc) usual SAE sockets and wrenches, few kinds of pliers, thread taps/dies for any you wish to chase and clean. Be wary of grade of tools you buy for this endeavor, cheap harbor freight might be OK for some tools, but junk in others. I'd stick with run-of-the-mill tools. Craftsman and Master force(Menard's) have warranties to replace if you brake them. Don't let this list overwhelm you, take it slow with basic socket and wrench set and go from there.

Looking forward to more seat time on the 100 tomorrow, 8-12 inches expected by Sunday morning.

 

[eford]

Nic, would you also polish the crank and other internals? I never heard of that other than head ports. Not that I'm an expert by any means.

 

[mfrade]

Jason, one "tool" that can be a huge help for your memory is a camera! Especially when your removing any linkages, or the spacers location on the cylinder heads.. things like that.

Snap a photo or two before disassembly of these different pieces and it can help when you reassemble.

 

[dkirk]

 

[jmusits]

Earl - thanks for the list. Other than a toque wrench and piston ring compressor I'm in pretty good shape. I completely agree with buying quality tools...I used to work in the tool dept at Lowes - I've been very happy with the Kobalt hand tools. Supposedly made in the Snap-on factory (at least 15 years ago).

Mike F - totally. My phone is full of pics of the cub and the Koehler right now!

 

[fcurrier]

Jason: I'll add a valve spring compressor to the list.

 

[eford]

Wow Dave K!! I need a silver chain and that will make a great necklace!

Frank, I forgot about that, good catch.
Jason, I've got a wide mix of tool brands and have this to say,
If it does its job, it's worth the price!
I've had a harbor freight torque wrench at work for 6 years now, use it few times a month and works fine

 

[dschwandt]

And a set of feeler gauges and maybe even a ring compressor. Mine have been in my tool box for over 50 years. You may also need a puller to remove the flywheel.

Again, don't loose the governor thrust washer and the cam shim/s.

Sure wish you were my neighbor, I'd be right over w/my tool box! You furnish the coffee and doughnuts!!lol

 

[hydroharry]

Ok, how do you guys propose Jason measure the end play of his camshaft and crankshaft?

 

[eford]

See how it's easy to overlook what you need? Harry, what do you suggest?

I'm curious about the shop. View of your 124's engine.

 

[mgonitzke]

Harry-

Feeler gauges?

 

[dschwandt]

Ummm.....
What did I say???

 

[ecaye]

Hello everyone
Well it's winter and I cannot get my1650 to start. I cleaned the carb set the points fresh gas and plug. This may be a dumb question when you set the points is the piston at the top? I have never played with points before. Some of you may remember awhile back I started to get involved just got side tracked. Any help would be appreciated