Archive through December 15, 2010

[ljones]

Greg, it is good for keeping the screws tight on carb buterflys.

It was 3 here yesterday morning, the pond was solid enough to drive my 122 on (sorry didn't have my camera and it is raining freezing rain right know.

 

[aschumacher]

Greg, take a quick look here...other guys will probabily add on later. The red stuff seems to need a torch to loosen !
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_blue/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Blue-242.htm

 

[wshytle]

Greg-

First of all, have you modified the rail system by welding the rails together? This greatly increases the life of the rubber. I think I remember seeing this procedure in the FAQs. I just haven't looked lately but I know they can be found easily. Secondly, the rails I've delt with have had Stover nuts on the mounting bolts. These nuts are all metal locking nuts and shouldn't need any thread locker.

 

[wshytle]

Greg-

It is number 23 in Charlies FAQs.

 

[dtanner]

Yepper, gotta poof it Donnie
Charlie

Charlie you can

this if you need to!

 

[aaytay]

Michael-
Got any close up pics of that dealer decal? I have a 169 in similar condition with the decal in the same spot.

By the way, I think the correct style mufflers for these tractors are No Longer Available, but keep us posted if you find one. Mine could use one too.

 

[digger]

Art,
I've sent 3 169 mufflers off to the big 3 manufacturers of mufflers for GT's and hope to hear back soon.

 

[aaytay]

Charlie-

 

[glippert]

Wayne - I did the rail mod on my grandson's 1250, but this is my "test" 1450 where I replaced the rubber ISO mounts with solid mounts. I didn't think the mod would be of any benefit (no movement/twisting when the rails on solid mounted to the frame). I was just curious whether or not others might recommend using threadlock there.

 

[masmith]

I did not know the 169's had a different muffler. Guess I better check into that before I put one of the older ones I have here on.

 

[dfrisk]

GREG - I keep Lock-Tight i ALL the assorted colors around all the time. There's not too many bolts or fasteners that get assembled in my shop dry anymore. Depending on what it is they get either Lock-Tight or anti-sieze. With the right tools the RED can be disassembled without heat but I recommend the BLUE for anything 5/16" thread size or less and the RED should be used with at least Grd #5 fasteners.

Years ago when SON & I raced R/C cars, almost ALL gas cars we literally GLUED those things together with Lock-Tight, with engines running 30,000-40,000 RPM they would start to disassemble themselves in a hurry if you didn;t use L/T. The first R/C vehicle we ever bought came with a little blister package of off-brand BLUE.

ART - I bet that K341 would sound great with a STRAIGHT PIPE!

 

[ljones]

Michael, here is a pic of the 169's muffler.

Staight pipe

 

[ljones]

And a couple more

 

[kmcconaughey]

Michael, nice find on the 169! Say, is that your Jeep Renegade in the background? If so, could you post a photo of it HERE

Jeff U., nice score on the tiller/lift!

JB, nice 149! I see it's winking.

 

[fcurrier]

Terry Reed:

This will be its third winter. We bought it when we sold the building I was using for a woodworking shop. It was cheaper than renting a storage unit for a year and being considered temporary there's no property tax or building permit to deal with. Right now there's 4 Cub Cadets, the woodsplitter and a sweeper in it and room for more. The framework is imported (each piece has a cute little "MADE IN CHINA" decal on it).

 

[masmith]

Kraig, it is and I will, as soon as the 1/2" of ice melts off it from the ice storm we had last night. That way I don't have to walk outside and bust my

again.

 

[adonohue]

when i was taking apart the carburator for the kohler im rebuilding, i broke onw of the screws off in the choke shaft. i was told that the choke shaft is no longer avialable and i would have to buy a whole carburator. is that true or are the small carburator parts still avialable? if they are avialable is there a good place to buy that online? i believe its the kohler carburator and not the carter or walboro, dont really know how to tell the difference. if cannot buy the part anymore is it possible to drill it out and use a new screw. i was told you cant drill it out becuase its brass.

 

[digger]

Andrew D.
It's a little late now, but for future projects. Take a small torch or soldering iron and heat the screws up just a little, that loosens the locktite holding them in.
Drill it out a little smaller than the original hole. Re-tap it and go to your nearest auto parts store and get new screws.

 

[vthomley]

Tarp Sheds - I know of a place in the Twin Cities, well Minneapolis, that maybe have some teflon tarp type material (USED) to get rid of... Another section tore yesterday.

Winter is coming soon, I think it starts next Tuesday. I'm mounting the QA-36A Snow thrower to my 149 this weekend, the snow piles around my place are 6-10 feet high. This is the Snow Thrower I won at the Iowa Plow Day a few years ago, I think it is time to try it out.

 

[dfrisk]

Andrew - With a good sharp tap Brass is real easy to cut new threads into. Also a Carter Carb = Kohler. Kohler never actually made carbs.

There should be a main fuel adj needle sticking straight out of the top just beside the throttle shaft, and and idle speed screw just to the right but horizontal and then about an inch away there will be the idle speed screw at about a 45 deg. angle.

Carter "PEENED" (deformed the exposed threads) the throttle & choke blade screws over that hold the round valve plates to the shafts.