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Archive through December 13, 2013

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akleyla

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Joined
Mar 26, 2011
Messages
299
displayname
Amy J. Kleyla
Ok,so what I ended up doing was using a 4 1/2 grinder an took maybe 1/8 off the top which then let me get vise grips on top of the broken button an it unscrewed. You cant even tell that I took 1/8th in off it. So it ended up being easier than I had thought thankfully. The float button or lock button I pushed the button down an locked it so I could grind the top of the lift lever then I released it an put the vise grips on top. So im hoping im ready to go for the snow tomorrow ! Thanks for the suggestions they did help
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LOL!

Amy, I think you just made alot of very experienced people look a little silly. I have seen pages of discussion on how to fix a broken button and not once ddo I remember someone cutting the top down a bit!

Great idea, glad you got it fixed. Let's see some pics of that baby in snow gear.
 
LOL !!

Nic,I think they might slap me for that one ;)
 
That sure stumped me, Amy. However I did "fix" my implement lift of topic, by buying a hydro lift! And that's no kidding.

On a side note, we're gearing up for another cold, cold, snow forecast with significant accumulations through Sunday!
 
Amy......not to mention that those stinkin' lil' buttons are about $25. - $30. bucks.
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Great idea on the cutting off down of the handle.
 
Amy - geez, I'm really surprised there was enough of the broken button left that you could get ahold of it just by cuting off that 1/8". Most of mine broke off way down at the stem part where it narrows to catch that little lock button when it's depressed.
Now, are you saying you left the vice grips in place for now so you could go for snow tomorrow (guess that's today now).
 
Don Tanner. Some cubs not all use a dowell pin for the front pin in the drive shaft. They use spirol pin in the rear position. It's best to check the parts lookup for the proper pin. I can see no reason to put grease on a driveshaft. I think it would only be a dirt collector and cause the spring to wear it more. Just my 02 cents
 
OMG I know right? The button was $21 here locally.

Harry,I put my vise grips away in the tool box since id fixed the button. I must have gotten lucky where it broke off. I can see ho difficult it would be if it broke off any lower.

We didnt get the snow they said we were going to get,looks like my smaller blower is going to get used again....my poor cub isnt getting much time with no real snows
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Still snowing here too! Here's a pic of the tag team. (last year photo, but same team for this year.)
I figure I got a couple more hours to wait before I start playing.
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AMY - I have to agree with NIC B. NONE of us old timers had used that method of repair, we always did it the hard way. GREAT JOB! That's thinking "Outside the Box!"

FRANK - The Hydro's used the steel dowel pin, because only one 1/4" dia pin drives the whole tractor.

While I agree with Jim D. that spirol roll pins are much stronger than a normal roll pin, I think both my GD's have just normal roll pins in the clutch plates that are decades old with no problems. The rear pin just transmits half the torque of the engine, the frt pin transmits the other half plus holds the pressure of the clutch spring. If you want to make sure you won't have a problem, I've run smaller roll pins down inside the 1/4" dia roll pins before. Spirol pins can be really hard to find some places.

The Hardware binder followed me home from one of my purchasing jobs years ago. It has ALL KINDS of spec sheets on specialty hardware and Timmerman clips, roll pins, etc. It's a full-size D-ring binder about 4-5 inches thick separated by MFG's.

I also agree on the greasing of the driveshaft, just attracts dirt which makes a dandy abrasive mess, and if a bit of grease gets on the clutch plates will cause clutch slippage. AND NO.... I was not out greasing my drive shafts.
 
Denny

I did put a small amount of marine grease on the drive shaft to help the throw out bearing move. The grease is water proof for salt water for pill block bearings in a ship prop shaft. (good stuf)

My cub will run soon as I have a carb cleaned and ready and the points are in great shape. Frank sold me the 109 and I was impressed with how it worked and the power that 10 kohler gives.

The weather guessers say we are in for a big snow storm . I should finish up the Cub so I can push some snow with blade.
 
Amy K. I've encouraged others to try this stuff... Strong Arm Spray... IT WORKS!!! I used it last summer to remove the very piece that you're trying to remove. Secret is to spray it from the bottom of the assembly UP so the penetrant can actually get into the rusted piece. There are TWO products that I highly recommend and the other is CONKLIN. Once you use them anything else will be like pouring water on what you're trying to loosen. I don't know why more people don't try these two products. PB Blaster is nothing compared to these two. I've used both on two old screw type house jacks. BOTH were rusted from years of sitting outside and one sat in water for fifteen years. I put the product (one on each jack) and left them sit for five days due to the size of the area rusted tight, plus it was during the work week. On a Saturday morning, both were loose within fifteen minutes of playing around.

Also... Those little nuts and sthat oh-so frequently get rusted so tight on the old rear reflectors come lose real easy after sparying either one of these two above mentioned products on them.
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Shultzie
I have a cab like the one you posted and some day I should try to mount it . I bet it makes the job of blowing snow so much warmer .Great looking bunch of snow movers you have there ! I hope to be out working a Cub in the am . just have to fill the gas can today.
 
DON T. - Hope you didn't put much grease on that drive shaft.... BAD idea IMO. For situations like that, I find a small amount of anti-sieze works much better, lubes as well or better than grease and dirt doesn't stick to it.

I don't even paint driveshafts except where nothing rubs or slides.
 
Denny

No just a little from the end of my finger is all and just where the bearing sets on the drive shaft. I sure wish some else had some cubs that lived close by. I would love to have someone to work at tractors with .
 
HELP, anyone know what size belt a QA42 on a 1450 would take. Only option to get to right now would be a hardware store. Anyone have the dimensions so they could match it up.
 

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