-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through December 11, 2014
- Thread starter ccarney
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Yes it is different/smaller
I forget just where I got it though
I forget just where I got it though
Craig C.
Looking at the photo and if it is a 5/8 bolt, the head is 15/16 across the flats. The pulley looks to be 2.75" to 3.25" in diameter. The pulley size will affect the belt length, but finding a 3/8” belt to fit is not that much trouble. So getting the OEM size pulley is not that crucial.
Looking at the photo and if it is a 5/8 bolt, the head is 15/16 across the flats. The pulley looks to be 2.75" to 3.25" in diameter. The pulley size will affect the belt length, but finding a 3/8” belt to fit is not that much trouble. So getting the OEM size pulley is not that crucial.
Here's a better shot of it going back together.
The diameter of the pulley, where the belt rides is 2" and it is about 1.2" thick.
The bearing is held in place w/2 snap rings, 1 on each side/end and the bolt is indeed a 5/8"
The pulley on the end of the crank is 2.75"O.D.
The diameter of the pulley, where the belt rides is 2" and it is about 1.2" thick.
The bearing is held in place w/2 snap rings, 1 on each side/end and the bolt is indeed a 5/8"
The pulley on the end of the crank is 2.75"O.D.
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Charlie - thanks for posting the pic of the internals of a right angle gear box, lacking grease and noting it's why you need gear oil in these boxes. Nic mentioned it appeared there was not even grease behind the large gear. This supports even more of what I had said before. IH spec'd grease for the later versions, but there is no way for the grease to get to the outer bearing except by going thru the inner bearing. I guess as long as the box is filled up pretty well and run for awhile, the grease would heat up, somewhat liquify, and seep thru the inner bearing and into the area where the outer bearing is located. Gear oil would sure seem to make more sense and allow this to occur a lot sooner, rather than let the outer bearing somewhat starve and fail.
So the moral of the story is: Follow Charlie's FAQ 49 (even tho it's titled for a Tiller Gear Box).
And better yet, make sure you review the FAQs often - there are new ones added and maybe even some changes to the old ones, and even some you may have forgotten.
I ran across FAQ No. 40 How To Install Chains - which I hadn't seen before (or didn't remember). I knew all the stuff detailed here, and actually do it a little different.
I like my chains really tight on the tire, and I don't use bungees. My recommendation is to remove the tire (with the wheel) from the tractor. It's much easier to work this way and you won't be banging your knuckles and fingers on the inner fender parts or rearend. It makes it much easier to work the cross links into the treads until there is no slack, and tighten the side links - it will take several tightening to get them nice and tight. You won't have lose chains flopping around nicking the paint on the inner fender, and you won't end up with the chains twisting around on the tire and eventually falling off if you happen to spin your tires (which you will do). Once you have the chains on the tires and re-installed on the tractor, drive it around a little, attempt to spin the tires a little, and then see if the chains are still tight. If they are you did a heck of a job. If they aren't, well go back at it again.
I recommend you start this effort around Thanksgiving (you're late now) since most of us usually have some free Cub time then - and Practice Practice Practice!!!!
Part of the problem doing this is the tire sizes are not true, and the chains aren't either. You are basically custom fitting your chains to your tires. Once you do this half a dozen times or so you'll feel like you're an expert!!! And by the way, this is a lot more fun if you do it with a Cub friend, who happens to have different style chains, different tire sizes, or even a different brand of tires. You'll both feel like experts.
(under edit - I forgot to mention) Please do not cut off your excess side links. Some chain manufacturers instructions tell you to do this BUT PLEASE DON'T. Next time you attempt to install your chains you won't have these links which you need as a starting point. Also, don't let these links flop around. I like to take a little piece of stove pipe wire, or maybe a plastic tie wrap, and tie the loose links up snuggly to another side link. Usually this will keep them from clanging and banging on the inside fender, or chipping the paint off your nice wheel weights on the outside.
So the moral of the story is: Follow Charlie's FAQ 49 (even tho it's titled for a Tiller Gear Box).
And better yet, make sure you review the FAQs often - there are new ones added and maybe even some changes to the old ones, and even some you may have forgotten.
I ran across FAQ No. 40 How To Install Chains - which I hadn't seen before (or didn't remember). I knew all the stuff detailed here, and actually do it a little different.
I like my chains really tight on the tire, and I don't use bungees. My recommendation is to remove the tire (with the wheel) from the tractor. It's much easier to work this way and you won't be banging your knuckles and fingers on the inner fender parts or rearend. It makes it much easier to work the cross links into the treads until there is no slack, and tighten the side links - it will take several tightening to get them nice and tight. You won't have lose chains flopping around nicking the paint on the inner fender, and you won't end up with the chains twisting around on the tire and eventually falling off if you happen to spin your tires (which you will do). Once you have the chains on the tires and re-installed on the tractor, drive it around a little, attempt to spin the tires a little, and then see if the chains are still tight. If they are you did a heck of a job. If they aren't, well go back at it again.
I recommend you start this effort around Thanksgiving (you're late now) since most of us usually have some free Cub time then - and Practice Practice Practice!!!!
Part of the problem doing this is the tire sizes are not true, and the chains aren't either. You are basically custom fitting your chains to your tires. Once you do this half a dozen times or so you'll feel like you're an expert!!! And by the way, this is a lot more fun if you do it with a Cub friend, who happens to have different style chains, different tire sizes, or even a different brand of tires. You'll both feel like experts.
(under edit - I forgot to mention) Please do not cut off your excess side links. Some chain manufacturers instructions tell you to do this BUT PLEASE DON'T. Next time you attempt to install your chains you won't have these links which you need as a starting point. Also, don't let these links flop around. I like to take a little piece of stove pipe wire, or maybe a plastic tie wrap, and tie the loose links up snuggly to another side link. Usually this will keep them from clanging and banging on the inside fender, or chipping the paint off your nice wheel weights on the outside.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Tid bit, trivia, whatever.....
Standard English bolts are sized so that the wrench flats are 1.5X the diameter of the bolt.
Ex. 5/8" bolt = 10/16" (dia.) + 5/16" (1/2 dia) = 15/16" wrench
3/8" bolt = 6/16" (dia) + 3/16" (1/2 dia) = 9/16" wrench
Standard English bolts are sized so that the wrench flats are 1.5X the diameter of the bolt.
Ex. 5/8" bolt = 10/16" (dia.) + 5/16" (1/2 dia) = 15/16" wrench
3/8" bolt = 6/16" (dia) + 3/16" (1/2 dia) = 9/16" wrench
Hydro, wow, you must like extra work if you take your tires/wheels off! No way do I want to wrestle the tires/rims with wheel weight attached off and back on the hub... I prefer to use a floor jack to jack up the rear of the tractor so that the rear tires are 3" or so off of the ground/floor. Then I slide the chains under the tire from the rear and rotate it up and over the tire as I rotate the tire. Yes it can be a bit tight for the inner side of the chain but I've never had a problem. I do the linking of the chains at the rear of the tractor where there's the most room. Once I have the chains "linked" I work them into the tread edges and even them up. Then I tighten them up a link if possible and finally I add two bungees per tire on the outside of the wheel. I have no problem with using bungees to keep the chains extra tight.
HARRY - Would you please come and help me install the chains on my #2 snow mover like you describe?
I want to see you wrap 200# chains up onto tires and then maneuver wheels with 450 pounds of wheel weights back onto the axle bar..... total weight of chains, cast wheel, tire, and rim is just over 1000#.
I want to see you wrap 200# chains up onto tires and then maneuver wheels with 450 pounds of wheel weights back onto the axle bar..... total weight of chains, cast wheel, tire, and rim is just over 1000#.
Since I've got no Cubs running this year, anyone that wants to come help this weekend put the chains on the 1466 are more than welcome to lend a hand, LOL
I didn't look forward to it 45 years ago and even less now!
I didn't look forward to it 45 years ago and even less now!
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Kraig - hey, I only run with weights in the winter. I put the wheel weights on after the chains are installed and the tire/wheel is re-attached. I don't have to worry about knocking the tractor off the jack, support blocks, or what ever you use to hold it up and attempt to install chains. Just never liked doing it that way - in fact, I could never get the chains nice and tight. I left one step out of my method (not on purpose, more like I forgot). Once you have the chains installed nice and tight, make sure there is plenty of air in the tight, then bounce it up/down on the concrete several times to make sure the chains are nice and tight - if not, tighten them up some more before installing wheel back on the tractor.
Dennis - we're talking Cub Cadets here, with light weight floatation tires. If I recall your No. 2 snow mover is known by an initial like M or H.
Charlie - it's December, you're in the Tundra and haven't put your chains on yet!!!!!
Honestly, it got so it wasn't really fun to install my own chains. Only was fun when I got to help someone else - show'm how I liked to do it - get'm nice and tight and never have a problem with them coming off. If any of you guys were closer I'd be there to help out. I know most of ya would have a few tools in the cooler and we could be doing a lot a jaw-boning, starting off with happy days are hear again....
Dennis - we're talking Cub Cadets here, with light weight floatation tires. If I recall your No. 2 snow mover is known by an initial like M or H.
Charlie - it's December, you're in the Tundra and haven't put your chains on yet!!!!!
Honestly, it got so it wasn't really fun to install my own chains. Only was fun when I got to help someone else - show'm how I liked to do it - get'm nice and tight and never have a problem with them coming off. If any of you guys were closer I'd be there to help out. I know most of ya would have a few tools in the cooler and we could be doing a lot a jaw-boning, starting off with happy days are hear again....
Hydro, I center the floor jack under the differential. No danger of knocking it off as it's only lifted a few inches. It rocks nicely side to side but I take advantage of that, actually makes it easier to work on it. Weights stay on all year on mine.
kostendorf
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 19, 2012
- Messages
- 617
- displayname
- Keith Ostendorf
Harry, I can't put chains on like you either. The tires are filled and they are too heavy for me to pick up and if I tightened the chains first I'd never get the 75# weights on.
sblunier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2006
- Messages
- 4,829
- displayname
- Steve Blunier "Mr. Plow" (Central IL)
Jack up the rear end and work them on tight like Kraig suggests.....I never run crossed straps and always get tight chains, you just have to work them down onto the tire.
Put on 2 sets of 26x12x12 chains (on the 782 and 2072) in 90 min total Thanksgiving morning.......and I didn't have to remove 4 sets of weights and fluid filled 26" tires.....
Put on 2 sets of 26x12x12 chains (on the 782 and 2072) in 90 min total Thanksgiving morning.......and I didn't have to remove 4 sets of weights and fluid filled 26" tires.....
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Well, I wasn't going to get deeper into this but you guys want to keep talking about chains, so here goes.
Steve B - 90min. total for 2 sets on the Big-T Day = Nice Time (you've had practice).
Kraig - looking back at your pic, it looks like your side links are tight (bungees help) but I see one section of cross links seems to have slack. I believe you have 2 link chains and I wondered if you have you tried removing one set of the cross links so you could pull your last links closer together? It's hard to see how your chains are actually sitting on the tires since your pic is a little blurry and there is snow on the chains.
Keith O - I used to put 75#d'rs on myself, sit myself down on the floor, spread my legs on each side of the tire, like I was loving it - and heave that weight up hoping I'd align the mounting holes on the 1st try. I didn't want to rotate the weight since it would scratch the paint - usually got it about the 3rd try. Now, looking at your chains, the cross links look a little mis-aligned (not straight across the tire face). I think you need one more set of cross links if you could find one set for each side. If I recall correctly this will have the effective of shortening up your side links and also keep the side links riding higher onto the side wall of your tire. It's best to have the last twisted cross link fit right on the edge of the tire tread face, and the connector cross-link ride flat on the sidewall. This should also keep your side links riding on the highest point of the sidewall (where is sorta bulges out), so it doesn't actually touch the wheel itself and maybe even will be clear of your wheel weight.
Question is - is it really worth doing all this? Adding another cross link section to see if it helps? Basically custom fitting your chains? Well, if your tires are filled with fluid - you've got alot to man handle. I'd probably wouldn't. If your chains work good for you now, don't slip off, tire doesn't spin inside the chains (which I suspect it doesn't due to your fluid), it's probably not worth this additional fitting effort. This information is probably more helpful for the other guys lurking on here, having some trouble getting their chains installed tight, someone that had their chain come un-done, or got all twisted up cause it was loose.
For those of you out there using Bungee cords, they aren't the solution for poor fitting chains. They are ok to take up a little slack but the bungee needs to be pretty snug as well. They certainly won't make up for an incorrect chain size. I used to know the number of cross links in each cross link section for the common tires sizes. I think it was 9 or 10 cross links in each section for 23x8.5 tires, and 10 or 11 cross links per section for 23x10.5. I might be off by +/- 1 cross link, just don't recall. And the dang cross link dimension itself do vary but the side link dimension is pretty standard. And that sorta J shaped connector link it varies alot, but you get the general idea.
Back in my real chain days I used to make up my chains from old sets of car tire chains - when everyone stopped using chains on cars and there were lots of old chains hanging around. Most weren't wide enough so I'd just use the connectors and side links. When I did find sets wide enough they'd usually have 3 or 4 extra cross link sections that I could use to make up other sets. I mostly made 4 link sets (1 cross link section every 4 side links). They give you a bouncy ride but work - I like the way the chain gets pulled (bites) into the surface. The 2 link sets are probably best on non-hard surfaces like stone/gravel, etc. If you use them on concrete/asphalt you're riding on chain all the time, it marks up the surface of the concrete/asphalt, and the chains wear out faster - at least in my experience. Just some of my tidbits here. I expect others will want to comment now so lets hear it.
And for those of you just having a terrible time with your chains, well if you live in a town with a Volunteer Fire Dept, I hear they usually have some guys that are really good installing chains. If you stop by and ask, and then take your tires and set of chains down they may be able to really help you out.
Steve B - 90min. total for 2 sets on the Big-T Day = Nice Time (you've had practice).
Kraig - looking back at your pic, it looks like your side links are tight (bungees help) but I see one section of cross links seems to have slack. I believe you have 2 link chains and I wondered if you have you tried removing one set of the cross links so you could pull your last links closer together? It's hard to see how your chains are actually sitting on the tires since your pic is a little blurry and there is snow on the chains.
Keith O - I used to put 75#d'rs on myself, sit myself down on the floor, spread my legs on each side of the tire, like I was loving it - and heave that weight up hoping I'd align the mounting holes on the 1st try. I didn't want to rotate the weight since it would scratch the paint - usually got it about the 3rd try. Now, looking at your chains, the cross links look a little mis-aligned (not straight across the tire face). I think you need one more set of cross links if you could find one set for each side. If I recall correctly this will have the effective of shortening up your side links and also keep the side links riding higher onto the side wall of your tire. It's best to have the last twisted cross link fit right on the edge of the tire tread face, and the connector cross-link ride flat on the sidewall. This should also keep your side links riding on the highest point of the sidewall (where is sorta bulges out), so it doesn't actually touch the wheel itself and maybe even will be clear of your wheel weight.
Question is - is it really worth doing all this? Adding another cross link section to see if it helps? Basically custom fitting your chains? Well, if your tires are filled with fluid - you've got alot to man handle. I'd probably wouldn't. If your chains work good for you now, don't slip off, tire doesn't spin inside the chains (which I suspect it doesn't due to your fluid), it's probably not worth this additional fitting effort. This information is probably more helpful for the other guys lurking on here, having some trouble getting their chains installed tight, someone that had their chain come un-done, or got all twisted up cause it was loose.
For those of you out there using Bungee cords, they aren't the solution for poor fitting chains. They are ok to take up a little slack but the bungee needs to be pretty snug as well. They certainly won't make up for an incorrect chain size. I used to know the number of cross links in each cross link section for the common tires sizes. I think it was 9 or 10 cross links in each section for 23x8.5 tires, and 10 or 11 cross links per section for 23x10.5. I might be off by +/- 1 cross link, just don't recall. And the dang cross link dimension itself do vary but the side link dimension is pretty standard. And that sorta J shaped connector link it varies alot, but you get the general idea.
Back in my real chain days I used to make up my chains from old sets of car tire chains - when everyone stopped using chains on cars and there were lots of old chains hanging around. Most weren't wide enough so I'd just use the connectors and side links. When I did find sets wide enough they'd usually have 3 or 4 extra cross link sections that I could use to make up other sets. I mostly made 4 link sets (1 cross link section every 4 side links). They give you a bouncy ride but work - I like the way the chain gets pulled (bites) into the surface. The 2 link sets are probably best on non-hard surfaces like stone/gravel, etc. If you use them on concrete/asphalt you're riding on chain all the time, it marks up the surface of the concrete/asphalt, and the chains wear out faster - at least in my experience. Just some of my tidbits here. I expect others will want to comment now so lets hear it.
And for those of you just having a terrible time with your chains, well if you live in a town with a Volunteer Fire Dept, I hear they usually have some guys that are really good installing chains. If you stop by and ask, and then take your tires and set of chains down they may be able to really help you out.
mfrade
Well-known member
I'll add in how I set up my tractor for snow duty. I have a set of summer tires and then winter tires. The wider turfs come off for the winter and the narrow tires with double weights (inside and out) go on. I have no desire to lift all that weight - never mind trying to start a bolt in there too! So I lower my tractor just enough so the axle will pass through the weight opening and I can turn the axle to align 1 or 2 bolts to get started. I use a scissor type jack out of a chebby pickup with an adjustable wrench and it allows me very smooth and fine adjustment of height. The fronts get swapped for a setup of walk behind snow thrower tires mounted on the cub cadet wheels. Gives a good bit of traction and vastly improved over the standard turf tires.
Harry,
I like your chain method, only difference is that I keep a set of Turfs with Chains mounted in the shed next to the plow. The tires are fluid filled, so to facilitate easier changing I put axle studs in my tractor. Makes aligning the wheel hole and axle much much easier! I also developed the following method for making them tight..........deflate tire to .5psi, fit chains tightly, re-inflate tire to 5-7psi or so. The chains only get tighter with that method!
I like your chain method, only difference is that I keep a set of Turfs with Chains mounted in the shed next to the plow. The tires are fluid filled, so to facilitate easier changing I put axle studs in my tractor. Makes aligning the wheel hole and axle much much easier! I also developed the following method for making them tight..........deflate tire to .5psi, fit chains tightly, re-inflate tire to 5-7psi or so. The chains only get tighter with that method!
HARRY- The best piece of advice in your post is to make sure your chains PROPERLY fit your tires.
Me and another guy over on the "other site" who chains up a 6X6 $450,000 off-topic road grader out in Colorado both agree that it's a waste of time trying to get chains tight if they fit properly.
Yes, if you have fenders or some other part of your tractor close to where the chains can grab it you don't want them too loose. But on something with lots of space around the tires loose chains actually last many times longer because the wear is not localized in small areas. And if they fit properly, there's NO WAY they can come off. I've used tire chains for 40+ yrs like this and NEVER had one come off.
CHARLIE - Those 18.4X38 chains are even heavier than the ones I install. My suggestion, tie the chains onto the wheel thru a spoke. Start the tractor up and slowly pull forward and let the chain wrap around the tire. When both ends of the chain are behind the tractor you stop and latch them.
My little 12.4X38 & 13.6X38 chains are light enough I can set them over the tire and rotate the tire by hand to get them ready to connect. Both my sets of chains are 2-link chains, and big chain too, 5/16 or 3/8" twisted links.
I'm using the same solution Dad did for years about putting the chains on every year. I NEVER take them off!
Me and another guy over on the "other site" who chains up a 6X6 $450,000 off-topic road grader out in Colorado both agree that it's a waste of time trying to get chains tight if they fit properly.
Yes, if you have fenders or some other part of your tractor close to where the chains can grab it you don't want them too loose. But on something with lots of space around the tires loose chains actually last many times longer because the wear is not localized in small areas. And if they fit properly, there's NO WAY they can come off. I've used tire chains for 40+ yrs like this and NEVER had one come off.
CHARLIE - Those 18.4X38 chains are even heavier than the ones I install. My suggestion, tie the chains onto the wheel thru a spoke. Start the tractor up and slowly pull forward and let the chain wrap around the tire. When both ends of the chain are behind the tractor you stop and latch them.
My little 12.4X38 & 13.6X38 chains are light enough I can set them over the tire and rotate the tire by hand to get them ready to connect. Both my sets of chains are 2-link chains, and big chain too, 5/16 or 3/8" twisted links.
I'm using the same solution Dad did for years about putting the chains on every year. I NEVER take them off!
Hydro, that photo is about 10 years old and was taken with a film camera and scanned in which is why it's a bit blurry.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Dennis :
Totally agree with you(and your Dad)..I liked 'em a little loose, I felt it kept snow from packing in the treads. As long as they weren't hitting the sheet metal, they're good. I always tie wrapped the loose end. Since I quit mowing with it, I've left the chains on (2005)...
Totally agree with you(and your Dad)..I liked 'em a little loose, I felt it kept snow from packing in the treads. As long as they weren't hitting the sheet metal, they're good. I always tie wrapped the loose end. Since I quit mowing with it, I've left the chains on (2005)...
