Archive through December 11, 2009

[rpalmer]

Bjohnson, Those old cars have an accelerator pump that pushes the gas into the port when you pump the pedal. These Kohlers are strictly vacuum. But it's good that you found a way to start yours.

 

[fsnerd]

Richard Palmer (Rpalmer), beat me to it. I thought in the old cars, stepping on the pedal set the choke and squirted gas into the carb. so, it would not work on the Kohler.

playing with the choke is not working, maybe I flooded it. I will try again tomorrow. I think am going to buy the magnetic block heater.
other wise, I might get frustrated and try to heat it with the torch.

 

[bbrigham]

I did a better version of the clam shells. I think the ones I have look a little bigger that what these do. I think my 1450 is goin round fender for sure. I kinda like the clams...that and I already have them....

 

[sblunier]

Kendell,

I think we all agree that every K-Series has it's quirks (once you learn them, no big deal...but oh the learning curve sometimes

). Unfortunately, I think Frank will need to experiment to find a method his Kohler likes and use it.

Like I said before, I didn't want to discount your method, because it obviously works for your engines. I have been around a fairly wide variety of Cubs with K-series and 1/2 throttle full choke seems to be the most reliable method, BUT...I think many things (battery, SG condition, carb tuning, points condition, etc) play a factor in the mix. I won't presume that my method is the end all/be all, because I know that there are several "right answers" here

.

Frank,

Make 100% sure you are getting fuel and have good spark, make sure it has 10W-30 in it for winter, and then experiment with the methods discussed here to find one that proves most successful on your engine. Best of luck.

 

[bbrigham]

On the start-up procedures...I always had problems getting the 1450 to start till someone said the 14's like half throttle and full choke, since I started doing it that way she fires and runs right around three turns. Once running I slowly ease the choke in till it's full open then back the throttle down to bout quarter throttle and let her warm up a few minutes. Works perfect every time, even at 15°. The 301 in my 73 gets just above idle and full choke. He fires and runs on the first revolution then I back the choke down slow and let him run till warm. I can't believe that engine starts as easily as it does, it came from a 129 that I stripped for parts. Had a junk carb on it, insides were corroded so badly it never would have worked. When I changed the head gasket before I put it in the 73 the cylinder looked as close to new as it could have gotten. I'm thinkin the PO must have had it overhauled, the cross hatch pattern in the cylinder looked way to perfect to be done in a home garage, I think it was a machine job.

 

[lhinds]

Frank; I have 8 running cub cadets and only run 2 or 3 of them during cold weather, but they all start somewhat different. My 128 starts right up if i open throttle to a fast idle, Turk key and about the second revolution of the engine close choke all the way and it fires right up.It started that way yesterday, outside, 15 deg. The right timing and good ground system plays a major part in starting.

 

[wshytle]

Thanks for the reply Matt. I just went out and checked the tank and it is fine. My situation/question now is about the anode. I am using an old lawnmower blade and I clean it often. For some reason it's taking more time to get all crusty and it stays shiny as it was when I last used a grinder to clean it. I am using about 20 gallons and have added about a pound of TSP. I am putting a bit more amperage to it with a different charger; it's about 10 amps. It stayed on all night with parts being cleaned and the anode is still shiny this morning. The parts were "ready" and the old paint just jumped off. In the past and using less amps the same anode would crust up in a couple of hours.

Does the added amperage keep the anode clean?

 

[stanner]

Wayne,

The more surface area of electrodes, the better, the stuff you're trying to de-rust has to have a line of sight to the electrodes, too. I found it puzzling on the statement you were using TSP... All of the techniques I have referred to over the years use Washing Soda (Sodium Carbonate), and only a cup of it for a 55 gal drum of water.... More in not better in this case. which may be your issue..... Keep us posted, and sent pics!!

 

[mgonitzke]

Scott/Wayne-

I can't see how just a cup of washing soda would be enough for that amount of water. My tank had 30 gallons of water, 2 pounds of TSP, and some washing soda, too. It took a lot to get the solution to conduct electricity. More does seem to help, in my experience. Oh, and parts cleaned in a TSP solution will not flash rust as fast as ones cleaned in just a washing soda solution.

 

[wshytle]

Matt/Scott

First of all, I am embarrassed to admit I haven't figured out the pic thing yet. It's probably a good thing though; I have about a thousand I would post and yall would get tired.

I just put some more parts in the tank and they are bubbling like crazy. I assume this means I'm getting good conductivity. I also don't have a problem with flash rust; I take the parts, rinse them, and dry them quickly beside the wood stove.

I just changed the water in the tank and added the pound of TSP a couple of days ago. Maybe that's the reason the anode is staying clean and shiny. I would like to know how to tell if the water needs changing. I changed it this time because it just looked dirty and it was taking longer to cook the parts. I guess the TSP loses its ability to cunduct after a while.

 

[dfrisk]

BJOHNSON - Like Richard, my first car was a '70 NOVA w/307 V-8, little 2 bbl carb off a 350 V-8. Needless to say the automatic chokes back in those days were terrible. I drove it for 2 yrs in winter and had to start it pumping the gas pedal like You say. Finally I replaced the stock CI intake with an Edelbrock and hooked up a manual choke. Worked SO much better.

I had a '78 F-150 w/300-6 for many yrs. Auto-choke worked in it. One winter day Buddy & I drove about 100-120 miles in Zero degree weather on the Interstate, pulled off and stopped at the end of the exit ramp, engine was still on the fast idle cam and at half choke. I thought I was burning gas at a HUGE rate. I made a wind shield for the little Carter YF-1 carb, galvanized sheet metal shroud for the carb to block the cold air, also made a winter front like semi-tractors use in winter to block off cold air thru the radiator. Finally I could get 13-14 MPG from the old truck. Every truck I've owned since has had a win ter front. My PSD used to get 18-19 MPG in summer with summer blend fuel, straight #2 diesel. In winter I'd still get 17-18 mpg on winter blend fuel, which normally drops MPG's about 5-10%. I think the 10W-30 oil I ran in winter made a big difference. First few warm days in spring I'd get real close to 20 MPG before I'd switch to my 15W-40 summer oil. One thing I'll say about My PSD & diesel's in general, they get amazingly consistent MPG's compared to gas engines. It's the nature of the Beast!

Like when pushing snow in winter, I block off the whole radiator on my FARMALL's, try to get them up to operating temp. Tough to do on a Kohler. I did oil analysis one spring after blowing snow for about 8-10 hours one winter in a K241 I'd just rebuilt. BAD things happen with gas diluting the oil in air-cooled engines in winter. Also water condensing in the oil is worse in winter. Might not be a bad idea to change the engine oil more frequently if You use Your Cubbies a lot in winter.

 

[stanner]

Matt,

I've cooked a lot of parts, and the washing soda is the key. The water is the conductor, the soda just enables it.

Here is a site that I maintain that has some links on it
http://www.network54.com/Forum/501575/thread/1170712395/last-1170712395/Rust+Removal+Links

primarily, this site:
http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

 

[wshytle]

Scott-

I went to the electrolysis sight you posted and the guy suggests using stainless steel for the electrode. I'm now confused again for I have read elsewhere NOT to use stainless because of a toxic gas emitted or something of that nature.

What do you know about using stainless? Have you tried it?

Wayne

 

[mgonitzke]

Scott-

I've also cleaned a LOT of things with TSP...it works...

Edit:

Wayne-

DO NOT use stainless steel...you'll generate chromium compounds that can give you cancer and contaminate groundwater.

 

[fcurrier]

This is Wayne's electrolysis system:

I guess it's "team effort" time. Wayne emailed me the pics with a description that I have no clue of how to cut and paste, copy and paste, whatever .. no pasting from me. Wayne, the ball's in your court! Hi, Wilbur.

 

[rpalmer]

My question with electrolysis is why not use a steel drum? That way the container gives you good "line of sight".

 

[stanner]

Dang, that's a nice setup!!!

This is a outtake from that site:
"Do not use stainless steel! The results are a health hazard and illegal (more on that later)"

As for TSP, I did a little research, and according to what I read, TSP contains sodium phosphate, (washing soda) excerpt:

\By the end of the 20th century, many products that formerly contained TSP are now manufactured with TSP Substitutes, which consist mainly of sodium carbonate along with various admixtures of nonionic surfactants and a limited percentage of sodium phosphates

So I guess I stand more informed.

 

[wshytle]

Frank-

Thanks for putting the pics up. Maybe this will give me incentive to finish learning how to post em. I was almost there last time but I've been too busy cleaning parts.

This parts cleaner was made to last. I started with a smaller set-up and liked the results so I decided to go all out. The red is all steel and the black is 1/2" thick rubber I got from a worthless pick-up bed liner. It serves well in insulating and is strong enough to support any part I can fit in the drum. The positive post is the small upright on the right side and the electrode hangs right below. The center post is the neg. and I can hang four pieces using jumpers from this post to each piece.

If anyone sees any area needing improvement please let me know. I have had good service out of it and it is "cooking" all of the time.

Matt/Scott-

Apparently the guy that did that write-up doesn't know about the stainless steel. I've heard not to use it from several sources.

 

[stanner]

Richard,
You could use a steel drum, but it would eventually rust out and leak...

I use the same barrel pictured below, and use bed frames and rebar for electrode (free)!!

 

[jpatchett]

Richard,

I found this info a few years back on anodes (positive conection) for electrolysis, what to use and what not to use and why.

The iron anode, or positive electrode, should be considered to be expendable and can be expected to rust as a result primarily of the presence of molecular oxygen combining with the iron. It is possible to use high grade stainless steel as an anode to reduce this, although the chromium present in stainless steel may produce poisonous chromium compounds in the electrolyte as it erodes which are considered dangerous and which will be illegal to dispose of down the drain in many areas. It is a good idea to avoid galvanized steel too, as it is important that no zinc, nickel, copper or similar metals get into the solution, as otherwise some plating of the cathode may occur.

http://myweb.tiscali.co.uk/andyspatch/rust.htm

I use my DC welder, 42 volts works much faster that a 12v system.

Jim