• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through December 11, 2008

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mstetar

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2008
Messages
510
displayname
Matt (Diesel Creek)
Nick if I were you I would drive it! I love my cub but I dont baby it... it was BUILT TOUGH so I expect it to BE TOUGH!
animatedihbear.gif
 
Matt, that's the problem, the only thing I have for the original is the mower deck...Not that I care too much, but the neighbors will REALLY start to wonder when they see me out there trying to move snow with that. Not that anyone on this forum never tried that or anything. Nick
 
Hi, Kraig

My anecdotal evidence shows that the curved slot appeared sometime in the early 2x,xxx timeframe. Purely anecdotal!

Note also the "smooth" head side tin on the early K161 engines vs. the "ribbed" tin on later tractors. Changed sometime late in '61...

Note also the "thin gap" rear rims on tractors sn up to 4xxx or so vs. "wide gap" rear rims on all later 7hp tractors. The center on the early rims appears "bigger."

Here's an obscure one. I think early Original hoods are a sheet metal gage thicker than later ones. I have four digits with hoods here that seem thicker. Anybody find this too?
 
Hey guys.I need some professional cub help on this 127.No spark was because of dirty points.I've got spark now so thats ok.Now the battery is new and with a charger on the battery the starter gen is very slow to turn the engine(barley gets by the compression stroke).Remove the plug and its much quicker but I don't think its strong enough.How should it spin with spark plug in and out?Thanks in advance for any help.K.W.
 
Does anyone have an opinion on whether or not it is worth re-sleeving a block?
 
Denny,

Thanks.....and now it's a 1/4 scale 5288 with power steering and a super steer axle!!!!!
 
I can tell ya that #5814 doesn't have the steering slot...

111270.jpg


Craig C.-
Also anecdotally, I can tell you that it seemed as though the fenders on my early 1450 were thicker than a later 1450 I had at one point, so it wouldn't surpise me that it happened in the earlier tractors as well.
dunno.gif


Steve B-
Power steering AND Super Steer?

Come on man..... You should know better!!!

worthless.gif
 
Awww, I should have thought about the rear wheels... I have one of each on my CCO for some reason.

111273.jpg
 
Craig, thanks. Sounds like my first thought was the correct one, so much for second guessing myself.
bash.gif


Keith, my Original, K4K, came to me with one of each style rear rim, just like you have, only mine don't look as nice as yours.... I swapped them out for a matched set in better condition, off of one of my parts Cubs. Hmmm, perhaps we have each other's mate, wanna trade one rim?
dunno.gif
It'd save me the trouble of painting one rim anyway.
whistling.gif
 
<font color="119911"> Where can I get a new set of good ag lugz you guys?
ihrotate.gif
</font>
 
Tom S.
I have two K321 blocks thats been sleeved. One was a stock rebuild and the other one was modified the same way David Kirk did to his K301. Last one was done 4 years ago. I haven't had any problems with either motor.
 
Kraig, Keith's didn't look like that a few years ago. They looked like "poop"!
 
They didn't look that bad Jerry.

111277.jpg


Those front wheels are on the 100 now.
 
Even when that Original was in Moscow (Idaho) those rims didn't look bad.

111279.jpg


111280.jpg
 
Keith L, others,
To add to what Craig said, the front spindles changed from the pin on collars to the bolt and washer at S/N 10,333, and to my knowledge that is the only change that the parts manuals give a S/N break for. It was thought the front axle casting was changed from the thin to the thick casting at about the same time, however a TC-82, parts manual, Revision 6 dated 2-64, shows the part number for the front axle as 376 140 R1. The "R1" would seem to indicate the axle had not been changed or revised, but we know that is not true, just don't know when. It is thought the slot in the frame for the creeper handle was around the 11K S/N range, and the same parts manual only shows one P/N for the battery hold down, and it is the "angle iron" type rather than the wire type. So, unless more information, such as service bulletins that tell of a change, comes to lite, other than the spindle collars, everything is just a guess as to when things changed. It is generally agreed that an Original with an un-slotted dash pedestal, no creeper hole, spindles with collars and a thin axle, is an early tractor and usually found with a S/N from the first year of production, and usually from the first half of the year, but not always. Parts are easy to change, and they did break - thin axle for one, pedestal damage from battery acid, etc, so unless you have a complete history on a given tractor, it is hard to be certain 45 or so years later, what was or was not on it when it was built, but comparing the S/N and the features with others of the same range should give you a pretty good idea.
 
Paul, thanks for the info!

FWIW, my Original is a bit of a mongrel. It's S/N is 47282 and it doesn't have a slot in the pedestal but it does have the hole at the bottom. It has the collar style spindle cap on the right side and bolt on style on the left. The frame that it came with had the creeper hole but it had some torch damage from a PO so I acquired a replacement frame but it doesn't have the creeper hole. This Original will really confuse the next owner in 40 or so years who tries to figure out the history. Perhaps I should put the odd rear rims back on it.
roflol.gif


111282.jpg


111283.jpg


111284.jpg
 
Just for another data point, my Original #4861 came with narrow slot rims, no curved slot in the console, and no round hole in the rear base of the console. Also no creeper hole, and of course, front spindles with collars. Oh, and a heavy front axle.
 
To quote Paul Bell:
"To add to what Craig said, the front spindles changed from the pin on collars to the bolt and washer at S/N 10,333, and to my knowledge that is the only change that the parts manuals give a S/N break for."

I wonder how much it would cost to repop some of these spindles?

We've seen a lot of these sub-10,000 serial number tractors with the later style (replacement) spindle on them. The one I pictured last night on the trailer is one of them, and the spindles literally look like brand new on the wear surfaces, so they must have been replaced relatively recently.
 
Kraig for the record 8168 has two mis matched rims. no slot in ped and no creeper hole.All I have left of 3973 is the reduction housing. I found it in a field along with some of the transmission and one rear wheel with the weight. You might remember the three years I spent looking for another weight. Harry Bursell Also had just one for most of that time.
I had another 8--- numbered CCO before I moved and do remember that it had the lite axle with the pin on spendels. Was also a rope start at one time, Still had the stetor wire hanging out. I just didn't have room for everything on the trailer.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top