Archive through December 11, 2006

[jmacdonald]

Brian thanks for the heads up on the "U" bolt. I do envy all the excellant workmanship I see on this forum, and here I am scratching my head over a simple "U" bolt.
Thanks again.

 

[dfrisk]

Stan - Yes there is....I think there's instructions on testing in the hydro service manual. I know Wyatt & I tested His 169 and took pic's that MAYBE Kraig can post? (Thank-You in advance!)

 

[kmcconaughey]

Denny, is this the info for Stan?

Here's the info from "page 2-8"

 

[kmcconaughey]

This might also be helpful info.

 

[rbedell]

Stan:

Here ya go......Order this Shim Kit

 

[sblunier]

Chute Rotators:

Terry,

It's just a 3000# steel needle valve, but yes, it is acting as a flow control. It is necessary, otherwise at WOT the chute goes lock-to-lock in about a nanosecond!!!!

Slip clutches:

Dave's design is very well thought out and designed and accounts for the potential need for a slip clutch to prevent damage. I really doubt that any of these motors would strip the rack before stalling, but I applaud Dave for adding a slick little clutch, it can't hurt and is way cool.

My hyd. motor does not have the torque to strip the rack when the flow is throttled down to control the speed. The flow is restricted enough that it stalls easily. The 1/4" stop bolts are just safety precautions, similar to Dave's slip clutch.

Once again, Dave's slip clutch design and fabrication is excellent and tops out the cool-o-meter!!!!!

 

[jlang]

Hi guys, I thought you'd all get a chuckle out of this. Got my 122 out and drove it for the first time this year.

Always like the quiet way these old cubs start.

 

[gtatchell]

We here are a bit intrigued by so many of you guys wishing snow (& work for your CCs) on yourselves. We have seen on TV the reports of Blizzards & that must be tough. I’d just like a few inches of rain so my lawn will grow so I can mow it. We have just driven about 1200 Km out West for our 1st of 4 family Christmas times this year. I have never seen the country more dry & brown & bare, the sheep must be eating dirt.

Eric Nei, perhaps enough has been said about your starter, by men far more knowledgeable than me. But to try & put plain English,
1. That Bendix screw (the course pitch helix thread on your starter shaft) has to be absolutely clean & dry. Oil is the enemy here, it will only create drag.
2. As has been said, your Battery & all your terminals from Battery to Solenoid to Starter (& Earth) need to be good, as do the cables, & the contacts inside the Solenoid.
3. The object is that when you operate the Starter, the Starter motor spins real quick, taking that little cog wheel by surprise, & before it wakes up it has been raced along the screw & engaged in the Ring gear (eased in a bit by the rounding on the end of the teeth). Once your engine kicks & you release the Starter motor, the little cog wheel is spun back along the helix, helped by that light weight spring. The heavy spring (if you have one) at the end of the Starter motor shaft is just there to absorb shock.
4. All the best.

KentuckyKen Yeh, I can see the sea from here, so I have sea level air in my tires & they feel real heavy!!

 

[gtatchell]

Question - Has anyone ever measured the position of the Clutch/gearbox drive shaft in a 102? (as a starting point to set up my 'new' motor). I measure it as 123.5mm/4.86inches above the top of the frame bottom rail, and 123mm/4.84inches in from the inside of the Right side rail. Appreciate confirmation of me seeing with trifocals.

 

[mreed]

John, I like that bumper on your 122. Do you use that to push stuff or just because it looks good?

 

[thoffman]

Mike "R",
John uses it to push the Dear Johns outta' the way after he drags them offa'da road.

 

[dkirk]

Thanks guys for the kind words on the chute rotator. Nice to see others post their designs...some really neat ideas.

Steve, thanks for allowing me to peg the cool-o-meter...I don't deserve it. My post was actually abbreviated - the first embodyment had the sprocket spot welded to the adaptor. The motor has enough power to keep on truckin' at the end of travel and would gnaw its way around the ring gear. This happened last year, I got discouraged, and went back to the stock mechanical winder for the remainder of the season. Thoughts of an electical limit switch seemed to difficult, complicated, and prone to water contamination. The slip clutch came to mind and was easy to implement without remaking the adaptor. Just a little extra machining and thread tapping was required.

I may borrow your idea of carriage bolts in the end slots of the chute ring gear. Very clever! Saves the paint from getting chipped by the sprocket.

 

[kmoe]

Ken,

FWIW the tires on my 70 were filled with sea level air when I got it. They still weigh the same at 2500 ft. Maybe this summer I'll take them out to death valley and fill them with below sea level air

 

[sblunier]

Dave, I'm impressed...that little low amp motor must have some power!!!!! I noted that your lock to lock speed is 5 seconds. The hyd. set up could be less than 1 sec. if not throttled, and it's currently set for between 2 and 3 sec. I'm sure the extra speed, coupled with the "direct" drive of the hyd. gear motor (as opposed to the gear reduction in the electric motor) put my system in the "limited (but adequate) torque" category.

Your slip clutch design really is one of those simple, functional, elegant creations...again, nice work!!!

 

[digger]

Steve B,
Now that would be a cool video, seeing you go down the street flinging that snow back and forth, side to side at WOT!

 

[rbedell]

Graeme:

I assume, you want the original Kohler K-241 Demensions so you can line up a repower. Attached is a Kohler Drawing....

 

[stanner]

Graeme...
remember that the cub engine has a different pan, and the crank center to pan bottom may be different....

 

[rbedell]

Graeme & Scott:

Scott brings up a good point. However, the 118.2mm dimension would be correct for a Cub Cadet K-241. I compared that to my CC105.

The crankshaft height maybe different on larger model motors.

 

[kweaver]

Steve - it's the PSI that'll drive it past the stops not the flow. 100 GPM @ 1 PSI is still 1 PSI but 1 GPM @ 100 PSI is 100 pounds of force that the stops can't hold back. It's the GPM that gives it the speed and the PSI that gives it the torque.

Graeme - it was a joke son , I say a joke ... but your air is upside down so it doesn't count anyway. I feel for ya wearing tri-focs. 4 eye operations and bi-focals is killing me to see anything closer than my hand with out stretched arm.

I hope you guys running the wiper motors have good luck, everytime I play with one on the bench I burn'em up. Someone said they had a window motor- not enough torque in those things.

 

[stanner]

Regarding window motors, I will blow a fuse if i lock-rotor the motor for too long, I guess that is the safety valve. See my movie at this URL:

http://home.earthlink.net/~stanner427/cub/100_2252.MOV