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Archive through December 10, 2011
- Thread starter thenrie
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Steve B2, no real need for it on the auger, just the inside of the auger housing and most importantly the inside of the discharge chute.
KEN - I'd buy the pucks anyhow, they wear sooooo very long they're probably the factory pucks. I'd replace them too. They're totally trapped in their bore, really tight too. There is a good place between them under the rotor disc for junk to accumulate so you probably want to remove them. They're brittle and you normally break them to get them out if they arn't broken/cracked already.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Ken-
If you are just interested in replacing the O-ring and stopping the leak, part #3 in that picture can come out without taking the whole rear apart. It does help to have the rear out of a tractor. Unless the brake puck is cracked/broken/worn, I would leave it be. They have a much easier life in a hydro than a gear drive, so there could be quite a bit of life left.
If you are just interested in replacing the O-ring and stopping the leak, part #3 in that picture can come out without taking the whole rear apart. It does help to have the rear out of a tractor. Unless the brake puck is cracked/broken/worn, I would leave it be. They have a much easier life in a hydro than a gear drive, so there could be quite a bit of life left.
re oil
oil - on 1650 drove around yard a while and rechanged oil again - second oil change went black pretty fast - have no idea what oil was used maybe has never been changed - at least it read full on the dipstick before i bought this
third time seams to have cleared up any milky substance --- hopefully it not going to burn to much oil - as appears previous owner lacked this operation
it is amazing to me how people do not bother with something this simple and cheap on a yearly schedule
the person i bought this from lived on a private golf course in at least a million dollar home - paved circle drive fancy cars huge garage and doesn't bother with the oil on his tractor.
i just happened to be looking at this guys car for a accident claim and starting talking about cub cadet and that i owned several others - it was just sitting in his driveway - he was willing to start this up except battery was to low and it was to cold - but decided to take the chance anyhow
i am just glad everthing is complete and in good shape - i am going to change hydro fluid and filter next and fuel filter next - also has super sharp 50 inch deck with no rust issues
oil - on 1650 drove around yard a while and rechanged oil again - second oil change went black pretty fast - have no idea what oil was used maybe has never been changed - at least it read full on the dipstick before i bought this
third time seams to have cleared up any milky substance --- hopefully it not going to burn to much oil - as appears previous owner lacked this operation
it is amazing to me how people do not bother with something this simple and cheap on a yearly schedule
the person i bought this from lived on a private golf course in at least a million dollar home - paved circle drive fancy cars huge garage and doesn't bother with the oil on his tractor.
i just happened to be looking at this guys car for a accident claim and starting talking about cub cadet and that i owned several others - it was just sitting in his driveway - he was willing to start this up except battery was to low and it was to cold - but decided to take the chance anyhow
i am just glad everthing is complete and in good shape - i am going to change hydro fluid and filter next and fuel filter next - also has super sharp 50 inch deck with no rust issues
jchamberlin
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- 1,842
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- Farmville, North Carolina
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
George Corzine - If I can slip this past Kenny, before you change the oil again I would add the recommended amount of Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO), especially if you plan on storing it over the winter. Add the MMO, run the gasoline out of the tank, and leave it. Then change the oil again before you start it up (or soon after) next year.
I've seen MMO really clean up a crank case, although I'm not sure I would trust my "working oil" to MMO. I belong to the school of thought that additives aren't bad, but they're no replacement for clean oil; MMO helps get you to the point where the engine will sustain and maintain clean oil.
Just a thought.
I've seen MMO really clean up a crank case, although I'm not sure I would trust my "working oil" to MMO. I belong to the school of thought that additives aren't bad, but they're no replacement for clean oil; MMO helps get you to the point where the engine will sustain and maintain clean oil.
Just a thought.
yes your are correct i have used marvel mystery oil in the correct amount in my 106 and this stuff worked great --- i should have remembered this -- will add some to this one
thanks for bringing this to my attention
thanks for bringing this to my attention
Tried to search, but no luck. 1250 hydro valve leaking out the top of the housing, anyone have this before? I just picked up the 1250 to rob parts from for the 1450, but it is in too nice of shape to part out. The 1450 had something come apart in the hydro pump punching a little hole in the case. Lokks like the plow and tires are going on the 1250, no hydro lift
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Sean, gorgeous 100! To answer your question Im not aware of any of the cubs having hood stops or straps like a truck tailgate to keep the hood from rubbing when open, almost every cub Ive seen does it. I can only suggest a piece or two of felt to protect the paint, or making a hood strap that only lets it open so far. A chain bolted to a head stud for the heat shield on the engine then attached to the hood somehow may suffice nicely. Im sure theres others on here that have better solutions. The hood on my 149 doesnt open so thats one way of eliminating the problem lol.
Sean, WELCOME!
Nice job on your 100! Add friction washers between the hood and the grill. Then use nylock nuts and snug them down. The hood will stay put where you open it to, unless the engine is running then it might open all the way against the grill. Over time the friction washers will wear in and you'll have to tighten the nuts again. Or you could add some rubber edging to the leading edge of the hood. Or, years back someone posted info on a hood limit strap they designed. I'll have to see if I can find the info on it. Might take me a while to find it though... UNDER EDIT: On second thought, I seem to recall that the hood limit strap was for the wide frame/QL style hood with the fixed nose cone.
Nice job on your 100! Add friction washers between the hood and the grill. Then use nylock nuts and snug them down. The hood will stay put where you open it to, unless the engine is running then it might open all the way against the grill. Over time the friction washers will wear in and you'll have to tighten the nuts again. Or you could add some rubber edging to the leading edge of the hood. Or, years back someone posted info on a hood limit strap they designed. I'll have to see if I can find the info on it. Might take me a while to find it though... UNDER EDIT: On second thought, I seem to recall that the hood limit strap was for the wide frame/QL style hood with the fixed nose cone.
dclinansmith
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- Nov 10, 2004
- Messages
- 124
- displayname
- David Clinansmith
Ken Freeman, I posted my solution for removing a wet brake piston Sat. Oct.01 2011 at 9:58 PM. That worked for me.
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
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- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Ben L. Your check valves are getting worn out. In the FAQ section is a write up on how to rebuild them if you've the proper equipment and experience to do so. Personally though I'd swallow hard and purchase new. Through a Sauer Danfoss distributor they aren't that gosh awful expensive. Through a Cub Cadet dealer....
.
Sean B. Absolutely sweet!!!
Off to work. Everyone have a wonderful day.
Sean B. Absolutely sweet!!!
Off to work. Everyone have a wonderful day.
stanner
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- Oct 2, 2002
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- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Roger,
Either get a used head from one of the sponsors, or go to your local NAPA-type store and order a spark plug thread repair kit, a.k.a helicoil.. Follow the destructions, and you'll be mowing (or Blowing) in no time....
mpatterson
Well-known member
So i jacked up my 100 I bought this past weekend last night to check out the slight slop in the front end. Discovered the front wheel bearings are starting to go. So I have to get new ones for sure. They have the following number on the side of them: HEIM RR12-22-14AP
Anyone have a cross reference web site they go to for these? Was thinking of going to local bearing shop to get some Timken's or something along those lines. Worst case I will order them from one of the sponsors. Would rather not have to pay the extra to buy from Cub Cadet dealer. Any suggestions? Also, how much play is there supposed to be in the verticle shaft of the spindle? The centre pivot on the axle itself has a little play, but nothing serious at all. Think it just needs a good cleaning and some fresh grease. The ball joints for the end of the steering arms - best place to buy is sponsors for price and quality? They look to be the same (all four of them)? Anything else I should be changing when there, it seems to be in good shape though. Gonna have to put some new tires on it this year I think when it warms up in the Spring, these are cracking good.
You have any insight Sean on things that should or should not be done when going over a 100? Yours is look'n pretty good! Congrats!
Anyone have a cross reference web site they go to for these? Was thinking of going to local bearing shop to get some Timken's or something along those lines. Worst case I will order them from one of the sponsors. Would rather not have to pay the extra to buy from Cub Cadet dealer. Any suggestions? Also, how much play is there supposed to be in the verticle shaft of the spindle? The centre pivot on the axle itself has a little play, but nothing serious at all. Think it just needs a good cleaning and some fresh grease. The ball joints for the end of the steering arms - best place to buy is sponsors for price and quality? They look to be the same (all four of them)? Anything else I should be changing when there, it seems to be in good shape though. Gonna have to put some new tires on it this year I think when it warms up in the Spring, these are cracking good.
You have any insight Sean on things that should or should not be done when going over a 100? Yours is look'n pretty good! Congrats!
MIKE - re frt wheel bearings for CC's are sealed ball bearings. Timken doesn't make anything like that. I used to wear out a set of frt wheel bearings every 3-4 yrs when I blew snow with my 72, the weight of the QA-36 & constant soaking of water from melting snow did them in. Since I stopped blowing snow I haven't changed a wheel bearing on it in 15 yrs.
The sponsors should be able to fix you up with new bearings, last set of 4 I got for the 70 last summer was $16 EACH, but they were good bearings. And the HEIM Joint tie rod ends are 3/8" Fine thread, sponsors have them too. They're a "LIFE-TIME Part", meaning they'll last the life-time of YOU or your tractor, whichever is longer. I put a set on my 72 in about 1985 and they still have NO play at all.
You might want to replace the pivot pin, they take most of the wear from the cast iron axle, and use a big 5/8" bolt to pull the sides of the channel back together and remove all the slop of the axle. The vertical fit of the spindles in the axle is "Loose", You can add shim washers to tighten it up. On another forum they talk about putting thin thrust bearings between the bottom flange on the spindle and the axle to make their tractors steer easier. Might be something to look into.
SEAN - There's nothing on the older tractors to keep the hood from resting on the cast grill surround. I always put a waded up shop rag or ???? between the hood & grill.
The sponsors should be able to fix you up with new bearings, last set of 4 I got for the 70 last summer was $16 EACH, but they were good bearings. And the HEIM Joint tie rod ends are 3/8" Fine thread, sponsors have them too. They're a "LIFE-TIME Part", meaning they'll last the life-time of YOU or your tractor, whichever is longer. I put a set on my 72 in about 1985 and they still have NO play at all.
You might want to replace the pivot pin, they take most of the wear from the cast iron axle, and use a big 5/8" bolt to pull the sides of the channel back together and remove all the slop of the axle. The vertical fit of the spindles in the axle is "Loose", You can add shim washers to tighten it up. On another forum they talk about putting thin thrust bearings between the bottom flange on the spindle and the axle to make their tractors steer easier. Might be something to look into.
SEAN - There's nothing on the older tractors to keep the hood from resting on the cast grill surround. I always put a waded up shop rag or ???? between the hood & grill.
Hey Mike P.
I buy the ball joints from Fastenal, they are made by Tuthill,part no.412059.They are on page 10-192 if you want to look up the specs.They cost $4.43 with a company discount.I buy my front bearings from Napa,i will get the part no for them tonight when I get home.If you call and ask them for a flanged bearing 3/4 x 1 3/8 they should be able to find them.I believe they are around $14.
Sean B.
very nice 100!!
I buy the ball joints from Fastenal, they are made by Tuthill,part no.412059.They are on page 10-192 if you want to look up the specs.They cost $4.43 with a company discount.I buy my front bearings from Napa,i will get the part no for them tonight when I get home.If you call and ask them for a flanged bearing 3/4 x 1 3/8 they should be able to find them.I believe they are around $14.
Sean B.
very nice 100!!
