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Archive through December 10, 2006

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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I put shortcuts on my desktop for often used sites - thought the URL had got hosed for a second there. Can we get somebody to check on Charlie?? He may have broken his "nice" or at least used it all up.. Look Out !!
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Jim,
Go to a canvas repair shop. They will fix the tear for you. It cost me $20 to fix a mouse hole and replace the plastic windows.

Charlie,
I know salt water will eat rims. I didn't directly say that I had inner tubes. Although I did say "I connected the suction end to the inner tube". Then later I said "This would relieve the pressure from the hose connected to the inner tube." You're right Charlie, it is worth mentioning Do not put salt water in your tires without inner tubes. Anyways, the reason I had to pull the tires off the rims was to put the inner tubes in the ags. This way the salt water wouldn't eat the rims. Antifreeze would have only weighed about 56 lbs. Salt water weighs about 75 lbs. I wanted the extra 40 lbs so I decided to stay with the salt water. Later I plan on putting the turf tires on my second 147. The turf tires are only 3 years old.
 
Terry:
I helped replace a set of wheels and tires on a A/C CA a few years ago cause the wheels were rusted pretty bad. They had been loaded - standard chloride mix by a tire service. I always wondered whether the rusting was caused by the tires sweating because of the loading or because the chloride somehow migrated through the innertubes. Anyway - sure did make a believer out of me as far as really painting the heck out of the inside of the rims on loaded tires...
 
Electric Chute Rotator for QA 42-A Snowthrowers

Here’s a project started over a year ago that I’ve finally finished and have installed and operating. Credit for this idea goes to Todd Markle (Farmall Gray) who thought of this idea first and discovered the motor and sprocket. The electric wiper motor is available from www.surpluscenter.com and costs $18.95. It runs at 44 rpm, is reversible, continuous duty, and draws 1.5 amps at no load. Item number is 5-1367. A 12 tooth, #40 chain sprocket was purchased locally (Fleet Farm). The remainder of components were fabricated (motor mounting plate) or machined (sprocket hub).

Motor mounting dimensions were measured up and documented. A cardboard mockup of the mounting plate was then made.

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It was desired to make this motor drive mount in the same fashion as the stock, manual drive sprocket assembly. Next, steel plate was then cut, drilled, and bent to form the motor mounting plate.

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An adaptor was then turned on the lathe to form a shaft extension and to support the drive sprocket. In order to prevent the sprocket from eating into the slotted chute plate at the ends of the travel, a clutch needs to be devised. This consists of wave washers that press against the sprocket face, while allowing the sprocket freedom to rotate on the adaptor. At the end of rotational travel, the sprocket will slip on the adaptor as a function of the force that the wave washers exert. The amount of force, and thus slip torque, is adjusted by a bolt that threads into the adaptor. The components are shown below.

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The complete clutch-sprocket-adaptor appears as follows:

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The assembled motor assembly bolted right up to the snowthrower with plenty of clearance all around.

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Another view of the motor assembly shows how nicely this fits together.

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A double throw, intermittent-on toggle switch was mounted in an aluminum enclosure box and fitted to the hydraulic lift lever with clamps. This controls the direction in which the motor runs, and thus the direction that the chute rotates.

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Wiring was routed in flexible wire conduit from the motor to switchbox, then from switchbox to battery. The installation looks cleaner than the original mechanical rotator rod and bracket.

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I’m proud to say that it worked perfectly the first time out. 180 degrees of chute rotation (stop to stop) takes about 5 seconds. The initial guess at the slip torque adjustment seems about right. The complete rig looks like this from the side.

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I will eventually draw up and dimension the special parts and make these available in the FAQ (or wherever the moderators would like them to be placed).
 
The fluid is calcium chloride....The rusting is beacause the valve stem usally deteriorates and allows the fluid to seap out. If you look, usually it starts around the valve stem.
 
Dave, Job well done!! As far as posting the info on the FAQ, I say 'GET R DONE' (but who am I?)
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David,
Way cool!!!! I will have to make me one of them for next season.
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Thad,
Reading is a wonderful thing. ADD???
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I am trying to attach a snow thrower to my 125. Things were going well until I tried to bolt the bracket onto the implement lift bar. I installed the foot rest throught the hole, then found the the base of the implement arm is to thick to attach the upper "u" bolt. The bracket is the same dimentions as the bracket on my mod 70. I thought all these brackets were the same. Did they make longer brackets for later cubs like my 125? Thanks God any appreciable snowfall will wait until I get this mounted!
 
Dave,

Looks like you and I worked on the same problem this weekend, but from different angles.....

I built a hyd. chute rotator a few years ago when my thrower was used on my 149.

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Since then my 149 has become my loader tractor and the 782 has thrower duty now. Unfortunately, the easy "no modification" install on my 149 didn't work on the 782...hyd. motor hit the grill, so I had to redesign.

I ended up mounting the motor on the thrower housing with a welded tab and the 2 muffler clamps from the original design. This was fine, but it messed up my chute angles, left was into the grill and right was barely more than straight ahead. So, I cut the chute off of the collar/rack and, after re-centering, welded it back on, compensating for the offset in the gear location.

Rotation speed is controlled with a needle valve in one of the hyd. lines and is also adjustable. I found that at the low flows required to keep the speed reasonable gear stripping etc. was not an issue. A simple 1/4" carriage bolt and whizz nut in the last slot of the rack on each end is enough resistance to easily stall the hyd. motor preventing it from walking over the end.

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I like your method Dave, as it does not require a dual hyd tractor to convert to auto chute control. As you use it more you will realize that it was well worth the effort and will never go back to the manual rod!!!!! (I couldn't stand it for 15 min. on the 782!!!!!!)
 
Dave..

looks very similar to the one i put together in '04.. they work great, don't they!!

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James MacD -

The original U bolts were squared off so they fit around the casting. Hardware store U bolts are round and don't fit as nicely. Tighten it up as best you can and call it done...
 
I need to know the best way to get a starter ring gear off the flywheel.Thanks
 
Scott:
I've been holding onto a GM window lift motor to do the mod like you did. I must be looking in the wrong place in the archives (couldn't pare the responses down enough to find where you posted , but if I remember right you posted a bunch of pics..) Question is - is the orange coupler also a slip clutch? I plan on using the original drive sprocket setup - got a spare...hadn't thought about putting a slip clutch into the line..

We used to take ring gears off by heating the ring itself with an acetylene torch (big tip) Don't get it red hot, move the heat around the whole gear. When it's expanded enough, pry it off. If it's got a small chip out of a tooth or two, flip it over and put it back on.
 
Question...

On these electric motors for chute rotation, why would there be a need to put a slip clutch on the output shaft..?? Wouldn't the motor simply stall out..??
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what is the part # for cub cadet #901 white and iH #483 yellow for a 1966 cub cadet 122
and is that the right color and, cub Serial #144165
thanks thad
 
Thad,

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Sunday, December 10, 2006 - 08:06 pm:<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Check that post......
 
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