Archive through December 09, 2005

[pkordik]

Despite the little quirks (Hydro creep being #1), that my 1250 has it did really well plowing the 3-4" of nice powder that we got here in St. Louis. I did my drive and the neighbors on both sides of me. I got so ambitious, that I went over and plowed the neighbors big pile of snow out of their driveway. Those neighbors are Bosnian and piled all there snow in one huge pile, blocking 1/2 of the entrance to their double car driveway. I couldn't figure out why they did it that way, but it's gone now. I couldn't resist the temptation to push that big ol' pile around. Moves like that keep our family stocked with fresh vegetables from the neighbors all summer long. I will try to post a picture of my 1250 in it's afterglow. By the way, if you happen to notice the color on the blade seems strange, you have a keen eye. The blade is from a Bolens and has a custom built frame to make it work just like the Cubs. I do need to find out if a rubber edge on my blade is possible. I hit the uneven joints in my driveway and I come to a dead stop. The springs flex, but I still stop dead. Let me know if there is a source of this type of thing.

 

[rhenning]

William the 782D which uses a Kubota three cylinder drives the driveshaft from the front of the engine. Water pump goes to the rear, flywheel goes to the front so you get the right rotation. Roger

 

[digger]

Paul K,
Go here http://cubfaq.com/questions.html
Click on questions 31,33, and 45 and you find a fix.

On the rubber blade edge. Head down to your local grain elvator or concrete plant and ask them for some scraps of the belts they use to move material with. I've seen several guys use it and it works great and it's cheap, usually free.

 

[digger]

Ran up and saw Nick Graves this morning and had to take the van since the wife had the trailer!
Back up, open the doors and tell him to stuff that sucker in there and Ole Nick jumps right on it!
147 #3 for me. hehehe

(Message edited by cproctor on December 10, 2005)

 

[sblunier]

A couple fun in the snow pics....

After the first snow I took Steven for a sled ride on his new saucer sled...this year he's old enough for full speed runs and some "crack the whip"......he loved it!!!!

Did some more sledding today, but the deeper snow required some trail grooming with the blade in the 1/2 down position first!!!!

 

[dallen]

Steve, I bet that rates pretty high on the "cool dad" meter!

How wide is that blade now?

 

[bcook]

Steve: Neat blade set up! Also good to see a dad spend time with the 'young uns'! Sledding is one of the simplest of pleasures a kid can have!!

I have a question for all of the tinkerers/fabricators out there......

Has anyone changed the size of the bolts for the 'saucer skis' on the blades to...say...3/4"?

Reason I'm asking is: I modified a set, by cutting off the factory 1/2" bolt, and welding on a nut with a piece of 1/2" all thread. I made the all threads long enough so I could set the blade for 2" of clearance...I could only get 1" with the factory IH length bolts. (I did this so I could keep the blade from digging into the stones in the driveway) Well, that worked pretty good Thursday evening...until I must have hit something hidden, that didn't move too easily, and now the right side all thread is bent!!...hence, my question about the 3/4" bolts..AKA more girth...lol

Yes, the blade was set up to trip, and never seemed like it wanted to the whole time I was dealing with the snow...

 

[czuck]

Wild Bill,
Here is a mod I made for my stone drive way that works. I also moved & modified the spring to attach directly to the bracket that is bolted to the "armstrong lift". I can now adjust the plow so it floats.

 

[sblunier]

Blade is 58" wide......42" with the right and left sides of another 42" cut off and welded on. It's a blast in light snow, but can be just a bit much in real heavy wet stuff (but I have a nice 42" thrower for that anyway

)

 

[bcook]

Charlie: SWEET!!! That is awesome!

I have a couple of questions for you....

Are those the factory 'saucers'?

Did you use hollow tubing and cap the top, or solid rod?

Thanks for the pics

 

[czuck]

Wild Bill,
I used pipe (not sure what size, will check tomorrow). I made the saucers out of 1/8" steel (I think). I used an old bearing race and a solid piece of round stock and pressed them in a hydraulic press to get the saucer effect. I will gladly get all the dimensions for the items if you are interested. The yellow items in the picture are different width rings to allow setting at different hights. The smallest width ring works fairly well. Can't go too high or the blade won't go down level when angled the hardest. By the way, I was able to use the original hole to mount my homemade skids. Mounting bracket is angle with two gussets and a larger piece of pipe to support the adjustable skid.

If there is something specific that you want a photo of let me know. Will be glad to provide whatever info is needed.

 

[mlarubina]

looking for a little help. I pick up a 1650 thats been siting for a while. Got it running but will not go in reverse at all. Forward works fine. I put a good used relief that works in a 129 tractor i have, but still no reverse. any ideas?

 

[digger]

Mike L.
I've never had that problem arise, but the first thing I would do is get out in the driveway and wind it up and bang it forward and then reverse a few times and see if it starts to come around. If it does, you may just have a snotty blockage in one of the passages from settin.
You didn't say if you have checked/changed the Hytran and filter.
The after or before all that, I would check to make sure that all the linkages are in the right place and look to be doing the right thing when you move the hydro handle forward and reverse.
BTW, one good way to check relief valves is to just switch one for the other, that will tellya if one is bad or not.
I'm sure someone will chime in that knows more than I do.

 

[mlarubina]

digger- i did not change the the rear end oil just yet i will do that and then see whats happens. i did how ever let it run and get good and hot tried to bang it from forward and reverse but just managed to break the seat off the hinges and fall on my back side.

 

[digger]

Mike L.
I really hate to ask cause I think I know the answer.
Did you at least check the fluid level before you started this deal?
And make sure it had the right filter on it?
And make sure it had something besides 30 weight in it?

 

[sblunier]

Way to go Charlie...your advice just got him knocked on his a$$!!!

<font size="-2">(just a joke guys, nobody get pi$$ed)</font>

Mike,

Charlie pretty much has this one covered in his previous posts. Not too much to go wrong with a hydro. (did you change the right relief valve???...you didn't take the good FWD one out and replace it with another good FWD one from the 129 did you?...the swap sides trick is the best way to expose bad check valves.

Does it bahave the same way as your 129 in the FWD direction, or are there issues in FWD too???? Do a quick visual on the hydro linkage and make sure the lever actually moves the swash plate into reverse on the hydro.

(Message edited by sblunier on December 11, 2005)

 

[ksigler]

Ok, I rebuilt the carb on my 122 this past fall and used the tractor to do my fall clean up and everything worked fine. We had our first snowfall last week and I went to plow and couldn't keep the motor running, it would attempt to die and I would play with the choke and keep it going for a while, but it would still die eventually. I pulled the fuel line off of the carb and checked to make sure the fuel line wasn't clogged, I checked the needles and made sure they were clean, I pulled the bouwl off of the bottom and checked the float, everything seemed to be clean and doing what it is suppose to do, what am I missing? Since I can keep it running with the choke I am guessing it is not an electrical problem. I also tried to readjust the carb but no luck. Can someone give me an idea on what to try next?

 

[digger]

Steve B,
Maybe we can get Kraig to post that pic with John B., Shannon and a few others out in the driveway a few years ago doing the hydro test! LOL

Ken S,
It's a fuel starvation problem and or a leaky throttle shaft.
Anytime you have to hold the choke closed, your not gettin enough gas.
Check the slop in your throttle shaft, rebuild the carb and your problem should go away.

 

[mbounds]

Ken S: Remove the Main Fuel Needle. That is the loooong one from the top of the carburetor. When it happens to mine, I find that the holes in the loooong fuel needle (its hollow) are plugged with jellied gas. I generally use a spray can of carb cleaner (WalMart stuff is usually least costly & works well). I stick that little ole red carb cleaner snout to one of the lower holes of the Main Fuel needle and when it spritzes out of the middle and the upper holes, I then put the Main Fuel Needle back in the carb. Turn it in till it bump stops - DO NOT tighten it - then turn it out 2 turns per the Kohler service manual. Fine tuning is done from there. Betcha it fires right up and runs without the choke.

Myron B

 

[tbordeleau]

Quick question about the hyd lines to the lift valve on a 1450:

As I mentioned before on this forum, somebody seems to have hooked my hyd lines to the lift BACKWARD; the deck DROPS when I pull BACK on the lever, and vice versa.

Do the lines have a swivel nut where they screw into the valve body, or is it a rigid nut attached to the line? I don't want to break the connection if I need to disconnect the ram just to spin the whole hyd line.

As always, thanks!