Archive through December 08, 2013

[bjamison]

Took the 1650 out last evening and did a bit more plowing in the garden. Stopped just as it got dark. All went well, but I could hear what sounded like some metal binding either under the seat or behind it. I think it's coming from the bolts holding the lower part of the Brinly to the bottom 3 point hitch bracket. I've found manuals for the IH 3 point hitch and the Brinly plow, but can't find a manual for the Brinly hitch. Any one have one they can email me or point me to one online?

On another front, I had a near "set the Cub Cadet on fire and haul the scrap to the landfill and pick up a box store JD on the way home" moment when I tried to mount the front blade on the 1650.

It started a week ago with installing the wheel weights in the 1650. Not so easy. Disk brakes on the rear get in the way of the bolt access to secure the weighs to the rim - pain in the buttox!

Snow and ice storm brewing, so off with the moldboard plow and on with the front blade. Not so fast. Got to deal with the blade specific subframe. Rather than separate he subframe from the blade, I try to mount the blade and subframe to the tractor together. Figured this would be the simplest way. Not so easy. Subframe seems to mount to the front and mid-section of the tractor at same time. I got it to fit up, after my two boys helped me wrestle it. What a pain in the arse!

What am I doing wrong? Do you folks separate the subframe when mounting the front blade?

These IHCC's are heavy duty/premium tractors, but honestly, some of the design aspects of them, IMHO, leave something to be desired.

 

[jbaker]

QQ-Bill
I am able to mount the snow blade in about 4 minutes on my 1x9 tractors

 

[jharvey]

QQ Bill
Yes separate, makes it so much easier and the blade is easier to store the other 9-10 months of the year!

 

[drglinski]

Bill-

No no no no NEVER separate the subframe from the main frame on a CC blade. Total PITA to get it back together again. Last time I did it I had to use a floor jack to spread the ends of the subframe to go back on the main A frame. I would never have gotten it together if it were mounted on the Cub. Mounting a blade on my 147 takes about 4-5 min. as well. It takes longer to get the mower deck/mule drive off than putting the blade on. As far as the disc brakes getting in the way of the wheel weight bolts; not a problem here....maybe it's because I've had to put bolts/nuts on tighter places, I dunno. I usually jack up the rear end so I can spin the wheels and work the bolts on the inside of the wheel in the same spot (I just keep spinning the wheel to where it's easiest to tighten them.)

 

[dtanner]

Bill

If you back the wheels nuts off some it is easy to get a carriage bolt through the hole in the rim . btdt

 

[thoffman]

I think you guys need to define what is "Hard to do or difficult". Nuthin', I mean <u>NUTHIN'</u>" just jumps onto the tractor. There is <u>some</u> work involved to do make this stuff hang onto the machine. Heck, I've been attaching this stuff on the Ol' man's and my Cub Cadets since I was 12 years old.

 

[hydroharry]

Dennis - no I ain't making this stuff up as I go along. I had at least 2 broken main springs that I can recall. You can't hardly tell until you dis-assemble the clutch assembly, take the spring off, and it separates into 2 pieces. The drive shaft is usually wallowed where the teaser spring and thro-out bearing sits. Pretty amazing your driveshaft wasn't hardly worn. I'm not doubting you. In my case, the units I picked up were either sitting along time or well worn and abused, and I had to make sure the clutch assembly was in good shape.

Bill "Double Q" - never separate the sub-frame. Just to big a pain to re-attach. You just practice practice practice, taking the blade on and off. You'll get the hang of exactly how to do it. It might seem like you need 3 hands but you'll get to the point like the other guys mention - and have it on in about 4 minutes flat.

Frank - you got it's SISTER!!!! Does it have the over-sized rubber on it too?

 

[fcurrier]

Harry: 1450. Ags on the rear w/2 sets of IH weights. Wide fronts and not sure if it has 1" spindles. Hitch. Not running - yet. Too cold and windy yesterday to do much more than drool (which froze) over the loader itself. It's parked under cover. Storm coming in tomorrow but I put a deposit on it and hope to post pics of it here (at home) next weekend.
I have to agree with Jeff on his 128 VS 1200 comment.

 

[ljones]

The only clutch thing I've had to replace on my 66 122 is the fiber disc, the teaser spring is broken but everything else is 100% original. I can slip it in 3rd gear with the blade loaded but other than that it works pretty good. I'll might rebuild it when I have it out if I ever get a creeper.

 

[sblunier]

Bill J.

Helps to have a 2x4 to help hold up the blade near the QA hooks.

Position the blade under the tractor on the 2x4, then slide it forward and back until the "pickle forks" on the ends of the support arms just barely will stay on the foot rest cross shaft. Then lift the front straight up to the QA hooks and the 1/2" round bar ears on the blade should just barely clear the front of the QA hooks. A quick shove backwards locks everything in.

Welding some 1/4" key stock about 2" long to the top fork of the "pickle forks" helps make it really easy, as you have more room to slide fore and aft without dropping the blade off the foot rest support.

 

[sblunier]

My only complaint with gear drives is I want a 17T, 19T, and 21T SECOND gears.......all in the same trans!!!

Seems like a 4 or 5 speed would be MUCH more useful for what I would want a GD for......plowing.

In my case, I would rather give up some HP to the ground, in exchange for the "perfect speed" to keep my big plows moving......and I LOVE hyd lift and power steering......easy on a hydro

I have given some thought to a GD in my new project, but it will likely stay a hydro, with a 21hp Kubota!!!!

582 may eventually get dual hyd.lift......a fun plow toy.....

 

[dfrisk]

STEVE B. - Your Plow Day special sounds interesting. The SGT I've been kicking around building has changed. Basically, it's a International 340 urility with smaller tires frt & back. 40 HP C135, 5-spd plus T/A, live PTO (must have!)_ and live hyd. & power steering. Should run a 72 or 84 inch deck real nice.

Have to agree on the need for 2-3 second gears. Guess that's why MWSC makes over-drive reduction gears. They offer a 4-spd, but you give up reverse.

HARRY - I was just kidding when I said you were making stuff about GD's up.

I would think if the pressure spring in a GD CC broke, the clutch would slip real easy. I had the Bellville spring in the diaphram clutch of my '78 F150 break and it wouldn't release completely, and also wouldn't engage and lock-up at all, which is what I'd expect a GD CC to do with a broken pressure spring. Just my luck, '78 was the first year FMC used a diaphram clutch in pickups. They invented the Borg & Beck pressure plate which was a Long style PP with centrifugal pressure boosters similar to the Center-Force disphram clutch. But the Long style & Borg&Beck used 6,9, or 12 small compression springs, so if one broke, you had five, eight, or eleven to keep you going.

Just got in from the shop. Played at pushing two inches of snow off the drive. And there's two more inches on it now 30-40 minutes later. Think I'll wait till tomorrow AM to push any more.

BILL J. - The 2-3 times I mounted my 42 inch frt blade, I had the blade & mounting brackets attached. I used a ratchet strap to pull the blade back into place and a Irwin Kwik-Clamp to hold the arms that engage the rockshaft the proper width. My blade is not a Quik-Attach, goes on the 70 which is a nolt-on, but takes 2-3 minutes once I have the Kwik-Clamp & ratchet strap in place. Once it's on it AIN'T comin' off!

 

[jclazar]

You guys are killing me! A IH Cub Cadet from 1961 to 1981 were the best gear and hydro garden tractors made. Notice I said "garden". You guys are plowing huge, huge fields with these little beasts! Sheese, I think what IH Cub Cadet came up with was very, very well made and built. While good old John Deere was still in belt drive grade school, IH Cub Cadet were leading the way! Why not just up-grade to a bigger tractor, if these garden tractors don't quite fit the bill?

 

[sblunier]

John,

Don't worry, we certainly have not missed your point and agree with you!!!!........but, after owning a bunch of them over many years, some of us start to "push the limits" with custom stuff and testing out the limits of what IH designed with bigger tasks and higher HP.

100% correct, they are great, and do "big" tasks very well....well beyond their means, and IH should be commended for their designs. Since many of us also use big IH (vintage) equipment, we know what the next steps are and "could be", and how we would like to see them applied to our little machines (like more tillage gears, TA, etc.).......all in good fun, and never at the expense of their heritage and original intended purpose....

 

[thoffman]

Hmmm, 3 1/2" on the ground and still snowing. Maybe I should hook up the snow plow and the thrower tommorrow.

 

[wcompton]

Steve:
I've got a 16t, 17t, and 19t all in the same box with an overdrive gear.... I just need to finish building the thing! If I'm lucky it willbe ready for RPR this June.

 

[hydroharry]

Lucas Jones - where ya been hiddin' at??? Haven't seen ya post in a long time. You're pretty lucky in my view with your 122 clutch assembly but if she works fine for ya, then just keep on going. Dennis has been pretty lucky in my view, and so have some others on here. As I said, broken main spring is pretty rare but does happen. Broken teaser spring is probably most common, then the thro-out bearing, and then the lever. If the thro-out goes I believe that's what wallows the driveshaft. The bearing starts flopping back and forth and cuts into the shaft. I hardly ever replaced a clutch disc, just usually rotated it and drilled 3 new holes.

Frank - I can't find any comment by Jeff about a 128 vs 1200. If I had a choice and just had to pick one over the other, I just don't know which it'd be. I sure like those red stripe decals on the 128, and I like the side panel enclosure on the 1200 (and I'd have to have the lower aluminum grill housing to pop wheelies). Here's the pick I'd rather have to make, a 129 vs 1250. It'd be tough, but I'd go with the 129 because of the solid mount engine (and I do like the red stripe in the decal).

 

[fcurrier]

Harry: In the Sandbox. A 128 followed Tom home.

Hoping everyone has a good week. That's quite a storm the Westerner's are sending East.

We're slated for some snow and cold, but nothing treacherous.

 

[dfrisk]

WYATT - I forgot you had THREE secnd gears in your Wheatland! That thing will be a MONSTER!

HARRY - When most T/O bearings fail they lock-up or sieze. That's why the T/O lever & Drive shaft wears, but the bearing has been making noise for a long time before it siezes and turing hard on the lever. It shouldn't really wear on the drive shaft until it siezes, whch you will know immediately. When the T/O bearing in the 72 failed a couple yrs ago with the stiff red die spring, it actually spit out several of the balls in the bearing and the inner race went off-center and ended up touching the outer race locking up the driveshaft. The repair was getting rid of the red spring and going back to a new OEM spring, new teaser spring, T/O bearing of course, and since I welded the MWSC lever extension on a new T/O lever, I went back to the factory original T/O lever which is now 45 yrs old minus the 3-4 yrs I ran the MWSC setup, which I really didn't like on a working tractor anyhow.

The newer friction disks with friction mat'l bonded to the steel plate last forever, no need to drill three more holes to reuse them.

Yeah, back in my young & brainless days I'd abuse clutches. I burned up the clutch in a brand new Honda CL-70 Scrambler motorcycle in 500 miles. A 5 HP 72 cc engine just wasn't powerful enough to pop wheelies, but I kept trying. And paid for it too!, no warranty on that clutch. So I'm much easier on them since. In the 40+ yrs I've bought cars/trucks, I've had 13 vehicles, EIGHT have been manual trans, only 5 with auto's. And ALL the trucks & tractors, both ag & semi-tractors I've driven have all been manuals too. The only reason I buy auto trans vehicles is because my Wife prefers them, but she did drive the '88 Mustang GT 5.0L for NINE years & 100,000 miles with it's T-5 Borg-Warner 5-spd.

So it's not just CC's I prefer manual trans in, It's EVERYTHING. In all those manual trans cars/trucks, I've only ever replaced three clutches, my first car, that had a rough life before I bought it, and I was replacing the manual trans that had a bad bearing or synchro, and replaced a RAM HD aftermarkey clutch with an OEM clutch, which I later replaced with the RAM clutch I had taken out. And I replaced my first F150's clutch that the diaphram clutch spring broke on, and my current F250 which I replaced the dual mass flywheel & clutch around 250,000 miles, still looked like new, but the dual mass springs had compressed, very common problem that can cause BIG problems. NOT one of Ford's Better Ideas!

Four of the five auto equipped cars I've had transmission problems with, and actually all five needed work, but a leaky oil seal on the output shaft really wasn't the trans's fault, could have happened on a manual trans too if one had been available.

 

[akleyla]

Ok so I have a question . On the front of the CW-36 snow thrower there is a deflector plate. Does anyone have the size of this plate so I can make one ? Ive never had one on mine an I want to get one made before the next snow. Im guessing its 1/8th plate ? Ty ,Amy