Archive through December 08, 2008

[vthomley]

Keith, way to go. You got Kraig excited today. I agree with the flat fender look. I am currently in the very beginning stages of putting together a 124. I have 3 of those 125s that I may have to use parts from.

This is my favorite Flat Fender Cub. My nephew Nolan on my 122.

 

[jmeacham]

Luther, the picture is misleading. The teaser spring fits inside the spacer cuped end and the spring goes towards the clutch plate, not the throwout bearing.

 

[dfrisk]

Kenneth D. - Neat pic's from the Archives. I live SO Close to Madison and I've never bothered (did I mention I HATE downtown Madison?) to the Historical Society. Wife goes down there once or twice a year to research Her ancestors....I should tag along next time. Ahhhh to be farmin' 3 acres with a brand new CC 70, That's great!

RE: Spark plugs...I use Champions and don't have problems. Only plug related issues I have is with the old K181 in the 70 but "It has Issues". I think most plug problems are due to today's gasoline. It's not made for low compression point & condensor style (low voltage) ignition systems. And the 70 is the tractor that gets to burn up stale 2-stroke premix with stale no-lead gas. Everything else gets premium no-lead mixed with leaded race gas in about a 4:1 ratio. My Super H I push snow with started on the second revolution yesterday after sittng for about 5 months. It has 20-25 yr old Champion D-15Y's that are actually way too cold a plug for the way it gets run now. Once the engine warms up it runs fine. The M has 2 yr old D-18Y's which is a good heat range for the way it gets run. We have discussed that these Kohler engines need solid copper conductors in their plug wires. Carbon core suppression wires typically have too much resistance to fire the plugs consitently.

 

[dwshaffer]

I think I have a model 70 cubcadet it will not start new kill switch and new push buttonswitch. The Ampo meter works when I try to start it but reads neg when button is pushed normal? have no power to coil or starter lets just say anything past the button is lack of a better word dead need help girl friend wants to use this tractor. I want my 72 back from her need help.

 

[dtanner]

Frank, that reminds me... I gotta update my profile.It would be great if everybody did that so Cub guys like me so far away could see what what everyone has and what there doing. I went to an atv dealer today looking for an older atv to use there rear axle joints for a replacement drive shaft for the 129 loader. I could stand some input on this! i`am thinking no rag joint !!!
My old atv had a 10 mil universal (grease fitting>
in the joint. Tonight i`ll install the coil and start the 125 up. Need 3 hydro filters! These Cubs are some hard on the bank acc. LoL later Don T

 

[dmerkle]

Kenneth D.
I don't have any problems on todays gas as long as I don't use a champion plug. All but one has a Auto Lite spark plug in them. Son's hot rod 86 uses a NGK that is a colder spark plug.

Todays gas isn't the best. I went to a 30 day gas rule...Any gas(2 and 4 cycle gas) that is over 30 days old gets dump into one of my auto's gas tank. I buy from a name brand gas station that is busy....not the cheap stuff. I add Sta-Bil fuel stablizer to fuel. For normal use I use 87 octane and hard use I will use 89 octane. Leaded race fuel is too expensive.

 

[jmeinders]

Concerning a QA42A snow thrower pulley...can someone recommend a replacement pulley (cheaper than OEM) source?
I checked a couple local stores and could not find one for the narrow (3/8") belt. I believe I need a 4" diam, 3/16" key, 3/4" shaft, 3/8" belt and not diecast type, correct?
If I have read archives correctly, the A in the model # refers to A-belt as found on my PTO (1250) and the B is for larger belt such as x82 series. Thanks

 

[sstanton]

45 degrees this afternoon! I took the chance and took out the wiring harness, took off the old v/r and printed out the wiring diagram for the 106. Finally get a day off from work tomorrow! Which is good for them. It will be around 50 here tomorrow so I'm going to use the opportunity to inspect the wiring and grounds and rewire and install the next v/r. HOPEFULLY, I can get this all worked out! If not I think I will have to do a ton of swearing and perhaps come up with some new ones!!! LOL

 

[hwmiller]

Today in garage-looks like a 107 exploded in here.

Cub experts please review my pix and advise on needed correction to my mangling a poor unsuspecting tractor.
1.after trying(for more than hour) to fit the brinley assist spring/lift bar assy. on right side of cub,using all combos of spring attached,not attached,fish it thru back,from under,from front - I could not get bar with spring and attach. hardware to fit thru the space between frame and rear housing without interference. see pic of just lift bar w/o spring assist V

2. I have a factory(?) assist spring for NF, I'll try that. Somethings wrong ,it went on in like 10 minutes,only thing I'm not sure of is how I attached it at rear. see pic - it looked like the strongest way to attach rear bracket.

3. Wanted to attach the hydro valve release gizmo I got off E-splay,since had seat pan off figure e-z to get to -uh huh.can slide handle rod thru right side ,thru bracket hole,thru release plate,thru other bracket hole. but how do I drive roll pin thru middle of handle and release plate? there is NO room to get it started,if I did I could flat blade screwdriver on top and tap from outside of cover. My thought was to drill a 1/4 hole above it,insert thru hole,drive in place then use plastic/rubber plug for hole. Only other thing I can think of is to take out hydro pump completely and install release lever,then put pump back on.Seems a bit more labor than the drill hole-insert pin ideaIn pic what cant see is the TOP of the release lever,about 3/8 inch clearance to metal of tractor .Can not get pin in there to insert into lever and thru handle.

So LMK what ya think- specially the hydro release,that seems wacky but might be me.

 

[pbell]

Harry
There is no reason why a Brinly spring assist (it goes on the inside of the bar) connected to the lift bar, should not slid into place from the rear of the tractor.......provided the pivot block that attaches to the tractor lift arm is not installed on the bar. That has to be put on the bar after it is in place. It's not easy to do, but is easier to do if you take the lift arm "ratchet" off (half moon part with the notches in it that locks the lift arm in position) it give you a little more room to put the block on the bar and put a cotter key in the pin. That pivot block goes on the out side of the lift arm, between the lift arm and the inside of the frame rail. In one of your pictures that lift bar looks to be at an angle, like the front of it may be inside the lift arm ???????