Archive through December 08, 2006

[KevinX]

OK guys and gals, lets try this one more time!

We have rules, those rules will be followed with a LITTLE off topic stuff thrown in the mix from time to time, that's a given, grin

I/We WILL NOT let this forum turn the way of a couple other forums. You come here to get CORRECT and straight forward answers to your questions and concerns about Cub Cadet garden tractors, nothing more, nothing less.

Years ago all we had was this main board. Now we have off topic and way off topic sections to post away on just about anything you want.
Bryan has worked very hard over the years to make this site very easy to use and understand. And since the move I have not really had time to learn the ins and outs 100% yet. So lets take advantage of all the sub topic pages and make this what it really is! The greatest place on the web to get information on the repair and restoration of Cub Cadet garden tractors.

I don't want anyone to feel like we're being hard nosed here, We just want to keep the vision of what we have here grounded and to the point.

One last thing, We're not going to be doing the red letters on post that can't hit an enter key after every pic posted or when we feel that something belongs somewhere else.
We're just gonna nuke the post and move on.

We really do appreciate all our members and would just like everyone to review the FAQ's and Rules from time to time as they are and will be changing to meet the needs of the forum.

Charlie & Bryan

PS;
And I'll say it again! We have sponsors!
That reason is three fold,
1. To give you folks an easy way to find parts at a fair price and to get them as fast as possible.
2. To keep this site FREE to you so we don't have to go begging for money to pay for hosting and to pay Bryan for all he does.

3. No matter if all the sponsors leave for some reason, you will NEVER be asked for money to pay the bills.

 

[gcoleman]

10-4 Charlie n Bryan...

 

[gcoleman]

was there ever a 982D, or a 682D that was stock from the dealer?

 

[mgonitzke]

Glen C.-

No.

 

[kide]

Charlie:
Done..

Heading into the woods with the 129 and trailer - hope to cut a couple of weeks worth of wood (we're on our 29th season of heating the house - The cub has hauled almost all of that wood for 21 years)..

 

[thoffman]

Glen "C",
I think you will be seeing a 982"D" comming out of northern Illinois this spring!

 

[tpaynes]

K301 oil breather pads on a 1250. I have two pads, one is a small thick pad and the other is a little larger thinner pad. The picture in the manual just shows the small pad. I can't find where the larger one goes. I don't want interference with the breather reed. Is there a picture I don't know about?

 

[tlangley]

Can someone tell me how to change out the steering column on a 1961 Original. I just bought it and have the steering column in hand. I just don't want to start taking stuff apart if I don't need to. I know nothing about this Cub except that it starts right up and needs a new steering column so I can give it a test run. I know this is likely a stupid question, but how does the clutch work. I can't hange gears unless the engine is off. I just saw the Cub, thought it was "cool looking" and bought it. Hoping to use it in the garden. Help!!!!

}

 

[aschumacher]

Tom L. Charlie gonna smack ur fingers

. Go look at FAQ's at top of this page, another FAQ at that site too. Multi stuff about steering column. Some one else gonna help you with clutch when they look in.

 

[tlangley]

Allen, I checked all that stuff and didn't see what I was looking for. Hopefully "smacking" will not be necessary.

 

[rbedell]

Michael R:

Since you didn't mention which model you are working, generally speaking, you could test the starter by placing the (red) positive cable to the "A" terminal of the Starter/Generator with the (black) negative cable to chassis ground.

 

[glouderback]

Tom L.
First of all if you plan on doing the up keep & repair work on your Cub Original you need to do to the top of the page to Binder books and buy a service manual,parts catalog & the operators manual (3 set). They will be invaluable to you. Matter of fact they are required!!!!! On replacing the steering assembly. I will tell you 2 things. One it is a lengthy process that requires removal of the instrument panel not to mention a lot of other smaller stuff. Second - if you have bought a second hand steering assembly that has not been re-built you run the chance of replacing yours with one that may be in worse shape. Either re-build it or have it done before changing it. Most of the parts are still available from a Cub dealer. Plan on 80.00 or so bucks if your cores are re-buildable.
On the clutch---they are totally different from all the other Cub clutches and (to me) are harder to re-build. There are alot of wear points that have too be checked for the clutch to work as should.A few of the clutch parts are still available from the Cub dealer. I have some clutch parts left over from my project if that is permissiable to say.My email address is [email protected]
G.L.

 

[rcole]

I've been away from the forum for about 4 years, so it's good to be back. Back then I disassembled my worn-out, smoking old 106 which I never got around to repainting and reassembling. I'm "semi-retired" now and have relocated to West Virginia to be near a married daughter. I also have broadband now, which makes a world of difference downloading the Forum pages. I bought a complete running Cub 106 on Ebay for which I recently bought a snow blade (need one down here).

Anyway, the one problem with my Cub is a loose front end. The steering box seems fairly tight, but when the rods push the bellcrank at each front wheel, there seems to be lots of play there before the wheels start to turn. I checked the FAQ as well as the link from there to another FAQ showing repair procedures, but didn't see anything there. I'm sure this is a common problem and probably has been addressed before, but any help you can provide would be appreciated.

 

[mhaley]

Tom, I believe the clutch and brake are both on the left pedal. Partway down to clutch, all the way down to brake.

 

[digger]

Allen S.
There's really not that much about O's on either FAQ page. That's my fault. To be honest, I have not gotten around to putting anything up about them as they really don't interest me.
BUT!
If someone would like to put something together for the FAQ pages, I'd be more than happy to add it. hint hint hint!

The same goes for anything else that might help someone else. Even if it's in the FAQ's and you have a better idea, lay it on me and we'll get it added ASAP!

 

[gcoleman]

Why do chained turf tires get more traction that AG's, and AG's w/ chains???

 

[mhaley]

Glen, I think that chains generally work better in snow and especially ice than rubber.
The Cadet turf tires I've seen are quite square and would lay the chain down flat, the ag tires would only let a small part of the chain touch the ice.

 

[mhaley]

Thoughts on wheel weights:
When I hear "wheel weights", I usually think of the kind that the tire store guy gives you in five gallon buckets. Those who cast their own bullets know what I'm talking about. Lately, I've been thinking about getting a good size round cake pan, maybe 11" or so, and casting lead weights for garden tractors. Or maybe get a 13x9" cake pan, pour it full of lead, and mold a massive skid plate for the transaxle.

 

[bcorn]

Dang Kraig: That is one I missed all together a Y&W 782. I going to do some research on that if I can find it. Loved my 782 as I have stated many times. Would give my 1863 back plus some just to have it!!

I guess I stayed hidden to many years and didn't get out enough!!! LOL

Frank: you can relax I have been pops for many many years.

Pops

 

[aschumacher]

Mitch H. Go to the upper part of the screen and go into "search" section. Poke in 'wheel weights" and check the results. Think it was about 6 months ago a bunch of guys discussed home-made weights. Might give you some ideas.