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- May 9, 2008
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- Thurman Swafford
Hugh, thanks for the information. Does the 71 use the same round fenders used on the Originial and the the 100? I think there is a set in the classified section now.
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Archive through December 07, 2011
- Thread starter kmcconaughey
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
mhomrighausen
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 20, 2001
- Messages
- 3,133
- displayname
- Marlin Homrighausen
Brian J. Congratulations on getting your 1650 running!!! A little information on the "has forward but, no reverse"... CLICK HERE and scroll to page 16. Then put your mouse directly onto the sideways page and RIGHT click. Doing this will show the options available and one of them is to rotate the page. Click on the rotate page so that you won't have to turn your head sideways. Read through what is stated to do there and proceed in the order that the manual tells you.
If it is a stuck valve... Thoroughly CLEAN the area around the two check valves BEFORE removing either of them. Mark one of them and then try switching them. Now if you have reverse and no forward it is truly a sticking check valve and you will be able to clean it most of the time and free up the valve. I can't remember which is the valve for forward and which is reverse a.k.a. right or left side. To clean the valve you can use brake cleaner and spray it into the valve and be careful while doing this... take a small drill bit (backside... not the sharp side) and insert it into the bottom hole and push upward on the ball inside the valve. This should free up the sticking assembly. You may have to do this a few times to get the plunger working freely. Before re-installing the valve apply some Hy Tran to the valve and work it into the valve's plunger. Unless the valve is worn out or rusted this should get your 1650 up and running both directions.
Keep us posted.
Dakota's heater is once again working. (Plugged heater core again.) We received a dusting of snow last night. Off to work so everyone have a wonderful day... It's FRIDAY!!!
If it is a stuck valve... Thoroughly CLEAN the area around the two check valves BEFORE removing either of them. Mark one of them and then try switching them. Now if you have reverse and no forward it is truly a sticking check valve and you will be able to clean it most of the time and free up the valve. I can't remember which is the valve for forward and which is reverse a.k.a. right or left side. To clean the valve you can use brake cleaner and spray it into the valve and be careful while doing this... take a small drill bit (backside... not the sharp side) and insert it into the bottom hole and push upward on the ball inside the valve. This should free up the sticking assembly. You may have to do this a few times to get the plunger working freely. Before re-installing the valve apply some Hy Tran to the valve and work it into the valve's plunger. Unless the valve is worn out or rusted this should get your 1650 up and running both directions.
Keep us posted.
Dakota's heater is once again working. (Plugged heater core again.) We received a dusting of snow last night. Off to work so everyone have a wonderful day... It's FRIDAY!!!
Ok I`am a bit disappointed with the paint damage and measurements (paint stick) on my loader,The seat has a rip
but I have it back and the lines are a lot neater. I will have to do some paint touch up and add the decals to finally finish this 129.
but I have it back and the lines are a lot neater. I will have to do some paint touch up and add the decals to finally finish this 129.
Yea but his ammo box is droopin!!!!!
Charlie "Digger" Proctor
the only thing drooping would be you if you tried to lift that amo box. I got it from Frank C (mister 123) in Portage lake Maine. Its filled to the cover with melted car wheel weights. I think it is around 185 lbs. I think I have 80lbs cal and a set of 75 lbs plastic weight and the 25 lb IH cast weight(each rear wheel) and the amo box on the 129 for a counter weight.I think I will have a hyd angle blade cylinder for the 1512 coming in the mail.I hope the cold weather gets here soon so I can get some of my winter Cub work done.Tuesday it was 14 cel here and today was 10.
Thanks Frank
the only thing drooping would be you if you tried to lift that amo box. I got it from Frank C (mister 123) in Portage lake Maine. Its filled to the cover with melted car wheel weights. I think it is around 185 lbs. I think I have 80lbs cal and a set of 75 lbs plastic weight and the 25 lb IH cast weight(each rear wheel) and the amo box on the 129 for a counter weight.I think I will have a hyd angle blade cylinder for the 1512 coming in the mail.I hope the cold weather gets here soon so I can get some of my winter Cub work done.Tuesday it was 14 cel here and today was 10.
Thanks Frank
jchamberlin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 19, 2010
- Messages
- 1,842
- Location
- Farmville, North Carolina
- displayname
- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Don T - The loader looks awesome.
I feel for you regarding your "disappointments." Did the guy have his hand out for the money when you got there, or was he in any way apologetic? Just curious.
The fact that most work is done so shabbily now is half my motivation to do things myself. In my mind , there is no excuse for leaving the markings on the tube, and it would have been nice if he took responsibility for damage to the seat and knocked at least $100 off the price.
My thoughts.
I feel for you regarding your "disappointments." Did the guy have his hand out for the money when you got there, or was he in any way apologetic? Just curious.
The fact that most work is done so shabbily now is half my motivation to do things myself. In my mind , there is no excuse for leaving the markings on the tube, and it would have been nice if he took responsibility for damage to the seat and knocked at least $100 off the price.
My thoughts.
Don T-
The loader is looking just fine. It's going to be a chore getting those decals on with all of that steel there but I'm sure you'll do fine. You should have a blast this winter. Did you get the snow blower up and working?
The loader is looking just fine. It's going to be a chore getting those decals on with all of that steel there but I'm sure you'll do fine. You should have a blast this winter. Did you get the snow blower up and working?
Don T-
The loader is looking just fine. It's going to be a chore getting those decals on with all of that steel there but I'm sure you'll do fine. You should have a blast this winter. Did you get the snow blower up and working?
The loader is looking just fine. It's going to be a chore getting those decals on with all of that steel there but I'm sure you'll do fine. You should have a blast this winter. Did you get the snow blower up and working?
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2006
- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Is this Switzerland ? I hear an echo!
How well would a rear blade work on my 122 for snow?
thenrie
Well-known member
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2009
- Messages
- 58
- displayname
- Tony Henrie
Would it be possible for somebody to post pics of the carb linkage for a 682 with a KT17 Series 1 engine? I just picked up a 682 and discovered that some governor parts are missing. The parts breakdown in the manual doesn't show how all the linkage parts are installed. I could sure use a couple pictures to help me figure out what is missing and how it should look. I seem to be missing the governor gear and limiting pin...I think.
lpalma
Well-known member
Don T.
Looking good,Nice and neat.
It may be easier to take the hood off to put on your decals there...
Looking good,Nice and neat.
It may be easier to take the hood off to put on your decals there...
LUCAS - re rear blade for moving snow... That depends. If you try to move snow going forward your drive tires will always be trying to find traction on snow covered ground, you'll need chains and probably lots of weight. If you move snow in reverse you'll have better traction but speaking from personal experience it's a PAIN looking over your shoulder moving snow.
And the rear blades don't have as tall of moldboards so in more than a couple inches of snow you'll have snow running over the top of the blade.
I used to use my belly blade to move those little 1 to 2 inch snow falls and finally last winter used my first CC frt mounted blade and it worked fine on up to 3-4 inch snow falls. My driveway slopes and I have to push snow "downhill" and by the time I scraped 20-30 feet of snow into a windrow I had a LOT of snow to push with a CC. But it was still faster & easier than using my big tractor on those little snows.
For something like the "Storm of the Century" we had the first weekend of Feb last winter ONLY the BIG tractor would do. The snow drifted & packed in solid and even though I had bare patches of concrete showing there were drifts 3-4 feet tall I could walk over and barely leave foot prints. Took me 1-1/2 hours to clean the drive with my big tractor and normally it takes 1/2 to 3/4 hour. I had snow piles 8 feet tall. I don't think you can pile snow that high with a Cub Cadet.
And the rear blades don't have as tall of moldboards so in more than a couple inches of snow you'll have snow running over the top of the blade.
I used to use my belly blade to move those little 1 to 2 inch snow falls and finally last winter used my first CC frt mounted blade and it worked fine on up to 3-4 inch snow falls. My driveway slopes and I have to push snow "downhill" and by the time I scraped 20-30 feet of snow into a windrow I had a LOT of snow to push with a CC. But it was still faster & easier than using my big tractor on those little snows.
For something like the "Storm of the Century" we had the first weekend of Feb last winter ONLY the BIG tractor would do. The snow drifted & packed in solid and even though I had bare patches of concrete showing there were drifts 3-4 feet tall I could walk over and barely leave foot prints. Took me 1-1/2 hours to clean the drive with my big tractor and normally it takes 1/2 to 3/4 hour. I had snow piles 8 feet tall. I don't think you can pile snow that high with a Cub Cadet.
