Archive through December 06, 2006

[mhaley]

Now I'm thinking about going with wide frame for my first / possibly only cub. Found a 149 with hydro lift, extra rear wheels w/ chloride and chains, thrower and mower.
I hope the chloride wheels have tubes in them.

Let's see if I have this right:
1. WF front attachments fit everything from 1x9 thru quietline to x82.
2. NF and WF rear attachments interchange (tiller, etc)
3. I could put a KT17 in a 149 if I wanted to.
4. A k321 has a heavier piston and longer stroke than a k301, and therefore vibrates more.
4a. Do all k321s sold in 149 Cadets have balance shafts?
5. A 149 is less common and more useful than a 129 and should command a slight price premium.
6. A tractor with hydro lift is worth $200 more than one without, and I won't want to sell the hydro unless I have a spring assist to replace it.
7. If this 149 has good engine, steering, PTO, mower spindles and thrower bearings, it would be a very good buy at $600 or less. Perhaps a better buy than a $400 127 w/o the hydro lift or extra wheels?

 

[enei]

Good Morning,

More gremlins. A fuse fixed the lights. However, when I tried to start the tractor all I got was grinding noise? I checked and cleaned the positve end of the battery and battery fluid, but it didn't help. Any ideas? CCA on the battery is 190, but I don't know how new the battery is. I skimmed some of the recent postings about electrical, but wasn't something like this discussed recently?

Haven't yet addressed the throttle and hydro controls.

 

[dfrisk]

MITCH - I would say Your list is correct EXCEPT for #4. The K321 has a 3-1/2" bore while the K301 has 3-3/8" but the strokes are both 3-1/4". The piston in the K321 isn't THAT much heavier than the K301 but the crankshaft on the K321 IS counterweighted heavier than the K301.
And #4a, they're actually balance Gears driven off the timing gear on the crankshaft, they run on little 1/2" dia. stub shafts on needle roller bearings pressed into bosses cast into the crankcase, and are held on by snap rings which if reused tend to fly off, hit the throw of the crankshaft and put a brand new inspection window in Your crankcase. I have a BIG ziplock bag of balance gears if You need a couple sets.

 

[mbounds]

Eric N: I'd be for removing the starter and cleaning up the "Bendix"....Its cold weather and the old oil based lube is sticky...Remember to use dry teflon lube after cleaning to preclude the "bendix" from gumming up again....A battery with more CCA might also be helpful (after cleaning the starter).

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[kmcconaughey]

David S., you may have to cut the ends of the pin to get the axle out of the saddle then use a press to push the pin out of the axle. I recall someone else here having this same issue in the last few months and that is what they ended up doing. Heat can always help to free up stuck parts as does PB Blaster or other good quality penetrating oils.

 

[kmcconaughey]

-1°F here this morning burrrrr.

 

[bcorn]

Mitch: Sound very good to me (149) especially if the tractor is very clean!

Ken: I like your 104 very much. Question: Why the wheelie bar?

Kraig: Thanks for the comment on the lift handle!

Pops

 

[bcorn]

David: Just removed my axle pin on my 1000 tilted the front end up a few inches then soaked it with PB Blaster over a few days. Everytime I walked by it I would give it a squirt,

After a few days I took a BFH and stock bar and smacked both front and back sides of the pin. Once it moved I took it out the backside of the axle. Patience is a vitrue believe me!! If heat is used I would heat the pin only my 2 cents.

Pops

 

[digger]

I know it's on an off topic tractor, but it's a pretty cool setup for anyone wanting a loader.
http://www.or-bilt.com/

 

[enei]

Thanks Myron,

What's a 'Bendix?'