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Archive through December 04, 2010
- Thread starter dtanner
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Got my 122 running (it hasnt ran since july) rebuitlt the carb, new headgasket, rebuilt the crank case breather, replace the brake pads, put new axel seals and bushings in, and got done just in time for the christmas parade today, after that was over I disked some corn stalks turned my 122 off for a few minutes and tried to start it and it has a dead batt
the batt is brand new so the cub is not charging I polished all of the conections last night so it is not a bad connection.
Is there any way I can see if the regulator is bad or good?
Is there any way I can see if the regulator is bad or good?
I took my tester and grounded the a terminal with it and I get 14 volts so I guess the s/g is good so that leaves the regulator.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Norm-
I saw you ask that a few days ago and I got busy and forgot to respond. Anyway, I'm not sure. What it is for sure is a bagging deck...I use it with a bagger and it works great. There doesn't appear to be a mulch kit for it, but that doesn't mean you can't put a plug in the discharge and put some gator blades on it.
Lucas-
Ground the "F" terminal (NOT the "A" terminal) for no more than a few seconds, with your voltmeter connected across the battery. If you have 14+V there, and less when you are not grounding the "F" terminal, then I would say it is the regulator or the wiring in between.
I saw you ask that a few days ago and I got busy and forgot to respond. Anyway, I'm not sure. What it is for sure is a bagging deck...I use it with a bagger and it works great. There doesn't appear to be a mulch kit for it, but that doesn't mean you can't put a plug in the discharge and put some gator blades on it.
Lucas-
Ground the "F" terminal (NOT the "A" terminal) for no more than a few seconds, with your voltmeter connected across the battery. If you have 14+V there, and less when you are not grounding the "F" terminal, then I would say it is the regulator or the wiring in between.
Matt,
I conected my tester to my batt started it and got aout 12.5 volts grouned the f terminal and got the same, took the regulator cover off and messed with the contacts, and with my fingers grabed the uper set and squezed them togethter and got 14.5 to 15 volts at the batt, but if I let them go it quites charging.
If I adjust the upper contacts to where they stay closed will this fix the problem (without any side affects)?
I conected my tester to my batt started it and got aout 12.5 volts grouned the f terminal and got the same, took the regulator cover off and messed with the contacts, and with my fingers grabed the uper set and squezed them togethter and got 14.5 to 15 volts at the batt, but if I let them go it quites charging.
If I adjust the upper contacts to where they stay closed will this fix the problem (without any side affects)?
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Lucas-
I don't know which coil the 'upper' one is without studying a V/R and a wiring diagram for awhile, but do not make it so it stays shut...then it'll overcharge and cook the battery.
If you grounded the "F" terminal and there was no voltage increase at the battery, yet you got a voltage increase when you started screwing with the contacts in the regulator, which means you didn't ground the "F" terminal. Grounding the "F" terminal bypasses the regulator complely; if grounding the "F" terminal does nothing, that means there is no generator output. Before you said you grounded the "A" terminal and got 14V at the battery. That doesn't make any sense at all, unless someone was in the S/G and somehow reversed the terminals in the case, which I don't even think is possible.
I don't know which coil the 'upper' one is without studying a V/R and a wiring diagram for awhile, but do not make it so it stays shut...then it'll overcharge and cook the battery.
If you grounded the "F" terminal and there was no voltage increase at the battery, yet you got a voltage increase when you started screwing with the contacts in the regulator, which means you didn't ground the "F" terminal. Grounding the "F" terminal bypasses the regulator complely; if grounding the "F" terminal does nothing, that means there is no generator output. Before you said you grounded the "A" terminal and got 14V at the battery. That doesn't make any sense at all, unless someone was in the S/G and somehow reversed the terminals in the case, which I don't even think is possible.
bsouthwick
Member
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- Jun 1, 2009
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- Beth Southwick
We have a Cub Cadet 1650. Last winter we used a front blade to move snow. Once we put chains on the tires, it worked really well! <G> We are able to angle the blade, but we can't pick it up, except by hand. We have quick disconnect hydraulic on the front. Can this be used to lift the blade? Or is there another way to lift it?
I am the researcher for the family, but my husband and son actually do the work. So I will pass any suggestions on to them and any questions back to you!
Thanks for any help!
Beth
I am the researcher for the family, but my husband and son actually do the work. So I will pass any suggestions on to them and any questions back to you!
Thanks for any help!
Beth
Beth S.
Tell them to remove the tunnel cover and try lifting the blade.
Pay close attention to the rod/rock shaft that runs side to side in the frame, and the arm on the outside of the frame on the right side.
If the rockshaft moves and the outside lift arm doesn't, there's a spirol pin sheared on the rock shaft and or on the lift arm on the outside of the frame.
Tell them to remove the tunnel cover and try lifting the blade.
Pay close attention to the rod/rock shaft that runs side to side in the frame, and the arm on the outside of the frame on the right side.
If the rockshaft moves and the outside lift arm doesn't, there's a spirol pin sheared on the rock shaft and or on the lift arm on the outside of the frame.
Beth Southwick
Your blade should have a lift arm that connects to the blade and the lift down by your right foot. Could you post a picture of how you have the blade installed. That would help us to answer what you need to do. You could email me a picture if you want and I`ll post it for you.The front ports are there for the hydraulic angle option for the blade. lift should come off the lift for the deck by a adjustable bar. my email is in my profile. Later Don T
Your blade should have a lift arm that connects to the blade and the lift down by your right foot. Could you post a picture of how you have the blade installed. That would help us to answer what you need to do. You could email me a picture if you want and I`ll post it for you.The front ports are there for the hydraulic angle option for the blade. lift should come off the lift for the deck by a adjustable bar. my email is in my profile. Later Don T
Matt,
I didn't ground the a terminal and put my tester on the batt I put my + lead on my tester to the a terminal and put my - lead on the gen housing and got 14 volts.
I didn't ground the a terminal and put my tester on the batt I put my + lead on my tester to the a terminal and put my - lead on the gen housing and got 14 volts.
Another convert to the slush box club!
more oil changes going on here this am. I will finish them all today ! I think I might put the blade on my 149 in case we get only a dusting of snow and don`t need the 450 to blow it away , that away I get some seat time in on my 149.Have a GREAT DAY
Howdy guys, I got a cc 42 thrower yesterday, it had no lift rod. How long is the rod supposed to be ? I`m putting it on a 125, the lift handle has the bracket for the rod, so all I need is the length, thanks............Lyle
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