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Archive through December 03, 2013
- Thread starter dtanner
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Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
lpalma
Well-known member
That one on the left looks familiar, Troy...
glippert
Well-known member
Well, I thought I'd be able to figure out my latest problem on my own, but I guess I need help from you all. A couple weeks ago I went to start my 1450 to get it ready for snow duty with a front blade. It had been sitting for several weeks, which has never been a problem before, but this time the engine spun over but didn't fire until I let go of the key, then it backfired. I tried several more times, with the same results. Then on the final attempt, it wouldn't turn over at all, but the amp meter pegged hard the the discharge side (like a dead short somewhere). I should say that the last time I used this tractor, it started and ran just fine.
Someone told me that a loud backfire like that, could, after several times, possible break the connecting rod. But I turned the engine by hand and it went though the full compression cycle, so I presume the rod is fine.
I removed the starter solenoid to check it, and it shows only about 1 ohm from the small 12v terminal to the mounting bracket/case. Is that normal? I used jumper wires from a battery to the solenoid and it clicks the relay (also creates a big spark at the point of jumper contact).
Does anyone have any idea what might have happened to cause this problem? I'll figure out the "no start" problem later - right now I'm just trying to get it to turn over again.
One more thing: The safety/brake switch was bypassed by a previous owner, so that's been ruled out, too.
Thanks for any insight anyone may be able to share.
Someone told me that a loud backfire like that, could, after several times, possible break the connecting rod. But I turned the engine by hand and it went though the full compression cycle, so I presume the rod is fine.
I removed the starter solenoid to check it, and it shows only about 1 ohm from the small 12v terminal to the mounting bracket/case. Is that normal? I used jumper wires from a battery to the solenoid and it clicks the relay (also creates a big spark at the point of jumper contact).
Does anyone have any idea what might have happened to cause this problem? I'll figure out the "no start" problem later - right now I'm just trying to get it to turn over again.
One more thing: The safety/brake switch was bypassed by a previous owner, so that's been ruled out, too.
Thanks for any insight anyone may be able to share.
glippert
Well-known member
Charlie - A couple weeks ago, during discussion about the best way to mount a QA snow thrower, you told Melody to use a 4x4 under the mounting brackets. I can't believe I never thought of that before. Just like you said, 3 minutes plus belt install. This is the first time I've ever got the 782 set up for snow without wrenching my back. Thanks, man!
glippert
Well-known member
Thanks, Don. I'll give it a try tomorrow.
mhomrighausen
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- Sep 20, 2001
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- Marlin Homrighausen
Charlie P. I very strongly agree with what Greg L. just stated!!! I used a decorative brick that was handy and as sick and weak as I was that snowthrower went on easily. And I had the snowthrower on the back concrete and the Keepsake 1650 had to go uphill to drive into the mounting bracket.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
I have tubes in all the tires.. In fact it's time to replace them. it seems, they weep a bit.
I asked the original question about real life traction verse the small tread design for the future.
I asked the original question about real life traction verse the small tread design for the future.
tkhoffman
Well-known member
Tony S.
They sell this goop to put around the bead area on rims nowadays. It's like a softer RTV. I think Safety Seal is one brand of this stuff. It was made to compensate for the Pitting that occurs on the many Aluminum rims that are used on todays cars.
With your tire being mounted on that rim for years, I would think that getting it to reseat on the bead would be effortless. It's when they are new and the tire beads sag and almost touch each other that they are a pain.
I just took off and remounted my wheel barrow tire and it seated with almost no effort OR yeah, Tube it and forget it.
They sell this goop to put around the bead area on rims nowadays. It's like a softer RTV. I think Safety Seal is one brand of this stuff. It was made to compensate for the Pitting that occurs on the many Aluminum rims that are used on todays cars.
With your tire being mounted on that rim for years, I would think that getting it to reseat on the bead would be effortless. It's when they are new and the tire beads sag and almost touch each other that they are a pain.
I just took off and remounted my wheel barrow tire and it seated with almost no effort OR yeah, Tube it and forget it.
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Are we really going to get in this tube thing again?
For the record, I hate tubes. They get poked, spin in the rim, and are a PITA. I have 9 cubs now and the only 2 tires left with tubes are the only 2 tires that leak!
But, to each his own. I do use the bead sealer too. Keeps things nice and sealed and makes popping beads on a breeze.
For the record, I hate tubes. They get poked, spin in the rim, and are a PITA. I have 9 cubs now and the only 2 tires left with tubes are the only 2 tires that leak!
But, to each his own. I do use the bead sealer too. Keeps things nice and sealed and makes popping beads on a breeze.
Troy, nice collection!
proessler
Well-known member
Only about 150' vision this morning, foggy... ! My #1 winter front tire is Carlisle Xtrac, soft compound & deep tread, Xtrac are used on a number of new walk behind snow throwers/blowers. #2 is VRed's.
NIC - Come on BUDDY... Only reason you spin the rims inside the tires/tubes is because you're making TOO MUCH HP! Try sheet metal screws into the tire beads thru the rim flange, don't think they make "Bead-Loc's" in 12".
Had one of the frt tires on the 982 leaking down for the last year or two. It would show zero PSI in a month. Tubed them up several months ago and no more leaks.
SON had a slow leaker on one of the original 4.00/4.80X8 GY ribbed frts on the 70. We thru a new cheap imported inner tube in it a month ago, same brand as the tubes I put in the 982... and unfortunately, it's still leaking... slowly this time. We checked the old inner tube (Yes, IH used tube-type tires & tubes on CC's the first couple years) and the only leak we could find was the valve core. I suspect that's where the new tube is leaking too.
I also have a leaky frt tire on my #1 snow mover... yes, inner tube in it too... The other tire leaked years ago and I installed a new valve core, leak stopped... guess I'll install a new valve core in this tire and keep my fingers crossed. Valve cores in a tubeless tire valve stem can leak just as easily as an inner tube. The frt tires on my #1 snow mover I installed 32 yrs ago and have had NO flats other than these leaky valve cores, and this tractor has been on loader duty for the last 20 yrs.
Like I said a couple months ago when we beat this horse to death last time, something around TWO MILLION tires worth of experience has proven to me that inner tubes are the ONLY way to go on these slow speed tires. As a tubeless tire ages, they WILL leak. The rubber gets hard, stops sealing, and you have a flat.
Had one of the frt tires on the 982 leaking down for the last year or two. It would show zero PSI in a month. Tubed them up several months ago and no more leaks.
SON had a slow leaker on one of the original 4.00/4.80X8 GY ribbed frts on the 70. We thru a new cheap imported inner tube in it a month ago, same brand as the tubes I put in the 982... and unfortunately, it's still leaking... slowly this time. We checked the old inner tube (Yes, IH used tube-type tires & tubes on CC's the first couple years) and the only leak we could find was the valve core. I suspect that's where the new tube is leaking too.
I also have a leaky frt tire on my #1 snow mover... yes, inner tube in it too... The other tire leaked years ago and I installed a new valve core, leak stopped... guess I'll install a new valve core in this tire and keep my fingers crossed. Valve cores in a tubeless tire valve stem can leak just as easily as an inner tube. The frt tires on my #1 snow mover I installed 32 yrs ago and have had NO flats other than these leaky valve cores, and this tractor has been on loader duty for the last 20 yrs.
Like I said a couple months ago when we beat this horse to death last time, something around TWO MILLION tires worth of experience has proven to me that inner tubes are the ONLY way to go on these slow speed tires. As a tubeless tire ages, they WILL leak. The rubber gets hard, stops sealing, and you have a flat.
Thanks Dennis, I think I'll go with the tube. My O had tubes and they held for over 30 years.
Now I've never installed a tube except on a bicycle. Do you just pull the shrader out of the valve stem, break the beads and feed the tube in or do you have to pull half of the tire off of the rim and how do you break the beads? I tried all kinds of prying to get them loose and got nowhere
Now I've never installed a tube except on a bicycle. Do you just pull the shrader out of the valve stem, break the beads and feed the tube in or do you have to pull half of the tire off of the rim and how do you break the beads? I tried all kinds of prying to get them loose and got nowhere
TONY - Yes, one side of the tire bead has to come up over the bead of the rim to remove the old tube and install the new tube.
Bicycle tire tools would probably work, and some people have used big flat blade screw drivers, but "tire spoons" are the best tool for the job. But like most good tools, are expensive, and hard to find. Dad actually made my tire spoons from some 3/4" dia. round stainless steel bars he had. Used his acetylene torch to heat the ends of the bars and hammered them flat, then ground to shape like his pair of spoons. I'd looked for a pair for over a year locally, I didn't want to pay the asking price on various websites that handled tire tools.
I can't say that I've even seen tire spoons in tire shops in the last 20+ yrs. Even the tire shop that dismounted & re-mounted a pair of rear tractor tires for me 2-1/2 yrs ago used a tire machine! But their field service truc probnbly had some.
One vaulable piece of equipment you'll need is the valve stem "Fishing tool", it screws on the end of the valve stem like a valve cap through the valve stem hole in the rim and you pull the valve stem into the hole with the flexible cable. And there's a correct and wrong way to install the inner tube in the tire. The valve stem on the tube is not centered in the ID of the tube, it has to be on the side of the tire that the valve stem hole is on, typically the outside of a CC frt wheel. Slightly inflate the tube before attaching the fishing tool and pushing the tube into the tire on the rim. Then just lever the tire bead back over the bead of the rim being careful to not pinch the tube with the tire spoons. A valve core removal tool is also handy to have... and cheap.
The bead of the tire should be loose from the bead of the rim, just push it down with one hand, slide the tire spoon between the rim & tire and pry, make sure the opposite side of the tire starts down into the depression or drop center of the rim, then insert the other tire spoon right next to where the tire bead touchs the edge of the flange on the rim, and pry, remove the first spoon, insert it on the other side of the second spoon, and pry. Once you're about half way around the wheel, the bead will pop off the wheel.
Bicycle tire tools would probably work, and some people have used big flat blade screw drivers, but "tire spoons" are the best tool for the job. But like most good tools, are expensive, and hard to find. Dad actually made my tire spoons from some 3/4" dia. round stainless steel bars he had. Used his acetylene torch to heat the ends of the bars and hammered them flat, then ground to shape like his pair of spoons. I'd looked for a pair for over a year locally, I didn't want to pay the asking price on various websites that handled tire tools.
I can't say that I've even seen tire spoons in tire shops in the last 20+ yrs. Even the tire shop that dismounted & re-mounted a pair of rear tractor tires for me 2-1/2 yrs ago used a tire machine! But their field service truc probnbly had some.
One vaulable piece of equipment you'll need is the valve stem "Fishing tool", it screws on the end of the valve stem like a valve cap through the valve stem hole in the rim and you pull the valve stem into the hole with the flexible cable. And there's a correct and wrong way to install the inner tube in the tire. The valve stem on the tube is not centered in the ID of the tube, it has to be on the side of the tire that the valve stem hole is on, typically the outside of a CC frt wheel. Slightly inflate the tube before attaching the fishing tool and pushing the tube into the tire on the rim. Then just lever the tire bead back over the bead of the rim being careful to not pinch the tube with the tire spoons. A valve core removal tool is also handy to have... and cheap.
The bead of the tire should be loose from the bead of the rim, just push it down with one hand, slide the tire spoon between the rim & tire and pry, make sure the opposite side of the tire starts down into the depression or drop center of the rim, then insert the other tire spoon right next to where the tire bead touchs the edge of the flange on the rim, and pry, remove the first spoon, insert it on the other side of the second spoon, and pry. Once you're about half way around the wheel, the bead will pop off the wheel.
nbextermueller
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 18, 2007
- Messages
- 909
- displayname
- Nic Bextermueller
Dennis,
I'm not sure how things work up there in the snow buried north. But here in the lower river valley. There is NO SUCH THING as too much horsepower!
Kidding of course. I know you and your SON have been hooked on HP for alot longer than me...
I'm not sure how things work up there in the snow buried north. But here in the lower river valley. There is NO SUCH THING as too much horsepower!
Kidding of course. I know you and your SON have been hooked on HP for alot longer than me...
hydroharry
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2007
- Messages
- 4,468
- displayname
- Harry Bursell
Dennis - I must have missed that discussion a month or so ago, on tubes. I've had a few in the tires of tractors I purchased, and they always caused me problems. I almost always just removed the tube and cleaned the inner edge of the rim (gets rusty sometimes) and cleaned up the bead area of the tire, and got them to set beads without leaking. In all my tires and tire changes I only ever had one I couldn't get to take a bead, and I just used some 2 part expoxy stuff and glued that sucker to the rim, and it worked.
Now, your tire spoons would have been a great help. I used old worn screw drivers, BA Knuckle Busters, crow bars, flat steel, just about anything and everything I could get some leverage with on FRONT tires - getting them on or off. I used my size 11's with 220# sometimes (jumping up and down about 20-30 times) and sometimes 2lb sledge hammers to break the XXX bead on those front tires. Never really had much issue with the rears. They go on and off pretty straight forward, and also set beads without leaking all the time.
Troy - nice collection there. That one sweeper looks nearly new. The No. 3 cart is an odd one (might even be off topic) but there are a few around.
Now, your tire spoons would have been a great help. I used old worn screw drivers, BA Knuckle Busters, crow bars, flat steel, just about anything and everything I could get some leverage with on FRONT tires - getting them on or off. I used my size 11's with 220# sometimes (jumping up and down about 20-30 times) and sometimes 2lb sledge hammers to break the XXX bead on those front tires. Never really had much issue with the rears. They go on and off pretty straight forward, and also set beads without leaking all the time.
Troy - nice collection there. That one sweeper looks nearly new. The No. 3 cart is an odd one (might even be off topic) but there are a few around.
Guys I use my loader to break the tire off the rims now. But a bumper jack can be used under the trailer hitch of a truck or car works great. I have done that many times. I do have spoons and all the other tools to make the tire repair job easier . I have used my spoons many times and have two sets. Two spoons are not enuf sometimes and the third spoon makes the job go faster.
