i dont really want to part it out, but the cost could be a factor. i know kohler engines arent cheap to rebuild. might cost 400 bucks and for me, a weeks pay is 520 bucks. so 400 bucks is a significant amount of money. it is indeed an electric lift tractor, but i dont know if it works. i was told it works, but i was also told the engine was rebuilt. i dont know what it would cost to do the whole project. i seem to have most of the parts. the start generator, the rectifier, the mufler, and all sheet metal is all there. so its complete but has seen better days.
-
This community needs YOUR help today!
With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
We need more Supporting Members today.Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.
Why Join?
- Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
- Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
- Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!
This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:
Archive through December 02, 2010
- Thread starter jbaker
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Andrew-
Fix it up if at all possible. There's never going to be another one, and there's too many people tearing these tractors apart as it is. It probably wouldn't be hard to find used parts to replace the broken parts in the engine.
Fix it up if at all possible. There's never going to be another one, and there's too many people tearing these tractors apart as it is. It probably wouldn't be hard to find used parts to replace the broken parts in the engine.
what about these stens/rotary rebuild kits??
We don't do links to live auctions on here Andrew!
Charlie
if i do this i need to do a good job but on the cheap, i have a son on the way. this would be a good toy for him when he gets older though. he would experiance 2 great american lawn and garden tractors, and they are kind of dying breed. okay, he might get stuck with the greenie, lol. the greenie is a good machine too, i like them both. so OEM parts are probably going to be out of my price range. these are good tractors, but this one has been run ragged and then some. as i said everything is there but it would require a complete resto to bring it back to its form glory. i dont even know how the drivetrain is. i know these tractors have some of the best drivetrains ever created for lawn and garden, so im not too worried about that. but it would be nice to know if it works.}
We don't do links to live auctions on here Andrew!
Charlie
if i do this i need to do a good job but on the cheap, i have a son on the way. this would be a good toy for him when he gets older though. he would experiance 2 great american lawn and garden tractors, and they are kind of dying breed. okay, he might get stuck with the greenie, lol. the greenie is a good machine too, i like them both. so OEM parts are probably going to be out of my price range. these are good tractors, but this one has been run ragged and then some. as i said everything is there but it would require a complete resto to bring it back to its form glory. i dont even know how the drivetrain is. i know these tractors have some of the best drivetrains ever created for lawn and garden, so im not too worried about that. but it would be nice to know if it works.}
wish i could get off as cheap as i did when i got the new engine for the greenie. i bought a k301 a couple years back and i paid 150 bucks for a very low time shortblock. it has served me very well. i know that deals like that happen once in a lifetime. it runs like a new engine.
The rear I.H. blade I purchased from MR.ROB DEHLI,arrivied today via UPS.I can't figure out which CC to try it on! The 100 or 102.Anyway I wouldn't have found it without this forum!!!
THANKS CHARLIE,
THANKS ROB
Rodney S.
I hope you have lots of weight/ag tires or chains on turfs. Your gonna need'um.
I hope you have lots of weight/ag tires or chains on turfs. Your gonna need'um.
Andrew-
It sounds like you need to sit down and take a deep breath. You don't have to fix everything at one time therefore you can spread the cost over several weeks like Melody suggested. I also agree with Matt G. over the fact these machines aren't being made any longer so if you fix it well now your son will be able to hand it down to his son someday after you have started pushing daisys. There are enough of these CCs being torn apart and sold and that's just taboo with many of the forum members including myself. I do have a couple of cubs for parts but they are mostly rusted shut everywhere through years of weather and abuse. I don't have a 147 (yet) but I have heard many great things about that model. I am mostly a wide frame type of guy anyway. I even have a couple of the d**n green things but they would definitely be the first to go. Charlie even has at least one as well. So....just do some thinking and some research on the 147 and I'm sure you'll be glad you kept it; I know your son will be in time.
Congratulations on your son and future gearhead.
Also, get rid of those balance gears when you do the rebuild. It's one of the first things I do when I acquire one with em.
Good luck!
It sounds like you need to sit down and take a deep breath. You don't have to fix everything at one time therefore you can spread the cost over several weeks like Melody suggested. I also agree with Matt G. over the fact these machines aren't being made any longer so if you fix it well now your son will be able to hand it down to his son someday after you have started pushing daisys. There are enough of these CCs being torn apart and sold and that's just taboo with many of the forum members including myself. I do have a couple of cubs for parts but they are mostly rusted shut everywhere through years of weather and abuse. I don't have a 147 (yet) but I have heard many great things about that model. I am mostly a wide frame type of guy anyway. I even have a couple of the d**n green things but they would definitely be the first to go. Charlie even has at least one as well. So....just do some thinking and some research on the 147 and I'm sure you'll be glad you kept it; I know your son will be in time.
Congratulations on your son and future gearhead.
Also, get rid of those balance gears when you do the rebuild. It's one of the first things I do when I acquire one with em.
Good luck!
fcurrier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2004
- Messages
- 3,155
- displayname
- Frank A. Currier(Northern Maine)
Hi, Wayne!
Andrew: Don't hold that deep breath - you'll turn blue (a mix of green and yellow).
Ken Updike in FARMALL CUB AND CUB CADET says there were 15,678 units made and the list price was $1545. Using 1970 as a base, my inflation calculator translates that to $8441 in 2009. You read that right.
I had one, electric lift and all. Named him Amos. Sold him before I realized what I had - the Cub Cadet that introduced the 14hp engine to the narrow frame by relieving the frame to accept the larger flywheel on the 14hp Kohler.
Many parts on these old machines are interchangeable and a lot are still available new. The 147 is a great place to start the sickness known as Yellow Fever. Of course so is the 123, 125, 149 .... and the list goes on! Just remember, Man made it, Man can fix it.
Andrew: Don't hold that deep breath - you'll turn blue (a mix of green and yellow).
Ken Updike in FARMALL CUB AND CUB CADET says there were 15,678 units made and the list price was $1545. Using 1970 as a base, my inflation calculator translates that to $8441 in 2009. You read that right.
I had one, electric lift and all. Named him Amos. Sold him before I realized what I had - the Cub Cadet that introduced the 14hp engine to the narrow frame by relieving the frame to accept the larger flywheel on the 14hp Kohler.
Many parts on these old machines are interchangeable and a lot are still available new. The 147 is a great place to start the sickness known as Yellow Fever. Of course so is the 123, 125, 149 .... and the list goes on! Just remember, Man made it, Man can fix it.
Dennis,
I wasn't trying to insult anybody. I just thought it was odd that this guy let his wife and kids ride around on something with exposed wires. Especially a tractor without fenders. That's just asking for something bad to happen to somebody who's not paying attention.
I wasn't trying to insult anybody. I just thought it was odd that this guy let his wife and kids ride around on something with exposed wires. Especially a tractor without fenders. That's just asking for something bad to happen to somebody who's not paying attention.
Andrew. Just buy all the parts little by little. One to two hundred bucks at a time. You wil need a camshaft which will be your most expensive part. That is, if you can have your crank "turned". DO NOT put balance gears back in. You will need main bearings, rod, piston and rings just for the basics. Stens parts are ok if you dont have alot of money. I personaly would rather you try to fix the ole cub with stens parts, than junk the poor ole thing...I thnk charlie has the two gears for the electric lift. You can also get a new electric motor for it too. Price isnt too terrible. Restoring? Start with your engine. Get the parts little by little then have a machine shop turn it hone it and put it all together for you. Then start on steering tie rods ect. The rearend will last forever. Dont even fret over it. Change the hydro filter and fluid. IH HYTRAN FLUID ONLY!!! The engine will be your biggest expense for now. The rest you can do over time. If it runs well, you can enjoy using it even if it looks ugly!!
Jared B.
Us OLD guys that grew up on farms way back when, know that no fenders and a few wires hanging, don't mean anything in the scheme of things on machines.
I'm sure most could tell many stories that would scare the bejeezes out of most of the people today!
I know I could, LOL
Us OLD guys that grew up on farms way back when, know that no fenders and a few wires hanging, don't mean anything in the scheme of things on machines.
I'm sure most could tell many stories that would scare the bejeezes out of most of the people today!
I know I could, LOL
okay, i just returned from the garage. i ripped the block apart, removed flywheel, piston, camshaft, crankshaft, balance gears. pretty much everything except the vavles. looking at the bore, it MAY have been rebuilt not that long ago. i still see cross-hatching, which to me means that someone at least did a hone on it not to many hours ago. i havent miked anything yet. thats the plan for tomorrow. the only kohler i have ever fully rebuilt was a k161 on an old b****s ridematic tractor, that was 10 plus years ago, but i have worked on kohler quite a bit. i love them cause they built them well and im famaliar with them, kinda like an old freind. anyways i couldnt get over the size of those main bearings, its huge really heavy duty hardware. its allot bigger than the k161 main bearings were. anyways, i will take a close look at the bearings but they may or may not require replacement, they are quite durable.
the camshaft fell apart into 2 peices when i removed it, completely shot. im going to look for another good used cranshaft since the keyway is messed up. im also going to have to replace the governor gear. its badly chewed up.
looking at the block, it has some damage itself, but i feel it may be still useable. it has a chunk missing at the bottom of the bore past the cooling fins. i think it may be below piston travel but im not sure. looks like damage caused by the balance gears.
balance gears do a horrible number on these engines when they fail. it looks like it was a big mistake for kohler to even use them. many a good block ruined due to their useage. i will NOT be using them. im glad my k301 on my other tractor doesnt have them.
there is an online seller who sells weights that you can have machined to the crank that is supposed to eliminate the vibrations these engines are known for. my k301 doesnt have balance weights, and while i prefer it that way it does tend to vibrate more. it was originally an engine fitted to a tractor that had iso mounts, the current tractor its on does not. the 147 doesnt have iso mounts either, so i think the weights might be a good idea.
if the block is savable, it might not need a piston or cylinder work. i will have to have proper measurements taken to make a judgement on it. it might be an oversized piston as well. it had some carbon on it which i would have to clean off to see any markings. i didnt look at it closely yet either. usually carbon deposites can indicate a good seal. if it has the carbon washed away, this means that the rings are shot and are washing away the carbon with oil. oil is the result of blowby and bad rings/bore.
how do i remove the governor gear, i have never done one of these. they generally dont fail but that balance gear ate it up
the camshaft fell apart into 2 peices when i removed it, completely shot. im going to look for another good used cranshaft since the keyway is messed up. im also going to have to replace the governor gear. its badly chewed up.
looking at the block, it has some damage itself, but i feel it may be still useable. it has a chunk missing at the bottom of the bore past the cooling fins. i think it may be below piston travel but im not sure. looks like damage caused by the balance gears.
balance gears do a horrible number on these engines when they fail. it looks like it was a big mistake for kohler to even use them. many a good block ruined due to their useage. i will NOT be using them. im glad my k301 on my other tractor doesnt have them.
there is an online seller who sells weights that you can have machined to the crank that is supposed to eliminate the vibrations these engines are known for. my k301 doesnt have balance weights, and while i prefer it that way it does tend to vibrate more. it was originally an engine fitted to a tractor that had iso mounts, the current tractor its on does not. the 147 doesnt have iso mounts either, so i think the weights might be a good idea.
if the block is savable, it might not need a piston or cylinder work. i will have to have proper measurements taken to make a judgement on it. it might be an oversized piston as well. it had some carbon on it which i would have to clean off to see any markings. i didnt look at it closely yet either. usually carbon deposites can indicate a good seal. if it has the carbon washed away, this means that the rings are shot and are washing away the carbon with oil. oil is the result of blowby and bad rings/bore.
how do i remove the governor gear, i have never done one of these. they generally dont fail but that balance gear ate it up
JARED B. - I agree with the bare wires. I've done lots of wiring on my old tractors, only my 982 had factory lights but now ALL of them do and they all work, one CC, my 72 has extra work lights & AM/FM/Cass deck radio, LOTS of extra wiring on that tractor. Guess that's what happens when you keep a CC for thirty years. I solder all connections, and use lots of heat shrink tubing, and EVERYTHING gets fuses right at the power source.
These little tractors are not toys, they are machines made for work, but they are small and easy to run, and help develop good machine operationing skills. Like most farm kids I was running full-size farm tractors when I was 9 & 10 yrs old, the old CCO & 70 were my training vehicles. Dad did try to put fenders on a couple of the tractors I used for field work when I was young but that only lasted about a yesr. I few minutes of serious instruction on proper operation, then watch the new operator closely for a few minutes and make suggestions, or additional instructions and most poeple can operate them just fine.
DAVE R. - I LOL! Yep, it's a miracle we survived our childhoods isnt it?!?!
ANDREW - Sorry to hear about your 147's K321. Just like the $6 Million Dollar Man, You can REBUILD your Kohler BETTER than new! "CHEAP" and high quality are not possible, but you can get that engine running reliably for not much money.
These little tractors are not toys, they are machines made for work, but they are small and easy to run, and help develop good machine operationing skills. Like most farm kids I was running full-size farm tractors when I was 9 & 10 yrs old, the old CCO & 70 were my training vehicles. Dad did try to put fenders on a couple of the tractors I used for field work when I was young but that only lasted about a yesr. I few minutes of serious instruction on proper operation, then watch the new operator closely for a few minutes and make suggestions, or additional instructions and most poeple can operate them just fine.
DAVE R. - I LOL! Yep, it's a miracle we survived our childhoods isnt it?!?!
ANDREW - Sorry to hear about your 147's K321. Just like the $6 Million Dollar Man, You can REBUILD your Kohler BETTER than new! "CHEAP" and high quality are not possible, but you can get that engine running reliably for not much money.
Andrew there is a phillips head screw near where the governor rod comes out of the block. If the gov. arm is on it will be behind it. Remove that screw and the governor gear will slide off the shaft.
I look at the expense of repairing a cub cadet as a investment.
I look at the expense of repairing a cub cadet as a investment.
