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Archive through December 01, 2010
- Thread starter sbauer
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Steve, assuming it still has the original model Onan (Model B48G), 3.5 pints with a filter change and 3.2 pints without a filter change.
STEVE B. : 982 with the B48G Onan takes 3-1/2 pints of oil, little over 1-1/2 quarts with a new filter. Any good 30W detergent auto oil works good. I'd maybe run 5W-30 or 10W-30 in winter. The Onan has an oil pump so doesn't rely on oil splash for lube so thick oil doesn't effect cold weather lubrication as much as on the old K-series Kohlers.
I use 15W-40 Rotella T in mine since I have gallon jugs of it around for my diesel pickup. But I don;t run mine at all in winter. Ken Weaver did a survey of oils that still have decent levels of zinc, or ZDDP for proper lube of mechanical valve lifters or tappets last summer and Rotella T was one of the best.
I use 15W-40 Rotella T in mine since I have gallon jugs of it around for my diesel pickup. But I don;t run mine at all in winter. Ken Weaver did a survey of oils that still have decent levels of zinc, or ZDDP for proper lube of mechanical valve lifters or tappets last summer and Rotella T was one of the best.
Denny, you're too slow.
KRAIG - Thanks for posting that page of the 982 service manual.
IH recommended their Low Ash oil for all gas engines, CC's included. There was an interesting article in the last Red Power Magazine by "The Tractor Doctor", He was a mechanic for an IH dealer up around Oshkosh/Appleton, WI area for many many years.
He said the reason the K seres Kohlers start sticking exhaust valves is because the oil coats the exh valve stems and burns or charrs between the valve stem & guide. He said a K-series that has had IH Loc Ash oil will not have that black charred deposit, in fact changing to IH Low Ash will actually clean those deposits.
The actual Onan oil chart shows more multi-weight oils.
IH recommended their Low Ash oil for all gas engines, CC's included. There was an interesting article in the last Red Power Magazine by "The Tractor Doctor", He was a mechanic for an IH dealer up around Oshkosh/Appleton, WI area for many many years.
He said the reason the K seres Kohlers start sticking exhaust valves is because the oil coats the exh valve stems and burns or charrs between the valve stem & guide. He said a K-series that has had IH Loc Ash oil will not have that black charred deposit, in fact changing to IH Low Ash will actually clean those deposits.
The actual Onan oil chart shows more multi-weight oils.
Charlie, I posted a bunch of Roland Bedell's great colored wiring diagrams in the new forum area you created.
Hope that was OK. I assumed that's what it is for. If not.
Hope that was OK. I assumed that's what it is for. If not.
Kraig McConaughey "Keeper of the Photos"
Nice job there!
Charlie might have to tweak them as to progression. I love the idea that all will be able to have the manuals for this hobby. This is good stuff I think.
Day three of the wifes vacation and i`am wanting my Cub fix.I did get to run the 149 today !
Nice job there!
Day three of the wifes vacation and i`am wanting my Cub fix.I did get to run the 149 today !
Steven B. There was a Loctite product that someone on here recommended for the Oil Tube. It was one of the Threadlock/Assembly products that would jump a fair gap. I don't recall the number and their website has gotten more complex.
Can i still post? i guess i can.
Can i still post? i guess i can.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Water + mower decks...
Not mine. I remove them several times per season to scrape off the grass clippings. You can avoid a lot of problems from wet grass clippings by not mowing wet grass. NEVER EVER wash any of the 44" or 50" decks...water will get trapped under the stiffener plate and rust and pit it and the deck skin all to heck since there was no paint in that area on them from the factory. I have welded up too many holes in those decks from them getting wet. I use this Rustoleum brush-on paint that can be applied over rust on the bottoms of my decks. I wire wheel off the grass and loose chunks of metal and then paint with that stuff. It works great. It will wear off of some areas, but grass clippings don't tend to stick to those areas, either. It's easy to scrape the chunks off of the other ares.
Jeff U.-
Looking great, but PLEASE tell me you didn't sandblast those front wheels with the bearings still in them...
Denny-
I have a 46GT deck on my 782D. It is a nice deck and cuts our uneven yard much better than most 44" and 50" decks I have had. The biggest problem with the 44" and 50" decks is the rust issue I mentioned above. The later CCC decks are pretty decent, but the factory powder coat is HORRIBLE. I need to sandblast and paint that 46GT one of these days.
The 46GT will fit any IH-built 82 series with no problems, and could probably be put on a 1x8/9 or QL with minimal changes. Forget putting it (or any of the newer decks) on a NF, though. You could probably kludge together a mule drive and carriage combo that would work, but those newer decks are all so tall. They would barely fit under the tractor let alone lift above the ground.
The aluminum housing spindles in the newer decks will fit the older decks and make a great replacement for the ST-745 bearings.
Not mine. I remove them several times per season to scrape off the grass clippings. You can avoid a lot of problems from wet grass clippings by not mowing wet grass. NEVER EVER wash any of the 44" or 50" decks...water will get trapped under the stiffener plate and rust and pit it and the deck skin all to heck since there was no paint in that area on them from the factory. I have welded up too many holes in those decks from them getting wet. I use this Rustoleum brush-on paint that can be applied over rust on the bottoms of my decks. I wire wheel off the grass and loose chunks of metal and then paint with that stuff. It works great. It will wear off of some areas, but grass clippings don't tend to stick to those areas, either. It's easy to scrape the chunks off of the other ares.
Jeff U.-
Looking great, but PLEASE tell me you didn't sandblast those front wheels with the bearings still in them...
Denny-
I have a 46GT deck on my 782D. It is a nice deck and cuts our uneven yard much better than most 44" and 50" decks I have had. The biggest problem with the 44" and 50" decks is the rust issue I mentioned above. The later CCC decks are pretty decent, but the factory powder coat is HORRIBLE. I need to sandblast and paint that 46GT one of these days.
The 46GT will fit any IH-built 82 series with no problems, and could probably be put on a 1x8/9 or QL with minimal changes. Forget putting it (or any of the newer decks) on a NF, though. You could probably kludge together a mule drive and carriage combo that would work, but those newer decks are all so tall. They would barely fit under the tractor let alone lift above the ground.
The aluminum housing spindles in the newer decks will fit the older decks and make a great replacement for the ST-745 bearings.
stanner
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 2, 2002
- Messages
- 1,349
- displayname
- Scott Tanner... Can't even see the Cub in this mess..
Charlie,
What "improvements" did you make to the forum? I can't get to it at work anymore... I go through 8 hrs of cub withdrawl now...
They block activeX and stuff like that... Grr.
JB,
It's possible... anything will fit with the right adapter... I cut and welded mine, adding 1 inch to both sides..
It may be easier to find a QA42A subframe that it adjustable... Our sponsors probably have them...
What "improvements" did you make to the forum? I can't get to it at work anymore... I go through 8 hrs of cub withdrawl now...
They block activeX and stuff like that... Grr.
JB,
It's possible... anything will fit with the right adapter... I cut and welded mine, adding 1 inch to both sides..
It may be easier to find a QA42A subframe that it adjustable... Our sponsors probably have them...
