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Archive through August 30, 2018

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wshytle

Well-known member
Joined
May 18, 2009
Messages
2,810
displayname
Wayne Shytle
Steve B. (Mr. Plow)-

Is a land adjustment all I need to correct this curving?

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It starts off nice and straight and gets like this only after a few rows. It's cutting nicely and the 149 makes sure it throws the turf over. The moisture level is good as well.

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You're probably right Charlie.

At least I can fix this problem with a Chinese backhoe and I've already switched over to the disc.

It's been very hot here and I was afraid I was too late because it hasn't rained here in over a week. When this turf dries it can't be cut (at least by my outfit).

I'm ready for some collards, broccoli, turnips, cabbage, and the standard onions.

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Looks to me like you are starting the furrow perpendicular to your angled strike line, not parallel to the plowed furrow. Drop the front wheel in the furrow about 3 feet from the strike line to force yourself to drive parallel to the furrow.

Also, plows pull left as they load and plow deeper. you shuld always start a furrow with an overcut and it helps.
 
Steve-

Thanks for the reply. I'm a little confused about this "overcut". What the heck is it? When I go to turn a section I lay out point A and point B with stakes, sometimes string too. I follow the line and the plow is dropped completely turning the first row. Let me back up a bit. I first turn a row adjacent to the garden rows to give me a place to drop the plow every run. So, after I run the first row I do as I think you said and drop the front wheel in the last furrow, creep forward until plow meets starting point, drop plow, and give it heck with the shifter. The throttle stays the same throughout plowing...WO. The perpendicular approach throws me a bit. And I'm assuming here the "strike line" would be the original furrow I made that starts all of the rows...running adjacent. I try and run as parallel as I can by keeping the front right in the furrow and as close to the wall of the previous cut.

I was hoping it would take an adjustment and may still but it's cut like this for a few years now and I'm getting tired of having to clean things up manually. The plow has always done a good job and the disc covers up a lot of the strange shapes that occur.

Again, thanks for the input.

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Wayne,

Which of the three holes are you using on the plow to connect it to the "U bracket"?
If you are not using the center hole, try that.
Also, you could try using the pointer on the hood to guide you instead of the wheel in the furrow method.
If you have rocks, roots, or thick clumps of grass, it is almost impossible to lay off a straight line/furrow.

One more thought. What travel speed are you using, WOT? BRS?
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Wayne, Wayne, Wayne - forget what David S says and just do it. Forget leaning left and just go LEFT young man. It really ain't bad being out here on the LEFT (coast).
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Thanks, Digger! I'd almost forgotten about Aaron. I didn't need to see him to make my day, but...
 
Thanks for the replies gentlemen.

Charlie-

Who the heck is Aaron? I think I might be impressed as well as humbled.


Also, I'm a Nascar fan (Harvick/Ford) so "left" fits right into my way of thinking.

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Wayne,

More simply said, it looks to me like you are always turning into your furrow with a right turn and you aren't parallel with the previous furrow when you start. That coupled with the fact that Brinly plows don't cut their full width until they are at full depth makes for your hook.

How do you fix it?

Don't always drive with your wheel against the furrow wall. You have to watch your furrow and "give" and "take" from your width of cut by driving to the plowed side or the land side of the furrow. Get back an inch every pass and you get it straightened out....you learn this planting on side hills with markers (no fancy GPS guidance
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)......when the planter side slips, you drive higher up the hill to compensate.....or you get a "hook"......

If it gets too bad, fix it!!! Plow a furrow 1/4 the way down, lift the plow, go back and start over. square it up and keep plowing.

Another trick is to drive back on opposite sides of the land every other pass.....a hook you get from turning in from the right gets taken back out by turning in from the left on the next pass.
 
Thanks Steve-

I see what you're saying a little better now I think. I don't turn right into my rows. I always swing to the left and return making a left hand circle. The reason is twofold, first, the rows in my garden are at an angle (helps with erosion) and turning left into them is easier and I go left to return on unplowed ground. I've also tried to correct this curve by doing just as you said taking an inch or two then trying to steer away from the land side. I've also tried just cutting the first 1/4 as you mentioned but these tractors aren't quite big enough to handle the cut turf making proper steering a bit ruff. I just thought of something else, the 149 has wide fronts whereas narrow front tires might allow a little more turning in the furrow. (?)

I do appreciate the input (and wish I was raised on a farm).

Charlie-

Now I remember. That's the guy that got several members wound up with "but it helps" a few weeks back. CRS kicks in almost daily now.

It rained last night and caught both 149s out of the barn. They never get rained on and I got up at 1:30 to move them but it was pouring. Oh well...stuff happens.

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My first OTF post!! Because I’m having to deal with rheumatoid arthritis, I’m limited in how far and long I can walk. My wife and I decided we should get something I could ride around the farm and at tractor shows. We decided we wanted something unique:

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It’s rear wheel drive with a centrifugal clutch, 3 forward speeds and reverse. The top speed is advertised to be 37 mph, but I’ll never prove that!!

It’s powdered by a 125 cc engine that is supposed to be a Honda clone made in China. It runs great but seems to be cold natured when we’re trying to get it started. I’m hoping someone can help me figure out how the choke works. The choke “control lever” is located above the inlet air so it doesn’t seem to be a butterfly setup. It also doesn’t seem to have a “stop” position on the choke movement. Anyone familiar with a carb that looks like this and can help me out?

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Paul,

Fun little rig! Choke looks like a gate style, similar to what is used on weedeaters, etc. plastic gate with hole drilled in it that swings down into the airstream.......but that's just a guess based on appearance and my recent work on my Stihl leaf blower
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......."You don't have to drive around tractor shows in a mini-Jeep"............"But it heppps!"
 
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