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Archive through August 27, 2014

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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dkirk

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520
Location
Fond du Lac, WI
displayname
David Kirk
Dennis,

Thanks for mentioning that exhaust valve - that sent me on a hunt to find those pictures, which I finally did.

This has to be the most interesting engine failure I've ever seen...not really a failure though, as the engine was still able to run when my friend discovered this exhaust valve during an overhaul. Seems that the owner would experience a loss of compression/power, and upon finding that the exhaust lash had reduced to zero clearance, he would reset it to .018. This process went on several times and he finally ran out of adjustment on the lifter. The end result was this "taffy pulled" exhaust valve stem. My friend Tim had this valve sitting in his shop for several years until he accidentally knocked it off his table and it became two-pieces when it hit the floor. Fortunately, I captured the intact specimen via photos right after he removed the valve from the engine.
289690.jpg
 
Hydroharry- True, the person I got the Kohler K341A from is a puller. He only ran twin cylinder engines. Well, mine don't appear to have been used lately.....a good sigh if you ask me. I'm still amazed that I can't turn it past compression stroke with one hand. Ok, the fin thing. Please give details as to how to count or check whether or not I have a 13 cooling fin. Are there cooling fins that may not be counted as so? I really don't know, please forgive me!

The engine will be well taken care of, though it might never find itself in a model 169, but a model 86! I can hardly wait to get going on the project, enjoying the 1450 project, and looking for ways to light my model 72 for winter snow plowing with a IH 42" blade. I do have a really neat tail light......

There should be a serial number noted as to when the 12 fin began production? It's definitely Kohler for IH Cub Cadet, and a model 169 has to come to mind as to where my engine came out of.
 
Sorry guys, I was thinking that was a color photo and she was wearing red pants and a white shirt.......must be a different publicity shot I was thinking of........ still a nice "seat cover"!!!!!
 
John L - nothing special I'm aware of about counting the cooling fins on the block - just count them all bottom to top, or top to bottom. They are all pretty evenly spaced as you look at the separation between each one. There may be some places where there appears to be a double wide gap so look around the cylinder a little to see if the fin just doesn't go all the way around. There is no serial number break separating 13 fin from 12. Kohler was apparently shipping both versions at the same time. As far as I know Kohler didn't differentiate between the 2 blocks since nothing else was different, just the block casting. I suppose that wouldn't happen with todays manufacturing standards but back in '74 it probably didn't make a difference.
 
dang it Harry you broke this thing again....lol
 
Question:
I will be painting my dad's 122 soon. What kind of hardener would be best for the Case/IH Irongard paint?
Would Valspar 4625 enamel hardener work fine?
Thanks,
 
Marty G.
Just about an hardener works with CNH paint, just make sure and mix it per the can.
A couple drops of fish eye remover as well for good measure.
 
Marty,
I used Napa harder on all my CNH paint. Part number 253. Keep in mind once you open the hardener you only have 3 days to use it. You could get up to seven days if you put in the fridge. Fish eye killer is a good thing but keep in mind it will leave you paint with a orange peel look. Hope this helps Jim
 
There are 3 things, maybe more that cause orange peel in and while painting.
1. It's caused by the surface tension of the paint as it dries, and is mostly a result of laying the paint down too thick.
2. Not mixing your paint to the right consistency.
3. Air temp and or humidity.

Fish eye remover does not cause orange peeling.

The only thin it does is. It helps us when painting for our lack of prep and or lack of paying attention to the small details during painting.
It's a very forgiving additive for us when we just want to get it DONE, LOL

Fish eye remover helps the paint flow easier as the surface tension normally would keep it from flowing over slippery contaminants on the work.

The best way to eliminate fish-eye finish is to wash all contaminants off the project before you start. LOL

Fish-eye eliminator, ironically enough, is silicone oil in a vehicle compatible with your finish. By pre-contaminating the finish, it lowers surface tension and lets the finish flow over contaminants on the wood without fleeing and cratering. The downside is that when you use the eliminator, you promptly contaminate your spray equipment with silicone oil. This, of course, sets you up to create fish-eyes the next time you spray, unless you've washed your cup and gun very thoroughly with lots of solvent. Because of this, some finishers opt to use fish-eye eliminator every time they spray, though there may be some cost in terms of adhesion between coats, poor resistance to sags and runs, and reduced final film hardness.

I use it and always will.
289694.jpg
 
Jim H.

Do you mean use the paint with hardener in 3 days or just the hardener? I have use hardener several months/years old before, seemed to work ok.
Jim
 
Jim P.
He means to use the paint/hardener you've mixed up within 3 days.
You won't like what you see in your gun if you don't, LOL
 
No I mean the hardner. If you mix it right it should be set up in the gun cup by the next morning. I use to use the same can of harderner for a long time. Some times you can get away with it. But if you do it long enough it will bite you in the A!!. It wont show up for about a month or so. And as cheap as hardner is why take a chance. Jim
 
Just wondering exactly how an electric front PTO clutch works and what actually happens when you flip the switch. Hoping someone might be willing to explain the similarities and differences between electrical and mechanical clutches...

I'm a little more familiar with mechanical PTO clutches (which are based on spring tension, etc.). Do electric clutches work the same way except for springs, or are they a completely different type of device?
 
Steve S--the electric PTO found starting with QL series on up operates as an electro magnet. It is similar to the big huge ones found at a salvage yard for picking up large quantities of metal at one time, when electric current it applied. When turned off, the magnet "demagnetizes" and releases the metal.

The PTO's on our later model tractors work in the same fashion. The magnet part of the PTO is turning attached directly to the crank shaft. The pulley is on a heavy metal ring surrounding the magnet, when you flip the switch current is applied causing heavy magnetization and the pulley begins to turn with the crank. This is the best that I understand it.

Maybe someone like Jeremiah C could explain it better to you with their vast knowledge of electrical things. This is my understanding of how they work...
 
Josh S -- Thanks for that great explanation. Magnets instead of springs...now THAT makes sense!
beerchug.gif
 
Not that I know everything about painting, but it seems to me that "fish-eye" in paint is the direct result of hastily metal prep. I have never had fish-eye on metal that was properly prepared. So, when you think you have your IH Cub Cadet metal clean, go back and clean it three more times. I'm not kidding! The Napa Kleans Easy metal prep is a good start, followed up with Napa self-etching fluid. Finger prints, dirt showing up on the rag, and dampness can cause fish-eye. By all means, don't use a paper towel, use a cloth that don't give off lint and fuzz (Y's).

On a side note: Glad I'm done with work for the week! With Monday off too, I will have the needed time to get the 1450 back up and moving!!!!!

Hydroharry- I counted 13 cooling fins on the 169 engine I just picked up. Then to make sure I was counting correctly, I went over and counted the K321AQS, and came up with 12 there, respectably.

Have a great and safe Labor Day, and get those IH Cub Cadets out!

over and out-
 
There is a 169 for sale in my area on CL. The guy wants $2200, the tractor is very nice. Well I am assuming he is a guy and it's not some guys wife who has had enough of his hobby that she get's no enjoyment out of.

Question to all: Would you rather find a tractor at a good price and make it nice your self or pay to have it nice?

Half the enjoyment is doing everything myself, no more satisfaction than in a job well done.

Jim
 

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