Archive through August 24, 2004

[digger]

Bill K.
Now if you had one of these handy dandy things, you would be done in about 5 minutes.

BTW,
For all you KENTUCK Fans, he went today to get his other eye lazer zapped.

 

[bknight]

Digger, Thanks for your input. Have thought about turning it on side or tilting up. Will see about turning on side. I don't know if that would hurt the tractor or not. As for the other thing. What is it and where do I get it ? Is that a phone no. on it? Is it some sort of a press for the pins? Thanks Bill

 

[digger]

It's a pin tool remover & Installer, Ken Weaver used to make them untill his eyes went bad, but he might start again if his lazer work holds. They are not available right now though.

 

[lbuttke]

Thanks for the info Digger and Bryan
I will adjust it in the morning, now that I know the gap.

 

[klorenz]

Has anyone out there tried using a grade#8 bolt instead of a spiral pin to connect the drive shaft to the transmission on a gear drive tractor? What are the pros and cons of doing this?

 

[digger]

Kirk L,
There's a reason for using spirol pins, It's called the shear factor. You want to shear off a pin or twist a drive shaft into a spriol dog chain holder for your yard? Yer choice. ;-p

(Message edited by cproctor on August 24, 2004)

 

[wcompton]

Kirk-
Coiled Spring Pins will take the vibration better than a grade 8 bolt. I've sheared two grade 8 bolts on a previously owned Cub Cadet, never had a problem with a coiled spring pin.

I'll have to dig out the information again, but at one time I had looked up some information from Camcar Textron, showed about 80% more life from a coiled spring pin vs. a bolt. On top of that, with a bolt you're stuck with the nominal diameter of the bolt versus the press fit of a coiled spring pin.

FWIW "spirol" pins as they are sometimes called is a brand name, they also make slotted spring pins which you DON'T want to use in your driveline.

 

[klorenz]

Digger-
I don't have a dog. Don't want a dog. Don't want a twisted drive shaft either. Thanks for yer advice.

 

[dharmon]

I just purchased a new (new to me) cub for $50.00 to add to my small colection. There are no origonal decals on the tractor,only the model # 385058R1 on the side of the diff case. If I am reading the production data and Louisvill works serial number report right it would be a model 73 built in April of 1971. Does this sound right?

 

[mtoney]

That is about what I did except mine isnt chrome, I cant figure out how to upload photos or I would post one. With the extra bracing that manifold has just before the extension to pass outside the tractor, I am was supprised to hear of a cracking problem, now I can see it if you hit a taller stack on a tree limb or something, but I think mine should be just fine. Good looking 782d in that pic!

 

[mtoney]

Kevin, what gauges does that tuned up diesel have? I assume it has water temp, I am wonder about exhaust temp, oil pressure?

 

[aaytay]

Donnie-
I believe what you're reading is actually the casting number (basically a part number for the tranny case).

I'm guessing this tractor is an "Original". Does it have a frame that runs from the front of the tractor to the very end, or does the frame start at the front and end where the tranny starts?

 

[jrichardson]

Maybe I should just quite while I am ahead... This was the pic I was trying to post. This was one of Paul Bell's finds... BTW, Bryan can you please delete the other posts?

(Message edited by jrichardson on August 25, 2004)

 

[rpatton]

Bill Knight ,once you get to the pin a set of roll pin punches are really nice to have .they have a small nib on them that help hold it on the pin without mushrooming it out . Rich

 

[pbrouillette]

I sell carb heater fuses for $750.00. Paul

 

[pbrouillette]

Hey guys, thanks for the info on the steering. I am about ready to start mowing with the 3-speed. I will immediatly start taking the hydrostat apart for the restoration. They both run great and I will be able to use the 3-speed as a hauler when the hydro is done. Can't wait to start tearing it down and tightening it all up. I will post a pic when done or along the way. Thanks again. Paul

 

[bmcmeen]

Donnie -

There's a question just for you in the FAQ, which is at the link above. It addresses where to find the serial number...

Jeff R. -

Whadja do? Sit down and have one too many?

 

[dfrisk]

The worst place for wear in a gear drive CC is the rear coupler where the driveshaft attaches to the reduction gear pinion. The front pin wears the hole in the driveshaft oversize & oblong because the spirol pin is so much harder than the steel in the driveshaft. Eventually the pin will crack & fail. Not a problem with the 7 & 8 HP engines but the 10 & 12's can shear a pin a year or more if used hard. A 1/4" dia. pin being twisted by a 5/8" dia. shaft just doesn't supply enough surface area to last real long. MTD developed a much larger shock absorbing coupler on the later versions of their gear drive tractors. I think if You could attach some sort of additional coupler to the rear of the driveshaft that slid OVER the OEM coupler that shared part of the load that problem would disappear. Then the hole in the drive pinion which would be the only place left with a single roll pin driving the tractor could wallow out the pinion hole.... but then it's hardened high carbon steel so that would take a LONG time. Last pinion I bought back in about 1990 was only $69......;-(

 

[rmull]

You would have to change the idler pullys on the mule drive as well, I forgot that.

I put the who she-bang from the 782D under my 582 and mowed with it.

I don't know why it wouldn't work under a 1x8/9 or 1x00/50...same frame, just the difference of the frame splayed out for the boxer twins & the lift cylinder.

 

[sblunier]

Ryan,

There are differences in the mule drives and subframes from xx8/9 & xx00/50 machines to the 82 series.

I'm not saying it can't be made to work, but there may be more to it than just pulleys and the offset front hanger forks. Remember the little offset in the subframe near the left foot rest????

Like I said, it might work, but I would sure want to try it all out for fit and function to make 100% sure before somebody went out and bought one thinking it was a direct swap over.

I do know that the 82 series subframe/mule will work on a 1250.....