Archive through August 22, 2006

[aowsley]

Kenny, .213. however, looking more closely at the kit, everything would work but the shaft. the shaft in kit is all one piece. i would need the old idle stop. i'll have to do some more checking...

 

[brader]

There seems to be a lot of play in my front axle from front to back on my 1250. Is that normal? Is there a good way to tighten it up?

Does anyone know the correct length for the mower blades on the 44" deck?

Thanks,
BR

 

[kmcconaughey]

Brent, remove the axle then use a large C clamp to close up the channel that the axle mounts in, then reinstall the axle. This would also be a good time to replace the axle pivot pin (P/N IH-384626-R3) and you'll need a new 3/16" x 1-1/2" spirol pin (P/N 715-0134) for retaining the axle pivot pin.

 

[dbuttle]

Question: Wondering if there is a quieter muffler available for my Club Cadet 100? Maybe even a stack exhaust, so that the fumes don't blow back in my face. More importantly is to tone down the noise abit without affecting the performance to much. Any suggestions.
Dave

 

[jhillegass]

Brent R.
The blades off my 44a deck measure 15-1/16" diagonally across the blade from tip to tip.
They are worn a little, could be 15-1/8" if new.

 

[dclinansmith]

Brent,
When I was removing the fore & aft axle play on my 1650s it never even crossed my mind to do what Kraig suggested. I had a few bronze washers in my junk drawer so I used them as shims on both sides of the axle with a new pivot pin and have been pleased with the results.

 

[dfrisk]

DAVE B. - Those little old salt-shaker mufflers that were OEM on the 100's didn't quiet those 10 HP Kohlers very well did they! Maybe when Kraig gets in He'll post a picture of Steve Blunier's 100 which has the larger cross-mounted muffler off a later vintage Cub Cadet like the early wide-frames and later narrow frames. The outlet on those points out the right hand side just above and in front of the starter/generator pulley. A 90 degree elbow will need to be installed in the exhaust port of the enging facing down and slightly to the right. Those mufflers are about 3" in dia. and probably 10" long. The need a support bolted on the outlet end, a bracket is spotwelded to them that was supposed to bolt to the heat shield fastened to the cylinder head bolts but a short bracket can be made to bolt to the S/G adjusting bracket. That's how My old 129 was setup.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Dave B., here are some photos of Steve Blunier's 100, (which by the way has a 12hp in it), with the later cross-mounted style muffler that Denny mentioned.

 

[kmcconaughey]

David C., I can't take credit for that method of tightening up the front axle. I forget for sure who came up with it but it might have been Steve Blunier.

 

[sblunier]

Kraig,

It was Hydro Harry, I use the 3/4" bolt method on mine, like the 82 series.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Steve, that's right! Ooooo, I forgot about the bolt method and I think it's is easier too. You use the bolt to pull the channel together and then use the bolt in place of the pin correct? Does the bolt head and/or nut have to be ground down for clearance? Here's a picture of a bolt in place. I thought I had a photo of one with the bolt head ground down but I can't find it. Also do you use a grade 5 or a grade 8 bolt?

 

[bmcmeen]

Kraig -

You can also use a low-profile nyloc nut with the bolt to solve clearance issues. NF threads, IIRC...

Some just use the nut/bolt in place of the C-clamp to draw things back into place then use the original pin setup.

 

[sblunier]

Yes, you must clearance both the bolt head and the castle nut, but it works well.

Bolt head clearance is required to allow the QA hooks to fully engage the mower mule drive (long rod that crosses between the hooks).

 

[bcorn]

That is one nice looking 100. Hope my 1000 come out that sharp. Question: Where in the heck did those front weights come from? I am drooling all over my key board!!

Pops

 

[kmcconaughey]

Ben, I believe they started life as Midwest Super Cub weights. They then had the raised lettering ground off (or they might be available as blanks) and the <FONT COLOR="ff0000">I</FONT><FONT COLOR="000000">H</FONT> machined in. Perhaps Steve will correct me if I got this wrong.

 

[sblunier]

Ben,

Thanks!

Kraig,

Nope, 100% correct as usual...that's exactly how it was done.

 

[creavley]

<font color="ff0000">read the rules - this belongs in the classifieds</font> Also I have a very rattley clutch, What is the cure for this clutch??

 

[digger]

Man it looks like I need to leave town more often, You guys have been busy!!!!

 

[brader]

Thanks for all the suggestions on the front axle. I need to remove the engine soon anyway so I'll definitely tighten it up then.
~BR

 

[dfrisk]

KRAIG - Steve has some connections with somebody with a G&L Boring Mill.....

I think it's time We plan a "Field Trip" to race slotcars or something.....
On My MWSD weights I just ground the lettering off and added an old IHC decal that followed Me home from work many years ago.....I always liked those IH sitcase weights painted up with the black & white lettering like the logo.... but I have a picture of a 1468 here in My office that has the lettering "CHROMED"..... And I bet Steve knows who's tractor That is...