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Archive through August 19, 2017
- Thread starter tbergh
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
I have all new parts including arm coupling, drive shaft, hub, and flex disc coupling for my Cub Cadet 149 (Thanks, Charlie Proctor). After installing the drive shaft in the hub and installing the flex disc coupling to the arm coupling and the drive shaft, the hydro pump end of the drive shaft is about 1/4" too low to fit properly into the arm coupling on the hydro pump. Is there an adjustment for the hydro pump to "square" it up for a better alignment to the drive shaft? Considering the way the old shaft is worn on the hydro end, I suspect it's been out of alignment for quite a while.
mgwin
Well-known member
The pics are of the 122 I did for my dad a couple of years ago.
Wayne,
I have only three and a half restored here, and one at dad's house. A 128, 70, O, half of a 100, and the 122 which is dad's.
As for the "barn," they are already here. One is my basement for the restored ones, and the other is in the back yard.
Wayne,
I have only three and a half restored here, and one at dad's house. A 128, 70, O, half of a 100, and the 122 which is dad's.
As for the "barn," they are already here. One is my basement for the restored ones, and the other is in the back yard.
Attachments
Wayne K,
There's not much adjustment for alignment of the Hydro pump shaft centerline with the engine crankshaft centerline as that was pretty much set at the factory.
First go read the Service Manual section on removal and installation of the driveshaft for any helpful tips and to gain a good understanding how everything is suppose to be disassembled/assembled. You can access the Service Manuals from the home page "Manuals" link or via the following link:
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%20QL%20Service%20Manual.pdf
Next, check your frame rails for any obvious damage, buckles or permanent yielding (look for cracked paint). Also check the four engine mount holes c/t the frame for any deformation/wear (this will require engine removal).
If no damage is evident, then loosen the six 3/8" Dia. bolts holding the entire transmission case to the frame. Again review the Service Manual section for removing the transmission and check to make sure the transmission is installed properly to the frame using the correct holes shown in the manual. Loosening the bolts should allow for a small amount of movement. Place a floor jack under the transmission case at the front and raise it to an apply upward force to see if this will give you enough movement for the front of the drive shaft to align with the engine hub. You might also grab a large cresent wrench and place it on the rear drawbar to help move the transmission relative to the frame.
Last resort would be to place large flat washers c/t the two rear engine mounts between the engine pan and frame. With the two front mounting bolts loose, two rear mounting bolts removed and the steel drive pin removed at the front of the driveshaft, hook up the shaft to hydro and find the proper thickness flat washers to fill the resulting gap between the pan and the rear frame mounts. Ideally you should be able to freely move the shaft in and out of the engine drive hub and the back end of the drive shaft is in alignment with the rear coupler on hydro pump.
Hope this helps
There's not much adjustment for alignment of the Hydro pump shaft centerline with the engine crankshaft centerline as that was pretty much set at the factory.
First go read the Service Manual section on removal and installation of the driveshaft for any helpful tips and to gain a good understanding how everything is suppose to be disassembled/assembled. You can access the Service Manuals from the home page "Manuals" link or via the following link:
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%20QL%20Service%20Manual.pdf
Next, check your frame rails for any obvious damage, buckles or permanent yielding (look for cracked paint). Also check the four engine mount holes c/t the frame for any deformation/wear (this will require engine removal).
If no damage is evident, then loosen the six 3/8" Dia. bolts holding the entire transmission case to the frame. Again review the Service Manual section for removing the transmission and check to make sure the transmission is installed properly to the frame using the correct holes shown in the manual. Loosening the bolts should allow for a small amount of movement. Place a floor jack under the transmission case at the front and raise it to an apply upward force to see if this will give you enough movement for the front of the drive shaft to align with the engine hub. You might also grab a large cresent wrench and place it on the rear drawbar to help move the transmission relative to the frame.
Last resort would be to place large flat washers c/t the two rear engine mounts between the engine pan and frame. With the two front mounting bolts loose, two rear mounting bolts removed and the steel drive pin removed at the front of the driveshaft, hook up the shaft to hydro and find the proper thickness flat washers to fill the resulting gap between the pan and the rear frame mounts. Ideally you should be able to freely move the shaft in and out of the engine drive hub and the back end of the drive shaft is in alignment with the rear coupler on hydro pump.
Hope this helps
mgwin
Well-known member
George,
My 128 is the work tractor. It also has scratches and dirt on it. After all, it is just a 128.
Use one or two for work tractors, and restore the others for show.
To me, the older cubs would be more collectible and interesting to see.
When I go to a show and see something like a 128, I think; what a nice tractor.
When I go to a show and see an O, 70, or 100 fixed up I think; WOW! what a nice tractor!
Don't get me wrong, I love them all.
It's like looking at vehicles.
I look at a new vehicle, it's like looking at Steve B's fancy diesel cubs! Nice!
I look at a 55' Chevy all fixed up, and it's like looking at a O, 70/100. Classic!
That's just my way of thinking.
My 128 is the work tractor. It also has scratches and dirt on it. After all, it is just a 128.
Use one or two for work tractors, and restore the others for show.
To me, the older cubs would be more collectible and interesting to see.
When I go to a show and see something like a 128, I think; what a nice tractor.
When I go to a show and see an O, 70, or 100 fixed up I think; WOW! what a nice tractor!
Don't get me wrong, I love them all.
It's like looking at vehicles.
I look at a new vehicle, it's like looking at Steve B's fancy diesel cubs! Nice!
I look at a 55' Chevy all fixed up, and it's like looking at a O, 70/100. Classic!
That's just my way of thinking.
Marty, I agree with you. My family uses a fully restored 70 and a 100 to pull customized 55gal barrels as an "Apple Barrel Express" at Pennsylvania apple festivals. My father won't let me use my 122 even when one of the "classics" is out of service. He thinks the 70 and 100 are in a class by themselves. We may use our O this year if the belt can pull 4 or 5 barrels of people. Again, very nice work on your 122.
I got the 125 out to see if I could get it up and running for some work around the place. I discovered that the brakes do not work and I had a leak in the rear end. I had fixed the trunion, replaced a couple of seals and the cork gasket a while back. All this seems to be in good repair at the moment and not leaking.
The leak appears to be a bad o-ring on the brake liner retainer. Changing the o-ring should be fairly easy and I am not worried about it. The problem I discovered is it appears that the Brake Disc Assembly is missing. I removed the top cover plate on the rear end and do not see the Disc assembly. The constant mesh gear is there and driven off the hydro. The constant mesh gear seems to move about ½ inch back and forth on the pinion shaft. It appears that the brake linings are pushing directly on the constant mesh gear and trying to move it around. See the attached picture.
If I read the service manual correctly, I will need to completely disassembly the rear end, remove the cap that covers the end of the pinion gear to get to the constant mesh gear and then add a new brake disc assembly which I think mounts to the outside of the constant mesh gear (toward the front of the tractor). I have not found a good picture of the constant mesh gear and the brake disc installed.
Where can I find the 2 1/8 expansion plug part 726-0216 and is there any trick to get the old one out.
I am looking for advice on the best way to proceed. Charlie has a brake disc and the linings look good. So it is a matter of getting the parts and installing them. I got a real good seal on the cork gasket and kind of hate to redo it.
The leak appears to be a bad o-ring on the brake liner retainer. Changing the o-ring should be fairly easy and I am not worried about it. The problem I discovered is it appears that the Brake Disc Assembly is missing. I removed the top cover plate on the rear end and do not see the Disc assembly. The constant mesh gear is there and driven off the hydro. The constant mesh gear seems to move about ½ inch back and forth on the pinion shaft. It appears that the brake linings are pushing directly on the constant mesh gear and trying to move it around. See the attached picture.
If I read the service manual correctly, I will need to completely disassembly the rear end, remove the cap that covers the end of the pinion gear to get to the constant mesh gear and then add a new brake disc assembly which I think mounts to the outside of the constant mesh gear (toward the front of the tractor). I have not found a good picture of the constant mesh gear and the brake disc installed.
Where can I find the 2 1/8 expansion plug part 726-0216 and is there any trick to get the old one out.
I am looking for advice on the best way to proceed. Charlie has a brake disc and the linings look good. So it is a matter of getting the parts and installing them. I got a real good seal on the cork gasket and kind of hate to redo it.
Attachments
mgwin
Well-known member
Carson, I don't think you can see the inner brake puck from the top, there are 2 of them you know.
I replaced 'em both on my 104 restore last winter and it was not a big deal.
I'd think the hydro would be similar once the pump was removed, but then I have never done wet brakes on a hydro, yet anyway.
I'd make sure the adjuster is free and operable and try adjusting them first. I don't see any way the inner puck could escape once its stuck inside the socket for it. They are really glued in here too, I had to chisel the old one out it was glued in so firm.
Have you checked the service manual for the brake pad replacement procedure?
I replaced 'em both on my 104 restore last winter and it was not a big deal.
I'd think the hydro would be similar once the pump was removed, but then I have never done wet brakes on a hydro, yet anyway.
I'd make sure the adjuster is free and operable and try adjusting them first. I don't see any way the inner puck could escape once its stuck inside the socket for it. They are really glued in here too, I had to chisel the old one out it was glued in so firm.
Have you checked the service manual for the brake pad replacement procedure?
Got a question on the 108 headlight panel/hood piano hinge.
Does the hinge get sandwiched between the panel and the nose piece or does it go on top of the leadlight panel??
Thanks!
Does the hinge get sandwiched between the panel and the nose piece or does it go on top of the leadlight panel??
Thanks!
