Larry K,
Removal of the PTO clutch shouldn't damage the triangle tension spring. The PTO clutch rebuild kit contains a new spring. The spring is not available by itself.
I had a tough time getting the basket pulley off the crankshaft on a K301 I'm currently rebuilding. You can't pull/pry on the sheet metal part of the pulley as it will just bend and then you've messed up your pulley as it won't run true. I tried a pair of tire irons which would go between the block and pulley so I could pry directly on the hub but it wouldn't budge, not even with heat. Finally continued tearing the engine down; removed flywheel, piston/rod, bearing plate, and camshaft. I set the block in my press w/basket pulley facing up and two thick steel plates underneath to support the block on the flat machined area where the bearing plate attaches and left clearance b/t the two plates for the crankshaft to come out. Next, I placed the open end of a 1-1/4" combination wrench that was thin enough to get in between the pulley and block and the block and pulley hub. I slid the wrench open end onto the crankshaft so the pulley hub would bear directly on the wrench and then pressed the crankshaft out. It worked great. I think you could also insert two ~1/8" thick steel straps b/t the pulley hub and block instead of a wrench. The wrench was handy and it just happened to work for me. The key is to get something b/t the block and pulley hub so you are not applying load on the sheet metal part of the pulley. Hope this helps.
Removal of the PTO clutch shouldn't damage the triangle tension spring. The PTO clutch rebuild kit contains a new spring. The spring is not available by itself.
I had a tough time getting the basket pulley off the crankshaft on a K301 I'm currently rebuilding. You can't pull/pry on the sheet metal part of the pulley as it will just bend and then you've messed up your pulley as it won't run true. I tried a pair of tire irons which would go between the block and pulley so I could pry directly on the hub but it wouldn't budge, not even with heat. Finally continued tearing the engine down; removed flywheel, piston/rod, bearing plate, and camshaft. I set the block in my press w/basket pulley facing up and two thick steel plates underneath to support the block on the flat machined area where the bearing plate attaches and left clearance b/t the two plates for the crankshaft to come out. Next, I placed the open end of a 1-1/4" combination wrench that was thin enough to get in between the pulley and block and the block and pulley hub. I slid the wrench open end onto the crankshaft so the pulley hub would bear directly on the wrench and then pressed the crankshaft out. It worked great. I think you could also insert two ~1/8" thick steel straps b/t the pulley hub and block instead of a wrench. The wrench was handy and it just happened to work for me. The key is to get something b/t the block and pulley hub so you are not applying load on the sheet metal part of the pulley. Hope this helps.