Ronald B.
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Archive through August 12, 2009
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Cub 127.
dlouw
Well-known member
Luther
Thanks for pointing me to the straight and narrow! I actually read all the FAQ's and Charlies' when I first "discovered" the Forum a few months back. Unfortunately, the "oldsheimers" kicked in when I went into a state of panic, seeing the state of this PTO clutch. Bruce Nolte also send my PM and his encouragement has kept me going. I don't have any set screws - other the one on the pulley collar, out yet but at least two of them has started to move a bit. They say patience is a virtue but when I think of the cost of the alternative, I get much "virtue". LOL.
Thanks for the welcomes and the tips shared.
Thanks also to Charlie for fixing the site and everyone else in the "backoffice" keeping the forum's lights burning. It is appreciated. Dawid
Thanks for pointing me to the straight and narrow! I actually read all the FAQ's and Charlies' when I first "discovered" the Forum a few months back. Unfortunately, the "oldsheimers" kicked in when I went into a state of panic, seeing the state of this PTO clutch. Bruce Nolte also send my PM and his encouragement has kept me going. I don't have any set screws - other the one on the pulley collar, out yet but at least two of them has started to move a bit. They say patience is a virtue but when I think of the cost of the alternative, I get much "virtue". LOL.
Thanks for the welcomes and the tips shared.
Thanks also to Charlie for fixing the site and everyone else in the "backoffice" keeping the forum's lights burning. It is appreciated. Dawid
All,
I found out something this week that I hadn’t read about on the forum. Sorry if everyone else knows this but just in case….
I decided to clean my 126 gas tank using electrolysis using the method of Matt and others. Seemed to work great. Lots of red foam along with the usual excitement of using electricity around water. After a couple of days I decided to see what I’d done. Yep, lots of rust poured out of the tank and the inside surface was coated with a black coating. The process wasn’t complete, though. Nevertheless, I got a pen light and looked around inside through the filler hole. What I found surprised me. The baffle is really a floor to ceiling, wall to wall barrier! The tank is really two chambers with just tiny, barricaded holes at the top and bottom of the barrier. I thought that there was just a half-wall baffle in there.
Looking at the construction of the tank a bit closer I realized it is like three pots stuck together. Two are nested to form two chambers and the third is attached mouth to mouth. I’ve tried to diagram this below.
What this means is that electrolysis will never clean the inside chamber ‘cause you can’t effectively get an electrode in it. This also means that the gravel, BBs, screw method of derusting wouldn’t work on the inside chamber either. If fact, looking at the hole protectors there is a chance that you could plug them. I guess the only way to clean this thing is the HCl method that has its own problems.
Additional thoughts are that it would be real easy to think that you’ve cleared the tank of gasoline by just attending to the large chamber. Also, it might be real easy to get that little hole that communicates between the larger and small chamber plugged up so that gas can’t get out of the bottom outlet causing strange problems.
I guess I’m going to put an inline filter on my 126 when I get to that point. Still working on the engine.
Hope this helps. Hope this isn’t well known in the community.
Dave
I found out something this week that I hadn’t read about on the forum. Sorry if everyone else knows this but just in case….
I decided to clean my 126 gas tank using electrolysis using the method of Matt and others. Seemed to work great. Lots of red foam along with the usual excitement of using electricity around water. After a couple of days I decided to see what I’d done. Yep, lots of rust poured out of the tank and the inside surface was coated with a black coating. The process wasn’t complete, though. Nevertheless, I got a pen light and looked around inside through the filler hole. What I found surprised me. The baffle is really a floor to ceiling, wall to wall barrier! The tank is really two chambers with just tiny, barricaded holes at the top and bottom of the barrier. I thought that there was just a half-wall baffle in there.
Looking at the construction of the tank a bit closer I realized it is like three pots stuck together. Two are nested to form two chambers and the third is attached mouth to mouth. I’ve tried to diagram this below.
What this means is that electrolysis will never clean the inside chamber ‘cause you can’t effectively get an electrode in it. This also means that the gravel, BBs, screw method of derusting wouldn’t work on the inside chamber either. If fact, looking at the hole protectors there is a chance that you could plug them. I guess the only way to clean this thing is the HCl method that has its own problems.
Additional thoughts are that it would be real easy to think that you’ve cleared the tank of gasoline by just attending to the large chamber. Also, it might be real easy to get that little hole that communicates between the larger and small chamber plugged up so that gas can’t get out of the bottom outlet causing strange problems.
I guess I’m going to put an inline filter on my 126 when I get to that point. Still working on the engine.
Hope this helps. Hope this isn’t well known in the community.
Dave
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Dave S.-
Muriatic acid will go everywhere in that tank
Muriatic acid will go everywhere in that tank
Hi all,
I'm still banging my head on that 128, I'm hoping someone can give me an idea of where to look next... I decided to replace points/condenser/plug back in June, and it hasn't run right since. It will idle OK at few hundred RPM, but as soon as you try to give it some gas it starts to miss, then it runs fast for a few seconds, misses again, and so on - then dies. So far I have rebuilt the carb, replaced old points/plug/condenser, checked timing statically and with a timing light, replaced coil. The timing light was a recent purchase, and as soon as I used it I noticed that the light would not flash when the engine missed. When the plug does fire, the S mark is right in the center of the hole, so I think I've got the timing right. I figured a weak coil and replaced that, but no help. The battery is good, and the voltage across the battery jumps from 12.9 volts to 14.9 volts when I get it running at idle. The ammeter shows it is charging like crazy... it's almost all the way to the "C". Anything else I can check? I'm pretty sure it's electrical...
I'm still banging my head on that 128, I'm hoping someone can give me an idea of where to look next... I decided to replace points/condenser/plug back in June, and it hasn't run right since. It will idle OK at few hundred RPM, but as soon as you try to give it some gas it starts to miss, then it runs fast for a few seconds, misses again, and so on - then dies. So far I have rebuilt the carb, replaced old points/plug/condenser, checked timing statically and with a timing light, replaced coil. The timing light was a recent purchase, and as soon as I used it I noticed that the light would not flash when the engine missed. When the plug does fire, the S mark is right in the center of the hole, so I think I've got the timing right. I figured a weak coil and replaced that, but no help. The battery is good, and the voltage across the battery jumps from 12.9 volts to 14.9 volts when I get it running at idle. The ammeter shows it is charging like crazy... it's almost all the way to the "C". Anything else I can check? I'm pretty sure it's electrical...
The FedEx guy dropped my rear tires off today, which completes the set, but I only managed to get the fronts mounted, and ended up tearing up the fresh paint on the wheels fumbling with the tire irons. I got both of them mounted and back on the tractor for now, I'll touch up the wheels later. I think I'll take the rear tires up to my local mechanic who has a tire changing machine.
Here's a shot of the 102 with its new front shoes.
Here's a shot of the 102 with its new front shoes.
Bruce Nolte,
I'd like your thoughts. I'm running the same tire/wheel set up on my 104 and it seems to me that the steering is very easy. I don't know if it's my tractor or the set up. Do you think the steering seems easier?
I'd like your thoughts. I'm running the same tire/wheel set up on my 104 and it seems to me that the steering is very easy. I don't know if it's my tractor or the set up. Do you think the steering seems easier?
They actually work well in all this sandy ground up my way too.
As well as in the snow.
As well as in the snow.
Speaking of snow!
It's not gonna be that long before we're doing this crap again.
This was last winter before I had the real snow crew moved up. It was actually 32 below that morning, LOL
But it did warm up to 20 below that day.
It's not gonna be that long before we're doing this crap again.
This was last winter before I had the real snow crew moved up. It was actually 32 below that morning, LOL
But it did warm up to 20 below that day.
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Mike M-
Since you've tried everything else already, I'd try "hot-wiring" the ignition circuit by by-passing the ignition switch with some jumper-wires.
Run it like that for awhile, and see what you've got...
Since you've tried everything else already, I'd try "hot-wiring" the ignition circuit by by-passing the ignition switch with some jumper-wires.
Run it like that for awhile, and see what you've got...
Richard,
Its really too early to tell, I've only steered it a little around the garage last night moving it around, but it did seem to steer pretty easily. I've also upgraded the tie rod and drag link ends to Heim joints, and cleaned up and adjusted the steering box, so it steers pretty easy anyway
Its really too early to tell, I've only steered it a little around the garage last night moving it around, but it did seem to steer pretty easily. I've also upgraded the tie rod and drag link ends to Heim joints, and cleaned up and adjusted the steering box, so it steers pretty easy anyway
Hello Guys, I have been looking for the recent write ups on the headlight support upgrade using aluminum angle. I can't find it so if someone has the picture of how they did this I would appreciate it. The screen by itself just doesn't cut it. Thanks to any and all.
