Archive through August 12, 2004

[jpasko]

Hi all,
im new here,found your forum while searching the net for photos of K-301 engines.
mine is a 12 hp what i need is a photo of the valve springs while they are in the block i need to know what way the springs go in with the retainers and spacers,one is thicker then the other what valve does the thick one go on?,when i got this engine it was a basket case,i downloaded a manual off the site that makes the welder that its attached to,but thier photos were so dark that you couldnt see anything,so if someone here has some photos it would be great,thanx

 

[rmull]

John - check out www.kohlerengines.com, you can download the manual for FREE.

 

[jpasko]

I already have that manual,doesnt have any pics of what i need an what pics there is,is too dark.
I figured as many times you guys pull these motots apart,someone may know what parts go where.

 

[kmcconaughey]

John, this is all I have in the archive. I don't know if it'll help or not?

 

[wcompton]

John-
I think I can help-
If your valve spring retainers are two differnt thicknesses, one's likely a rotator for the exhaust valve, it'll pair up with the shorter of the two springs.

 

[mmasheris]

question for those in the know what size do you bore the cast iron axle housings to for fine spline axles that beasure 1.180 on the machined surface next to the flange.If i knew the bearing and seal numbers i can go from there.Twister 982 will thank you

 

[dschmidt]

Not a pulling question but Kohler/Cub Cadet xx8,9 Voltage regulator question: does any company still make the older style VR with the screw adjustments for charging rate rather than the current (no pun intended) spring tab ones that have to be bent to adjust? Seems like technology went backwards. Thanks. Dave

 

[wcompton]

Mike-
Iron Cub Cadet housings accept fine spline axles without modifications, that's exactly what I did on mine.

oops, do you mean you have bushing housings and want to bore them to accept needle bearings?

If that's the case, and someone has the IH part number, I've got an IH standard parts catalog with measurements that I can get them.

(Message edited by wcompton on August 26, 2004)

 

[mmasheris]

No these axles are 30 mm.They are the newer beefy type I have to spec some needle bearings and some seals then bore the iron tubes to fit.need all the beef Twister can handle.

 

[rmull]

Mike - One thing you could do is get the seals and bearing for the model tractor it came out of...like a 1864 I think.

 

[jlang]

Saw these interesting pullers at the Boone, Iowa Farmfest yesterday. These are part of an ASAE profect. They all are restricted to 16HP B&S V2 engines and Firestore 26-12-12 tires. Thought you might enjoy seeing them though.

 

[dfrisk]

JOHN - Guy that's been posting just down the page a bit from Your post knows ALL about those pulling tractors. I was AMAZED at the amount of Engineering effort they put into those tractors.

 

[wcompton]

I have no idea of who Denny's talking about

I sure hope that pulling sled's a lot better shape than when it was first put together (I'm sure it is) our first testing was done with suitcase weights in the box and we took turns PUSHING the box down the rails while the tractor pulled it, wasn't consistent, but sure helped shake down the tractor. Last we left it with a steering valve out of a 4400 combine, a 4-cylinder Kubota in a crate, and the steering for a Case combine working on the front.

Where's the pulling tractor with blue hood & fenders and yellow frame?

 

[jlang]

Here's a couple more shots I took of the other pullers.

Wyatt, I didn't see the one you asked about. (Blue & Yellow). I think I saw it at a FPS.

 

[jpasko]

Thanx Kraig an wyatt
that pic helped alot,got the springs an retainers in the right way,valve stem clearence is to factory specs as is points and spark plug gap,carb settings too,got a real hot blue spark lots of compression.getting gas thru the carb.i crank it with the starter and i dont even get a pop out of it,it will not run,got plenty of juice in the starter battery too,so what gives? ive never had a problem with any other types of engines running.kill switch is even disconected.anone have any ideas why this engine wont run?

 

[dkamp]

John-

If you've got compression, fuel, air, and spark, there's only one thing left that's required to have a running engine: Timing.

Grab a continuity tester (audible type). Make sure the ignition's off. Connect one lead to the coil's POINTS wire. Connect the other lead to ground. Rotate the engine- you should hear the multimeter's buzzer go off when the points close.

Now find the timing-mark access window (round hole in the flywheel shroud). Slowly turn the crank and look for an "S" mark. The buzzer should go off just as the S-mark goes by the window... if not, adjust the points so it DOES (yes, that means ignore the GAP setting!).

Disconnect the multimeter and see if it'll start now.

If not, give the carb a LIGHT shot of ether, and see if it'll pop, buck, or start. If it does, either your carb's not doing it's part, or the choke isn't closed enough to draw fuel during cranking.

Once you have it running, fine-tune the point-gap. Because of point-cam wear, point gap affects dwell and timing on the Kohler, so the baseline setting may, or may not work in an engine that's been run several hundred or more hours.

 

[bmoore]

John P,
"lots of compression"
If there's "lots," is it possible that the compression relief mechanism isn't working right? Maybe the plug fires blue when it's where you can see it, but when under a lot of compression, there isn't enough "juice" to jump the gap. Does the engine seem hard to crank?
"kill switch is even disconnected"
A kill switch and an ignition switch on a battery ignition engine? How is the kill switch rigged?

 

[dvogt]

I'd try a new spark plug if you haven't already

 

[dvogt]

Wel I've been busy lately trying to get ready for the NQS season. working alot on this

 

[dkirk]

Don,

Sweet!!! What's this one's name? How about a close-up of the engine?