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Archive through August 11, 2014
- Thread starter elincoln
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hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Ed "Hot Rod" Lincoln - hey it was great to finally meet you at the show, and to see Doug Barnett again. Thanks for posting those pics. Wish I would'a had a little more time around there. Got hung up telling stories to Doug, then watching the pullers (Couldn't hardly believe some twin cylinder Sears units were taking everything).
Brian W - picking up a QA42A for $50 is almost like stealing it what ever part of the country you're in - even Florida. A good gear box is really worth more than that.
Yes you have to run your tractor at full throttle to operate the thrower to it's best performance, and the Hydro infinitely variable speed is what allows you to fill the thrower with snow at the best rate. You'll pick it up really quickly - especially if you have varying depths of snow, like 2-3" up to 6-8 inches. The ole gear heads will be slipping the clutch and swapping gears around (and getting by pretty well).
If you're gonna dedicate a tractor to snow removal rather than getting a later model twin cylinder, I'd go with a 129 or 149 unless you can find a 169. With your weather temp range up there I think you'll find and S/G equiped unit will start quicker than the little integrated starter versions like your 1250.
Brian W - picking up a QA42A for $50 is almost like stealing it what ever part of the country you're in - even Florida. A good gear box is really worth more than that.
Yes you have to run your tractor at full throttle to operate the thrower to it's best performance, and the Hydro infinitely variable speed is what allows you to fill the thrower with snow at the best rate. You'll pick it up really quickly - especially if you have varying depths of snow, like 2-3" up to 6-8 inches. The ole gear heads will be slipping the clutch and swapping gears around (and getting by pretty well).
If you're gonna dedicate a tractor to snow removal rather than getting a later model twin cylinder, I'd go with a 129 or 149 unless you can find a 169. With your weather temp range up there I think you'll find and S/G equiped unit will start quicker than the little integrated starter versions like your 1250.
Storage question. Need to put a few tractors in storage and curious what the best way to do so to prevent rust in the gas tank. Would like to drain/run all the gas out but concerned with condensation. Should I just leave the gas cap loose for a little circulation? Just not sure - any thoughts? Thanks
Terry I turn off the gas and run the carb empty. I also use marvel mystery oil in my gas and don't have a problem with rust or bad gas. I sold a 122 yesterday that hadn't been started in almost 2 years and it started on the fourth revolution. Just my 02c.
Harry. Thanks. I think it was 400 cca. It was the largest mower battery AutoZone had. Duralast. I did the cross check on the solenoid yesterday. No motor turn over by doing the solenoid jump over. Do you think it is in the solenoid.? I don't understand why if you take the starter out and ground it to the frame the starter spins fast and you get and spark when grounding to frame. Thanks again Jerry
Terry, I second what Luther posted.
jchamberlin
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- Jeremiah Chamberlin
Jerry: Can you turn the motor over by hand, that is, does it spin relatively freely? If the motor is locked up or in a bind, the starter probably can't turn it. Be sure to check with and without the key on, because, as Nick Queensland pointed out, there may be an issue with the PTO switch if not the PTO itself.
Just a thought.
Just a thought.
nbextermueller
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- Nic Bextermueller
If your doing nothing to the tractor other than removing the starter and re-grounding it to the frame, then it appears to be a ground problem. I assume you are still using the key to see if it turns the starter once it's resting on the frame. If so, the PTO switch is not broken.
Try using some jumper cables, and using the black side only, clamp on end on the body of the starter and one to the ground of the battery. Try starting it that way. If it works your new ground cable isn't working.
When you get the starter to turn off the engine, does it try to jump out of your hand? With 400 CCA it should have huge torque. If not, I'd check your red cables as the starter my not be getting enough amperage to actually turn the engine.
And as said before, make sure the engine is not locked up or on a bad stroke by turning it by hand.
Try using some jumper cables, and using the black side only, clamp on end on the body of the starter and one to the ground of the battery. Try starting it that way. If it works your new ground cable isn't working.
When you get the starter to turn off the engine, does it try to jump out of your hand? With 400 CCA it should have huge torque. If not, I'd check your red cables as the starter my not be getting enough amperage to actually turn the engine.
And as said before, make sure the engine is not locked up or on a bad stroke by turning it by hand.
JEFF B, Gerry - Ummmm That 3-pin driver problem on gear drive tractors is a QuietLine ONLY thing. Been discussed many times here.
You guys need to take & keep notes on discussions!
IH made the back plate of the driver from thinner steel so it could flex and let the engine move around on the rubber mounts... WHICH let it crack and fail. Last discussion we had I remember someone replaced the Q/L plate with a standard plate from say a narrow frame tractor... and it's lasted 2-3 times longer than the OEM Q/L part already just because it can't flex.
Like I've said many times before, I'll NEVER own a Quiet-Line or an Original. 70/100 up to a Wide Frame, 1X8/1X9, or a red tractor, even an MTD 82 or 72 series, but NOT a Cyclops.
You guys need to take & keep notes on discussions!
IH made the back plate of the driver from thinner steel so it could flex and let the engine move around on the rubber mounts... WHICH let it crack and fail. Last discussion we had I remember someone replaced the Q/L plate with a standard plate from say a narrow frame tractor... and it's lasted 2-3 times longer than the OEM Q/L part already just because it can't flex.
Like I've said many times before, I'll NEVER own a Quiet-Line or an Original. 70/100 up to a Wide Frame, 1X8/1X9, or a red tractor, even an MTD 82 or 72 series, but NOT a Cyclops.
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Jerry - if you jumpered both large terminals on the solenoid and got nothing then your problem is not the solenoid. When you jumpered the 2 large terminals you by-passed the solenoid and since your engine still didn't turn over your solenoid is not the problem.
Sounds more like your engine may be locked up on a bad/hard compression stroke for some reason as Jeremiah said, or the starter just doesn't have enough power to turn the engine over or still a bad ground as Nic has said. Try what they recommended and get back to us.
Terry - if for some reason you decide to remove all the gas from the tank then I'd recommend shutting off the supply valve and removing the tank itself. Try to let the inside of the tank dry up some so any gas left has evaporated, then pour some oil in it and move it all around, especially upside down, to coat the inside of the tank. I don't know how long the oil might stick but at least you'd have some coating on it to stop rust developing from condensation.
Sounds more like your engine may be locked up on a bad/hard compression stroke for some reason as Jeremiah said, or the starter just doesn't have enough power to turn the engine over or still a bad ground as Nic has said. Try what they recommended and get back to us.
Terry - if for some reason you decide to remove all the gas from the tank then I'd recommend shutting off the supply valve and removing the tank itself. Try to let the inside of the tank dry up some so any gas left has evaporated, then pour some oil in it and move it all around, especially upside down, to coat the inside of the tank. I don't know how long the oil might stick but at least you'd have some coating on it to stop rust developing from condensation.
Hey to all. I took your advice and began looking over the stituation. I took a jumper cable and ran it from the battery neg post to the starter. It turned over good. I got to checking and realized I ran the new ground strap from the starter to the motor mount plate. Still had a rubber mount problem not letting the frame ground.. Put the ground strap the the frame outside the motor mount rail and that did it. Thanks for all the help and forgive my stupidity. Now I can continue my slow put back together maybe. I'm not as fast at 70 as I was at forty. LOL Jerry
kide
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- Gerry Ide
Brian W:
You're "saving" your 1250 for parades is a waste of a tough piece of equipment. From about '92 until 2012, my 129 served snow duty every year with both a blade ("ramming speed") and a 42" thrower. The Kohler has never complained and with over 700 hours on it, still doesn't burn oil between 50 hour changes.. Now if it was one of the "rare" 169's that looked like new (or better), I understand that the best use for them is parades...
You're "saving" your 1250 for parades is a waste of a tough piece of equipment. From about '92 until 2012, my 129 served snow duty every year with both a blade ("ramming speed") and a 42" thrower. The Kohler has never complained and with over 700 hours on it, still doesn't burn oil between 50 hour changes.. Now if it was one of the "rare" 169's that looked like new (or better), I understand that the best use for them is parades...
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Gerry - yup, your right about the best use of a 169 being in parades, and even better if they are on a float or trailer so you don't have to even run the engine. They sure last a lot longer that way
Jerry G - you're probably faster at 70 than you were at 40. It's just you've learned so much in between those years that you have to recall and that's what takes time. It's like a filing cabinet up there and keeps getting fuller, and that's why it takes longer to find it.
Jerry G - you're probably faster at 70 than you were at 40. It's just you've learned so much in between those years that you have to recall and that's what takes time. It's like a filing cabinet up there and keeps getting fuller, and that's why it takes longer to find it.
Harry if I had know you didn't want to drive your 169 in the parade at Monroe I could've picked it up with the grapple on the crawler and carried it for you
Ed L. thanks for posting the pics. It was good to meet you and see a couple of your collection
Harry there was one cub cadet that made a full pull of the loaded sled
Ed L. thanks for posting the pics. It was good to meet you and see a couple of your collection
Harry there was one cub cadet that made a full pull of the loaded sled
hydroharry
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- Harry Bursell
Doug B - dang it, I missed seeing that full pull by the CC. Was it a model 70 or 100? It is one area that I do think the Gear Heads
do have an advantage.
do have an advantage.
Harry,
I have a nice trailer that is painted 2150 Farmall Red with 935 White Fenders. The tie-down straps are yellow. The trailer pulls behind the 1250 Nightmare very nicely, and it is level on a level surface. This combination works well for parades. In the right situation, your 169 would look good on it.
Gerry,
While the 1250 Nightmare works well for parades, it also serves a wonderful purpose of cruising the neighborhood, and, on occasion, through the campus of North Dakota State University. It also is used in lawn care, dethatching and weed spraying; so it gets use beyond an occasional polish job. Yes, it is a tough piece of equipment, but I just can't bring myself to the thought of running that 37 year old engine to the max for too long. When I acquired it, that tractor took a lot of work to get it into the condition that it is now in, so that it can be used.
Special thanks to Harry for telling me: "Just keep working on it. You'll get it eventually." Many others offered their advice and assistance as well; and continue to do so.
I have a nice trailer that is painted 2150 Farmall Red with 935 White Fenders. The tie-down straps are yellow. The trailer pulls behind the 1250 Nightmare very nicely, and it is level on a level surface. This combination works well for parades. In the right situation, your 169 would look good on it.
Gerry,
While the 1250 Nightmare works well for parades, it also serves a wonderful purpose of cruising the neighborhood, and, on occasion, through the campus of North Dakota State University. It also is used in lawn care, dethatching and weed spraying; so it gets use beyond an occasional polish job. Yes, it is a tough piece of equipment, but I just can't bring myself to the thought of running that 37 year old engine to the max for too long. When I acquired it, that tractor took a lot of work to get it into the condition that it is now in, so that it can be used.
Special thanks to Harry for telling me: "Just keep working on it. You'll get it eventually." Many others offered their advice and assistance as well; and continue to do so.
