Archive through August 08, 2013

[lpalma]

That comes off the shifter tower.Kinda a pain but it can be done.

 

[jpierson]

Ok, I took the head off. I can push the piston down by hand. When I turn the driveshaft it will go back up, but would not go down.
Broken connecting rod I would assume? Can I just get another rod or would there be more damage to possibly find?

 

[jdonovan]

Never mind, I figured it out. The bottom piece(H-piece) pops off after some prying...Joe

 

[fcurrier]

Jeff: Broken conn rod sounds good from here. As to more damage, you've got to pull the oil pan off anyway so you might get to answer that question yourself. Mostly depends on what you find for pieces in the oil pan, I guess.

 

[tbdavis]

Joe, just curious if the cup attached to the shifter lever was broken off? If it was it may be possible to weld it back in place and if not, there is plenty of used stuff around. Good luck.

 

[asill]

Hello all,

I checked the faq and could not find one relating to my problem. I have a 1980 782 with the hydro controls mounted on the steering column. The column recently started "sliding down" from its original position about 1/4". I can raise it back to the original position, but it again will sink down, sitting deeper in the steering gearbox. Was it tack welded to the bracket behind the dash and the weld broke, or is this a problem with the gearbox allowing the column to sink or slide down? I just greased the steering box so I know theres grease present. I cant figure it out with the manuals I have. Any ideas?

Allen

 

[tcbusch]

Jeff,
I would guess the top of the piston separated from the top.

 

[bbranstetter]

A few more rebuilding pics from the KT-17 out of the wifes 782. Forgive me if there were any double posts.

Hopefully I'll get a start on putting things back together this weekend after I get out of work. I'm really hoping that it runs when I get it done.

 

[dfrisk]

ALLEN SILL - re: Sinking steering wheel. The steering column in a 782 is bolted onto a frame cross member that's spot welded to the frame, but only the steering tube passing thru the dash panel supports the upper end close to the steering wheel. I doubt that frame cross member has broken loose, but it would pay to check it. Side panel removal is required. Also check that both mounting bolts from the cross member to steering gear box are there and tight.

If this sinking steering wheel is a new problem, more than likely the ball thrust bearings are in need of service. There's a FAQ on the details of the steering gearbox rebuild. There's replacable stamped steel conical races that can wear and disintigrate. There's molded plastic ball separators that can break and let all the ball bearings gather on one side of the races and allow axial movements of the steering wheel & shaft. The parts are rather cheap, just a LOT of messy work removing the steering box & column and rebuilding the gearbox. Best way to test the gearbox end play for proper adjustment is to move the steering wheel clockwise and counter-clockwise and see of the steering wheel & shaft move up and down. You can see this easily by looking under the steering wheel where it comes out of the steering tube.

There is a big threaded diecast adjusting nut threaded into the bottom of the gearbox you can adjust movement like that out with, it's locked in place with a cotter key which needs to be removed. But if you have bearing, race, or separator problems just tightening the adjustment will cause LOTS of additional wear to your gearbox. BT-DT... and it's a complicated repair when that happens. Not even sure new gearboxes are available anymore, but the one I bought 8-10 yrs ago was over $300, about what I paid for the tractor it was for 20+ yrs before.

 

[thoffman]

Allen, Could it be that the bottom retainer (the part that screws into the gear box) has untreaded and fell out?

 

[digger]

Denny F.
Steering columns are still available, just not cheap!

 

[asill]

I checked the bottom adjustment screw-its in place and secure. All the mounting bolts are also secure. I found that there was a lot of grease around the plate but wasn't sure if that was related (ie all the grease leaking out from a bad seal=column problems). There is a lot of play in the box which leads me to believe I may need a rebuild anyway. Im just not sure if that is related to the column sinking. Im just trying to get to Oct so I can do some long term maintenance before the thrower goes on for winter. As for the adjustment, sounds similar to a auto steering box--it'll help with the symptom, but the cause is still there. So am I safe in assuming the column sinking is most likely due to internal wear, and not an easy external fix?

Allen

 

[kharvey]

Joe Donovan check the FAQ I think there is a write up on fixing your shifter.

 

[dfrisk]

ALLEN - If the sinking steering wheel came on suddenly, I'd suspect thrust bearing problems like I described, the plastic ball bearing separators breaking, the thrust races failing, etc. The thrust races are stamped hardened steel "Conical washers" which allow the ball bearings to run on them as opposed to the diecast adjusting nut on the bottom and on an inner shoulder on the top of the gearbox casting. Once the races fail the ball bearings run directly on the diecasting, which will only last a short time because of the pressure from the ball bearings, the diecasting is too soft and wears quickly making the casting unusable with out a LOT of work. And as Charlie said, they're still available but EXPENSIVE.

I'd plan on removing the whole steering column and gearbox sooner as opposed to later. Steering wheel removal is the hardest part for most people, there's a FAQ on that, then disconnect the tierod from the steering arm on the gearbox, then take the two cap screws out and it should drop right down and out of the tractor. You may need to raise the frt of the tractor up on a floor jack or jack stands to get it completely out. Make sure the tractor is secure, you'll probably need to be under it while it's raised. Mower deck removal is a Must!

The adjusting stud and lock nut on the steering arm on the side of the gearbox, about 2 inches away from the pivot bolt for the steering lever just adjusts the depth of the cam follower stud which controls the free play in the gearbox, the ability to turn the steering wheel left & right without moving the frt wheels. The big flat adjusting nut on the bottom, about 2" in diameter with one full width slot and several, 6-8 shorter slots, is the adjusting nut that controls the free play of the steering worm and shaft. There is a gasket or seal on the steering arm to gearbox surface. It's a foam rubber cushion that's "D" shaped, and a thin steel stamping that holds the foam cushion and the sides extend into the "D" shaped hole in the gearbox to secure it while the steering arm moves. Grease leaking from that seal is normal.

All the disassembly, assembly, and adjusting is best done with the gearbox horizontal in a vice. I've never tried it while the gearbox was still on the tractor, but it wouldn't be fun if it was even possible.

I've had gearboxes that were trashed, some badly worn, but I finally found one this spring that acted trashed and was in amazingly good shape, on the old 70 I refurbished. It was a replacement gear box from around 1970. The "Old one" split in half from the bottom corner of the "D" shaped hole around the back and other side when somebody got the left frt wheel of the tractor wedged under a 1000 gallon LP tank while mowing. Dad tied it up and hung it in a PROMINENT spot in the shop as a constant reminder that mowing a couple blades of crab grass wasn't worth the $100+ the new gearbox cost at the time. The seals, balls beaings, conical races, plastic separators were all in good shape in the new gearbox, but the grease looked terrible, I cleaned it up good, repacked it with grease, adjusted it carefully, installed the NICE 605 thrust bearing I bought for another gearbox but couldn't use, installed a good 3/4" wheel bearing in the top of the steering tube to locate the steering shaft and the 48 yr old tractor steers better than new.

 

[wshytle]

Yesterday I decided to try and go through a 149 trunion repair and have the tractor back together by days end. Everything went fine and I was sliding the frame back over the rearend when a storm came up. The bolt holes were giving me a time and not lining up well. I got all the tools and stuff put away just in time for a brief downpour. I did take some heat breaks and my niece came by with her husband for about an hour so I probably could have had it done if it weren't so dang hot. I went out this morning and for some reason the bolts went right in and it was back together in a couple of hours just taking my time. While doing it I found the usual PO stuff. The lift arm that attaches to the rear casting was upside down. It had been rubbing the nut for the height adjuster and has a slick spot there now. I didn't even realize it would work that way. It went in and curved up instead of curving down towards the rockshaft. I also removed the shifting rod in order to lube the bottom bushing and found the squeeze bracket broken. I wondered why it was so easy to move the shifter. My parts 129 supplied another bracket. I found a bolt instead of a pin in the clevis going to the brake rockshaft and from the cam plate. It had been bored out to 3/8" so I just made a 3/8" pin to go back in. All I lack now is the voltage regulator and the seat pan.

This is the 149 I picked up a couple of years ago as a roller for $175. I had a K321 on the bench I had just gone through so I had a nice tractor in no time. It has great paint and I need another mower so it got picked for the task. I did use it briefly in the garden some this past spring but I knew the trunion needed attention so now it's done.

 

[wshytle]

I got the 149 all together and took it for a spin then noticed it seemed to be running hot. I opened the hood and found mouse nest material everywhere. Grrrrrrr! I'm glad I didn't get it ready and just start mowing. It might be time to pull the engine after all.

I must have some lazy cats.

 

[bjamison]

1650 update: Bought a new battery this weekend. I'll start from there working my way through the electrical making sure all connections are clean and secure and see if I can get enough juice to the starter to get it to engage the flywheel. With any luck, I might get the tractor to start this week.

 

[bbranstetter]

Wow. Parts look up failed to run on my phone, my laptop and my desk top all in the same day. Dang the bad luck

 

[dschwandt]

You ain't the only one....I haven't ben able to get on all wekend. Just now tried w/no luck!

Dave S.

 

[jchamberlin]

Update on my 149 S/N 2050047U464260: I received a direct replacement muffler from a fellow Forum member and installed it last week. The muffler on my tractor had always been suspect, and after installing the new head gasket recently, I experienced back firing through the exhaust which fatally ruptured the old muffler:

After setting the timing and adjusting the carb as best I could, the back firing problem resolved itself, but the engine noise during normal running left my ears ringing.

Step 1: Remove heat baffle covering muffler.

Step 2: Remove muffler, but leave exhaust elbow in place. With the judicious use of a hack saw, I managed to get the old muffler off in three easy pieces:

I had been soaking the elbow with PB Blaster for a week prior so the elbow came loose while I was trying to get the muffler off, and it actually helped me get the stubborn collar off.

Step 3: New muffler was installed, with heat baffle soon following.

I was curious to learn how much better my "new" muffler worked as compared to my old muffler with the holes in it. I broke out my old analog Radio Shack sound meter and measured 88 dB on the "A Scale for the muffler with the holes in it; the new muffler came in at around 87 dB as measured approximately 3 meters (or 9 feet). Where the sound from the muffler with the holes in it was especially loud on the side with the holes in it, that is, at the exhaust port in the head; the new muffler succeeded in directing the greater portion of the sound out the other side, at the exit of the muffler, away from the exhaust port. Subjectively, the sound seemed SLIGHTLY muffled. After working the tractor last night, mowing the lawn, I can testify that my ears no longer ring, and that I can now hear the PTO springs rattling, and the engine knocking (or is it pinging) slightly. I will be curious to learn if the larger "Noise Suppression" style muffler improves the sound situation even further.