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Archive through August 08, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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PAUL, WES - We were just starting to get brown areas in the yard before the rain yesterday. The rain we got 2 wks ago during RPRU didn't amount to much, maybe 1/4 inch total over the three days. I don;t have a rain guage but I expect We had one to 1-1/2 inches also.

I mowed a bit a week ago on Saturday, just some new seeding Wife & I did on July 3rd. I mowed a bit more of the yard a couple days after RPRU but mostly trimmed the top off some crabgrass. Last time the whole yard was mowed was a month ago. I'm going to wait a couple more days and see if we get the rain predicted Monday before I think about mowing again.

I talk to my Buddy who lives around Moline and He's mowed every five or six days all summer.
 
Dave S.,
How deep down the cylinder are you measuring the bore?
Recall that the top 1/2" or bottom 1/2" is NOT the place to take your bore ID measurement.

As Bruce N. indicated, using a new ring, you check the gap, but do it down the cylinder an inch or more.
Use your old piston to push the ring down the cylinder the distance, that way it stays square to the block too.

If you have or can borrow an I.D. or telescoping bore gage, it would allow you to easily measure the bore mid-cylinder and that would also work instead of using a new ring and then measuring the gap. Here is a gage set: http://www.amazon.com/6-16-PRECISION-TELESCOPIC-GAUGE/dp/B000I8NDAS

Yes, you should also have a 3"-to-4" precise measuring caliper to measure the bore gage with. I'd check the bore in at least two depths, say 1/3 down and 2/3 down the bore, and at 90 degrees to the crankshaft - which is the angle where the most wear will occur. If you don't have access to these tools, you can still use the new ring process, it just will take you a little more time.

A little extra time spent now to do the "wear diagnoses" will give you more piece-of-mind when you make your decisions on what level of machining/conditioning is necessary and which parts to buy.

Good Luck and keep us posted on your progress!
Ryan
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Hello , I have a 61 cub. The question I have is when I am mowing there is a trail of grass clumps coming from the back right side of the deck. The deck is as level as I can get it. Any sugestion on how to fix it? thanks
 
John:
Ummm...Mow more often??????

(welcome to the forum!!)
 
John B. Are you running the engine at full speed? The decks on Cubs and most anything else are designed to function best with the engine at full speed,so that the deck can "clean its self out" Most decks have a curved baffle around the blades that help keep the clippings at the blades for maximum chopping. Some bolt in and some are welded. On my 126, which bolts in,most of it was missing when I got it. A new baffle is/was still available a couple of years ago. If you have the deck outlet toward the uncut grass,while mowing,and the grass is very tall the clippings can't "get away". If the grass is tall,try double mowing,Mow it high, then mow it lower on a second pass later.
 
John B..
sounds like the baffles in the deck are gone....
 
I recently purchased a Cub Cadet 782D and mine has the muffler facing forward. I have noticed that a lot of these have the muffler going straight up. Is this done for any specific purpose?
 
Thank you Charlie. That's just what I suspected. The PO must have lost the left side Hitch Bolt and made up his own config. and the right side didn't look right either - it has the correct shoulder bolt but it doesn't have the washer. Thanks, again, for taking the time to take and post the picture.
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Kenneth
 
TONY D. - Many people install the muffler on 782D's upright so they get the exhaust up above their head when operarating the tractor. Diesel exhaust can be Really nasty sometimes, makes Your lungs burn, eyes water, see little pink furry animals, etc.

I have heard it's common to break the exhaust manifold when the muffler is mounted upright. The lower forward position makes the tractor low enough to get under low hanging tree branches. Seems like I read something about there being a warning in the operator's manual about only running the muffle horizontal too.
 
Tony, they just plain look better,
Ryan, I've seen that setup before one at a show and the other in a guys garage. I always thought a PO had added the cam gear dip stick just to make checking the oil quicker, till I saw the directions stamped in the stem.
 
Thanks for the response about the 782D muffler. I agree it does look good in the vertical position, but I also agree with dfrisk that it could be broken off easier.I suppose then if you have low hanging branches you best leave it in the horizontal position.
 
Does the newer Cub 1535 use the same transmission as the older cubs? If not does the older cub transmission bolt in the 1535 frame?

Thanks
 
After a bunch of brainstorming, This is what I think should work well as a front spindle upgrade for a narrow frame axle. I wanted to try to keep the width as close to stock width as possible and have better bearings. I made the top steering arm fit to the spindle with a key to hopefully not have the wallowed out spiral problem again. Also added a little more camber probably more for looks than practicality. The new spindles are made from trailer spindles,milled off at 10 degrees with the kingpin holes at the same angle. What do you guys think? A special thanks to Charlie for the picture.
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<font size="+1">VERY NICE WORKMANSHIP, TODD W.!!</font>

Does that raise the front end up at all?

Ryan W
 
Oh joy....another day of t-storms. Rain rain rain allll summer. Every time I get the yard mowed it grows 8" in the time it takes to get the yard dried out enough to mow again. The bad part is I know how badly some of you guys need this rain. Had to make a dike last week and build the floor up in the cave to keep the water out, Cubs were parking in 2" of mud. I'll see tonight how it worked.
 
Tony D. My 782D came from the PO with the upright muffler. The day it was delivered it had bioWillie (biodiesel for all those not watching RFDTV).
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I remember driving down the street and smelling the fumes as I drove into the wind. For some strange reason I suddenly had the craving for French Fries or Chinese food.
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Actually, I like the muffler in the upright position. It does remind me of the bigger tractors.

Dennis F. Fancy has never said a word about seeing any little pink furry animals when he rides with me on the D. However after he's been in the catnip he acts a little spacey.

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hahahaha....callin for t-storms straight through Tuesday....gotta love NY

Todd...I like your idea for the upgrade. Did you bevel the spindle where it contacts the axle ?
 
I have a big project going on re powering a 1450 right now, knee deep in it, however my daddy has a 125 (or a 127 I forget) that is loosing power to the ground. It works fine for awhile, then no forward or reverse. He is thinking the worst of course, but just wondering if anyone has any pointers. I'm going to check the drive line, the check valves on the pump, and if that's not it pull the cover plate off for inspection. It does make a odd sound when it the problem starts, it's almost like a squealing sound, daddy thinks it's a clutch, but I don't think it has a clutch, maybe it does inside the pump ? That's what it sounds like though is a squealing clutch, let it cool off, and it's fine for another 30 minutes or so.

This cub has been restored body wise to top notch condition, and they done an out standing job, paint is almost perfect (the paint is, but a few sheet metal blemishes) and I really like the side mounted hood latches. Whoever restored it focused on the frame/metal as they done a complete restore, and rewired it, and also ran everything in a wiring harness protector, very professional, however it smokes, they put a stack on it (which I don't care for) and the transmission.. I told daddy he better fix this one the motor, and if it's the pump would be much less problems than starting from the ground up, and he is way ahead of me already. Any help or pointers on what the squealing with no forward reverse would be appreciated.
 

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