Archive through August 05, 2018

[rrschmitt]

David S,

Nice find on your new 70...and it even has options! I see lights, rear sleeve hitch and creeper (I think). Great Bonuses! Definitely not a parts tractor. Unless it has a thrown rod, with a little of your TLC, I'm sure you will have it running soon.

 

[dfrisk]

Larry K. - How big in diameter are the spindles on those 2 boring mills? I'd guess 4 or 5 inch?
Sometimes G&L was a little too amazed at their ability to make chips when there were better faster ways to make parts. They had a pretty good sized Blanchard grinder but they still milled blocks used to crowd parts against tables on. I worked at a company down in Bettendorf, Iowa that Blanchard ground EVERYTHING. And they made shear blades, big rectangular blocks of heat treated cast alloy steel. Hard to put 100 hp to work cutting chips but it's easy to grind with 100 hp.

40 ft between centers is a big lathe. I knew where a couple that size was around Moline, Ill and Davenport, Iowa years ago. Williams & White had a 7-8 ft diameter x 40 foot between centers. General Electric Service Center in Eldridge had a 12 ft diameter by 40 ft. They rebuilt a lot of huge electric motor armatures on it. Williams & White built huge hyd presses.

I heard about a vertical boring mill, Bullard, whatever you like to call them, forget what brand it was, had a 40 ft diameter table. Could park a school bus on it and swing it under the rail. It got disassembled, pieces set out in a field outside Madison, Wisconsin for a couple years, and eventually scraped!

Dave S. You should fix up that 70. It's in WAY too good of shape the part out or scrap. The one I fixed up 5-6 years ago was way worse shape, Dad had drilled 40-50 holes in the hood. Your's even has factory lights!

 

[dschwandt]

Don't worry guys, it will survive!
Just may not have some of the options on it though.
I have another that is up and running, I have been mowing w/it on occasion.

Will have to decide which one I want to restore as this one is FAR from up and running!

All the control cables are frozen solid, S/G at this point is a big ? mark, Fuel tank is a mass of rust as is the coil tower and the ends of the plug wire, driveshaft is really questionable. The lights are just that, lights with no wiring or switch, big holes rotted in the corners of the tower where the battery was rubbing it, and on and on...Hell, you guys all know the routine.

At this point, I am still in the evaluation stage!!

 

[preitman]

Good evening gentlemen! I am new to this forum and hoping someone can guide me in the right direction and provide some assistance. I just recently bought an IH CC 1450 from my neighbor and have been having no issues. Today while at work, my step-son was mowing and the tractor just stopped moving. It is now sitting behind my house and about as far away from my garage as possible. It starts fine, but the hydrostatic transmission doesn't work. Additionally, the hydraulic lift is very tight and hard to pull back, and lift's very slowly. I am sure I have a clog somewhere, in one of the check valves or something - as it just seems like that is the issue. So, I need to get this thing back into my garage to be able to work on it - but don't know how to safely push it with the hydrostatic transmission. Any tips, and if anyone has anything else I should look at, please let me know.

 

[proessler]

Paul , u may have lost a spiral pin in the drive shaft as 1 possibility.....

Does the lift still raise & lower?
Have u checked Hydro fluid level?

 

[preitman]

Yeah, I was just out there looking at it again, the roll pin holding the drive shaft to the pump shaft is rusted out and (now) gone, causing a very loose connection to the pump.

Yeah, it still lifted, just very slowly - again likely due to the poor connection.

 

[rrschmitt]

Paul R,

Welcome to the IHCC forum. Most likely one of the Spirol roll pins c/t your drive shaft has sheared off. There are three roll pins, one where the drive shaft attaches to coupler on the engine, one at rear of the drive shaft, and one c/t the cast iron coupler on the hydro pump. With the engine off and spark plug wire removed, remove the LH engine side panel and the tunnel cover between the steering pedestal tower and the fender assembly. Inspect the pins c/t the couplers to see if are missing. The pins may be there filling the hole but are shear internally so next try rotating the shaft by hand at the engine end while holding the coupler at the hydro pump and see if the shaft spins at the engine coupler. If so remove the remains of the pin at the front. If shaft turns at the front but spins at the rear of shaft or on the hydro pump, then you will have located the sheared pin that needs to be replaced.

Re pushing your 1450 to the garage, you can do so by pulling up on the little lever on the right side of the tunnel cover and then pushing tractor by hand. If there is no lever lever on the tunnel cover, then your 1450 is a later model and has auto dump valves so you can push it the garage. Towing a hydro is never recommended but pushing it manually is okay since you won't be pushing fast enough to cause damage to hydro.

Regarding your hydro lift lever being hard to push, it probably needs a few drops of oil where the handle shaft rotates in the steering tower. You will likely need to remove the gas tank and hood support bracket to gain access.

Regarding the slow lift action, first step is to replace the HyTran oil in the transmission and install a new hydraulic filter on the hydro unit. You will need to remove the rear cover plate to drop the old HyTran. Clean out the white gunk inside as HyTran suspends moisture in the oil to prevent if from damaging your hydro pump. You will need a new cover plate gasket, new filter and 7 quarts of HyTran which you can get from your local CaseIH or Cub Cadet dealer. Alternately, you can order them from the sponsors above as will in the colorful books at the top of the page.

For further reference, you can access the Frequently Asked Questions link here which has much helpful info as you learn more about your IH Cub Cadet 1450: http://cubfaq.com/questions.html

 

[danderson]

Paul-You can download a repair manual here:
http://ccmanuals.info/pdf/1x8-9%20&%20QL%20Service%20Manual.pdf

 

[preitman]

Thanks gentlemen, the problem was the roll-pin by the pump coupler was sheared off. Got a new roll-pin in and the unit runs fine again.

 

[etopel]

Paul-If you used a regular roll pin it won't hold up for long, it should be a spirol pin which is much stronger.