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Archive through August 04, 2010
- Thread starter ljones
- Start date
Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:
Matt, Don, A farm I worked at 10 years ago had a new loader tractor (off topic) that had a level gauge it was stupid simple. a rod was pinned a few inches from the pivot of the bucket. This rod went through a slightly larger pipe that was adjustable for and aft. Adjust the pipe so you can see the end of the pipe from the drivers seat. You set the bucket on the ground, level, and cut the smaller rod so it was even with the end of the pipe. On that loader it was on the left loader arm and came all the way back to the angle on the arm.
jdiederichs
Well-known member
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- Nov 9, 2004
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- 659
- displayname
- Jim Diederichs
Don,
About air gap, not a real issue with charging magnets, just note polarity and spacing between magnets. BTW, the factory position is to NEVER re-glue magnets due to the liability involved, lawyer stuff.
It is not uncommon for a charging magnet to loosen with age, often rust formed under it and popped it off. Many times the magnet will fall away harmlessly as it breaks into smaller pieces.
Charging capacity will drop off proportionally to the number of missing or weak magnets. A 15 amp system can lose a magnet and still have good output and you may never know it's gone.
As I mentioned, a flywheel that has been hammered on
or dropped
is most likely to have weak magnets, otherwise it is an extremely rare occurance for any Kohler flywheel to have weak magnets. It just has not been a problem with the Kohlers, unlike some "other" brands.
The "magnet/air gap" issue really comes into play on the breakerless/electronic ignition engines.{Magnum and Command series} The gap is critical between the magnet and the ignition module(s) on these, follow the manual closely.
Hope that clears it up? Have a great weekend
About air gap, not a real issue with charging magnets, just note polarity and spacing between magnets. BTW, the factory position is to NEVER re-glue magnets due to the liability involved, lawyer stuff.
It is not uncommon for a charging magnet to loosen with age, often rust formed under it and popped it off. Many times the magnet will fall away harmlessly as it breaks into smaller pieces.
Charging capacity will drop off proportionally to the number of missing or weak magnets. A 15 amp system can lose a magnet and still have good output and you may never know it's gone.
As I mentioned, a flywheel that has been hammered on
The "magnet/air gap" issue really comes into play on the breakerless/electronic ignition engines.{Magnum and Command series} The gap is critical between the magnet and the ignition module(s) on these, follow the manual closely.
Hope that clears it up? Have a great weekend
Art
If memory serves me right, Scott had the paint put in spray can by the Dupont dealer that mixed it, and it was not inexpensive as spray cans go. The 901 paint is pretty "green", specially when first sprayed, as it gets more exposure to the light/sun it doesn't really fade, but it kind of "mellow's out" some. I had a NOS gallon can of 901 that I had a sample computer matched by my local Dupont dealer and he came up with a 1969 Ford color Called New Lime as a match. I use that mixed in Nason Ful-Cryl (acrylic enamel) for 901 painting. Nason is Dupont's less expensive line of paint. The white on the recoil start model 72 you had that came from me was painted with some of that NOS 901 paint.
If memory serves me right, Scott had the paint put in spray can by the Dupont dealer that mixed it, and it was not inexpensive as spray cans go. The 901 paint is pretty "green", specially when first sprayed, as it gets more exposure to the light/sun it doesn't really fade, but it kind of "mellow's out" some. I had a NOS gallon can of 901 that I had a sample computer matched by my local Dupont dealer and he came up with a 1969 Ford color Called New Lime as a match. I use that mixed in Nason Ful-Cryl (acrylic enamel) for 901 painting. Nason is Dupont's less expensive line of paint. The white on the recoil start model 72 you had that came from me was painted with some of that NOS 901 paint.
mgonitzke
Well-known member
Art-
I'll try bypassing the ignition switch today after I retorque the head and see if that helps.
Here's the differences in the side panels.
IH side panel: (note the interference issue I'm having)
CCC side panel:
I think there is also a third variation that has the longer tab like the CCC panel but without the forwardmost hole. This is discussed in a service bulletin (S-4548) dated April 25, 1983.
I'll try bypassing the ignition switch today after I retorque the head and see if that helps.
Here's the differences in the side panels.
IH side panel: (note the interference issue I'm having)
CCC side panel:
I think there is also a third variation that has the longer tab like the CCC panel but without the forwardmost hole. This is discussed in a service bulletin (S-4548) dated April 25, 1983.
PAUL, ART - I checked the FAQ's for the paint info. a week ago. My 70 should be 901, 72 should be 902. Wasn't going to buy both so settled on something close to 902. The PPG numbers listed in the FAQ's didn't transfer over to the paint system We are using so oddly enough we ended up with a Ford color also.
I agree, 901 has a "greenish cast", 902 is actually a fairly "Clean" off-white, 935 has a really tannish tint to it. It works in combination with the 2150 red on Farmall's & the 82-series but in my opinion, a whiter off-white looks better with the 483 yellow on CC's.
I'm WAY past-due on my "Correct Police Dues" so like many here don't really mind something that isn't "Factory Original", but try to make improvements where possible. My Buddy repainted his CC 107 yrs ago with left-over JD Construction Yellow, and Rustoleum off-white. It actually looked really good. I think DAD used some CAT yellow on the 70 sometime in the last 25 yrs, places where it's chipped or worn off the paint underneath looks much more yellow than the top coat.
I agree, 901 has a "greenish cast", 902 is actually a fairly "Clean" off-white, 935 has a really tannish tint to it. It works in combination with the 2150 red on Farmall's & the 82-series but in my opinion, a whiter off-white looks better with the 483 yellow on CC's.
I'm WAY past-due on my "Correct Police Dues" so like many here don't really mind something that isn't "Factory Original", but try to make improvements where possible. My Buddy repainted his CC 107 yrs ago with left-over JD Construction Yellow, and Rustoleum off-white. It actually looked really good. I think DAD used some CAT yellow on the 70 sometime in the last 25 yrs, places where it's chipped or worn off the paint underneath looks much more yellow than the top coat.
- Joined
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- Messages
- 2,912
- displayname
- Allen Schumacher
Gentlemen-
I need to know if the bushing for the cam pivot looks to be right. This goes on the 129 and the part number (parts look-up) is IH-394048-R1. It didn't come in a package with a part number but that's what it's suppose to be. Does it look right? It looks to be too small to me. I don't remember the one on the 149 having this much of a gap.
Tha second picture obviously shows it before installed. Is it suppose to have that much gap? Harry.....? Matt? Gerry? Anybody?
Thanks......Wayne
I need to know if the bushing for the cam pivot looks to be right. This goes on the 129 and the part number (parts look-up) is IH-394048-R1. It didn't come in a package with a part number but that's what it's suppose to be. Does it look right? It looks to be too small to me. I don't remember the one on the 149 having this much of a gap.
Tha second picture obviously shows it before installed. Is it suppose to have that much gap? Harry.....? Matt? Gerry? Anybody?
Thanks......Wayne
