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Archive through August 03, 2004

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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Kraig,

Do you have a chart with the gears/speeds for a 128 as well?????
 
Steve, I have the service manual for the 86-1650, I'll get the specs posted in a minute or 10.....
 
Here 'tis,

20705.jpg


20706.jpg
 
Well, for what its worth, I'm back from our vacation in the "U.P." Our base of operations was Grand Marais, MI. Did some fishin', hiking. Rode the Toonerville Trolley (an old 2'0" logging narrow gauge-turned-tourist railroad). Boated down the Taquemenon(sp) river. Saw black bear, Kingfishers (amazing animals), Loons (also amazing), and coyotes and deer. Kids had a blast. Went for a dip in Superior. (Thought appendages were going to snap off). Saw a freighter go through the Soo locks. Also saw some cool shipwrecks off Au Sable point. Beautiful Country up der.
 
Steve, no chart. But here's what the parts lists states:

1st/rev sliding 13 tooth
2nd/3rd sliding 17 tooth/26 tooth
Rev idler 22 tooth
Rev gear 35 tooth
1st gear 39 tooth
2nd gear 35 tooth
3rd gear 26 tooth
 
RAY - No trip over to Mackinaw Island for some fudge?
 
Kewl!!
A Kohler K161S just appeared in my trunk. I guess I have a temporary engine for Foxtrot.
crazy.gif


It brought along a cute little Wisconsin with it too.
 
Kraig- the note about insufficient wire size isn't a myth. In higher-power electric motors, any limitation of input current causes a drop in input voltage. In synchronous AC motors, this causes the motor to 'drag', which causes the windings to demand more current (at the lower voltage), and they get pretty darned hot. Submersible pumps are "usually" cooled by presence of water jacket, which keeps the entire assembly's temperature stable, but the windings will get points of very high temperature, either melting the shellac insulation or burning windings open. The other thing that happens, is that a capacitor-start synch. motor will never get up to correct operating speed, hence, will run continuously on the starting capacitor. Eventually, the capacitor exceeds it's duty cycle, and burns out, causing the motor to just growl and draw current. I've repaired quite a few motors that killed starting caps, just by swapping out the starting cap and burnishing the changeover contacts (if they existed), but fried windings are fried windings.

Using heavy gauge wire (ESPECIALLY over long runs) cures that problem in a hurry. Also- same holds true for DC motors (and motor-gens)... if you've got a lame connection or bad cable, your motor's brushes will take a royal beating, and the motor will be weak.

Another (unrelated, but interesting) note, is that it's not unusual for a circuit breaker to blow with no apparent overload... if the wire connection isn't solid at the breaker's terminals... the breaker is thermally-operated, and heating of the wire as a result of the terminal not being tight... will cause the breaker to trip... in the same realm as weak wiring. How's the song go... "Loose Wires... Cause Fires..."

On to real news- I'm enjoying a nice few days working here in Hornell, NY... already visited one cubber, flying back home tomorrow to resume work on my marine railway... and to get my NEW (to me) loader installed on Loader-Mutt!!! Yippeeee!

The bummer is... no internet at the hotel... so I can't check mail or forums much... :-\
 
Nice storms Tuesday night. Lightning hit the modem on the computer so it is hard to read everything. Just have to sneek on here during work. New modem should be here tomorrow or Monday. I checked out the K321 yesterday and found the cam to have .013" movement. Book says it should be between .005-.010". I don't think this is my noise but I could be wrong. It will get a shim just for good measure along with new rings and new rod. I only have about 1.5 months to get this unit ready to go. Sounds like a long time but it will be here before you know it.
 
Not to call the actual International Harvester Cub Cadet golden manual a big hairy liar

<font size="+2">BUT</font>
20710.jpg


It's a fuzzy picture but none of us are blind!
 
Wyatt
Depends on what book you look at. Narrow frames are 13/46 tooth according to the parts manual, wide frames are 10/46 tooth according to the parts manual.
 
Paul-
That pinon gear was out of an early 70, all the spiral bevel sets interchange so the pinons all have to be alike. There's no one-up or one-down gear cutting from like blanks for spiral bevel sets.

IMHO the books must have just been wrong for the narrow frame years.
 
Ok, so no ideals on how to level the deck on a cub or how to tighten the subframe..

so then does anyone know of a book or manual I might get that might help..
I was told that if ther was anything I wanted to know about a cub this was the place to come to find out.. so Im tryin..

Thanks
 
Henry,

Your question needs more explaination. What side of the deck is low, front, back, sides????
 
henry, you need the operaters manual , 38-42 and 48 in. 3 spindle rotary mower manual. 1 083 282 r1. rev.2 1/70 this will tell you everything you need to know. tom b.
 
hey thats the one digger. i was guna post a pic, but there's no place to put an attachment. iv'e got a webtv and don't have a problum across the street posing a pic. how do ya do it? tom b
 

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