Archive through August 02, 2004

[jmacdonald]

Going to half answer my own question. I think I will try to get a new coupler and pin, and hope the hole in the shaft to the hydro is not enlarged. I'll try one of the sponsors.
jimmac

 

[fwatson]

Jeffrey, Tom & Kraig
Thanks for the Information.
Removed the Blue Seat Ring & have not started on the starting problem yet. Is the Wiring diagram for a 104 the same as the above one for the 72?
The last owner said he changed the coil on the 104. Does that have to be a coil made for a Kohler?
Later
{:-{)
with 2 CCs in SE VA.

 

[thoffman]

Tedd,
Been buzy doin' what, playing in the dirt with the Tonka toy?

 

[thoffman]

Following Wyatt's lead with the 'Ol IH colors on the Brinly plow. Prett much the same, but dirreremt lettering.

 

[sblunier]

Walking drvieshaft roll pins can be kept in place with a safety wire thru the bore of the pin.....tied around the shaft.

 

[stanner]

Wyatt,

you forgot one...

talking about anything cub with the forum guys- PRICELESS

 

[sblunier]

Richard C.

Yup, the discharge baffle is a "wall hanger"!!!!!! Gators and a step-up pulley really make the grass fly when the baffle is gone!!!!!

BTW, DITO on the 50" decks....too light for their width without work...I've worked on a few myself, and they don't hold up to use as well as the 44's do. 48" decks also seem to fall into the "flimsy" group...rear gauge wheel strength sucks!!!

 

[rmunday]

Doh! Wyatt & Jason - someone here emailed me the phone number of a guy that rebuilds them for around $350...

I'll try and dig it up.

 

[wcompton]

Tom-
<font size="+2">VERY</font> nice! I got ahold of a set of those McCormick decals from Theisen's (about like a Farm & Fleet around here) but then got a couple of IH decals from The Depot instead. If there's anything else you need just let me know I'll be glad to help if I can.

(Message edited by wcompton on August 02, 2004)

 

[dtiernan]

jimmac,

I think the shaft on the hydro is hardened and shouldn't have much wear unless it has been run with a worn coupler for too long. The coupler being softer is usually the thing that wears. A new coupler and correct roll pin should fit tighter.

<FONT SIZE="-2">IMO, FWIW, YMMV, My $0.02, Yada, Yada, Yada...</FONT>

 

[dkamp]

Well, my network's back in the land-of-the-living... turns out the problems weren't here... they were down the line somewhere, but back on.

But good news:
I Got a Loader- I Got a Loader! :-D

 

[jmacdonald]

Went out with a flaslight to look at the coupler, and shaft. The coupler defintely should be replaced. The shaft going toward the hydro is pretty shiny and looks like it steps down a litle. It's a loose fit in the coupler. I assume this is from the coupler spinning with no pin. Would it hurt to replace the coupler and pin with the shaft like that? Or is it just a simple matter of will the new pin fit tight into the shaft? Does this shaft normaly have a little slop inside the coulper anyway or should it be a snug fit?

I am beginning to realize that to replace the coupler that I would need to pull something apart and if I am going through all that maybe I should stop goofing around and replace the shaft while it's all apart. While I do this I want to fix that "Hydro Speed Creep" from the FAQ.
jimmac

 

[dkamp]

Hi Jim! You'd best eliminate as much slop as you can- slop there will be translated into the spi-rol pin, sooner or later the slop will cause it to shearing off... more likely sooner than later. If it was the driveshaft side, you could simply weld up the worn spots, then sand it down to original diameter, but taking that apart means you'll be exposing the inner workings to abrasives, and if you leave it together, you'll be burning up the seals. Tryn' make that coupler fit tight, and if it's still sloppy, mebbie it'll secure in with the right formula of loctite?

(Message edited by dkamp on August 02, 2004)

 

[jmacdonald]

Dave thanks for the info. I was looking at the TC-113 and it appears that I would not need to open anything up. It looks like the drive shaft bolts to a flexible coupling just before going into the hydro. Unless I am mistaken (wouldn't be a first for me!) I wonder about the aftermarket parts I see "will they stand up"?
jimmac

 

[jdonaghy]

Got my first cadet at auction s/n351530 - R7 where can i find an operators manual and a shop manual?

 

[mbounds]

John D: Try reading the FAQ---# 8 in particular.
Myron B

 

[kmcconaughey]

Frank W., yes the wiring digram is the same for your 104.

Tom H., very nice job on the plow!!!

Jim M., yes there is a rubber/fiber disk connection between the drive shaft and the hydro. Here's one from a 125 that I have.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Here's another view, this being a top view. Note that the engine end of the driveshaft was not supported in this photo so the disk is being bent down by the weight of the drive shaft.

 

[sblunier]

BUT..... You can't just pop the two bolts out of the flex disk and lift the driveshaft out.....it's piloted in the coupler and will almost always require that the motor mounting bolts be removed and the motor slid forward/tilted to get the shaft out.

I would not mess with the hydro input shaft, just replace the cast couplers, spirol pins and flex disk. Make sure you support the bottom of the driveshaft with a bottle jack when installing the spirol pins.

 

[gnofs]

Hi
I am a Newbe!
I am reduing a 1965 IH Cub Cadet for my Grandson. Has all accessories.
My question is: Was there or is there a "Service Manual for the IH CubCadet with all spec settings? Thanks Gordon