Archive through August 01, 2007

[mbounds]

Richard T: Thrust buttons on all versions (#14 here) are metal(steel). The OEM wear buttons are carbon fiber. The brake version does not have one...it's replaced by the brake shoe.

Myron B
CCSupplyRoom

 

[nbextermueller]

So if #14 is steel, what is #30 made out of.

The #14 on mine is steel, and at some point my dad put a bolt in place of #30.

They now look like someone took a grinder to the both of them.

 

[cscannon]

Pops: Are you talking about the threaded rod that connects to the clutch release lever? If so, I can not adjust that nut. The threads are messed up on it beneath the tension spring. When the clutch petal is fully released and the clutch is engaged the release lever is putting absolutely no pressure on the throw-out bearing. When the clutch petal is pushed down the clutch disk is completely free of the rear most pressure plate.
I hope this makes sense.

cscannon

 

[rtunison]

Thanks Myron. Now that I've done more research (and closly examined the manual)on the PTO's it's obvious they would have to be steel to do what they do. I'm eagerly awaiting the parts so I can make the PTO right again. The brake shoe itself has about a skinny eighth left of the wear material. I'd like to reline it myself when needed.... any tips or tricks on doing this?

Thanks again,,, Richard

 

[jharvey]

Nic
Part 30 is steel and should be a type of flathead bolt that fits in the countersunk hole in part 31. With that recessed fit and ample brake material on part 31 there should be no contact between parts 30 and 14. If any contact was made with part 14 it is probably toast now and you won't be able to keep the snap ring and wavy washer on it. JH

 

[mgonitzke]

Christopher C.-

With the pedal released you should be able to reach under there and spin the throwout bearing. If you can do that I think you might be down a couple of possibilities. One, your friction disc may look okay, but it might be glazed from slipping. You don't ride the clutch do you? Also, you'd be surprised how much runout pressure plates that "look" good will have. When I rebuilt the clutch in my 128 the pressure plates looked great but when I put them into the lathe to clean them up I put a dial indicator on out of curiosity. They were more than .010" out of flat and had about .020" runout from the center to the edge. I think I had to remove just over .030" to get them to clean up. If that's not the problem, I'd suspect that your main compression spring has gotten weak with age. As a "band-aid" fix you can add a couple of 5/8" washers between the spring and the rear roll pin that holds tension on it to compress it more. If it were mine though, I'd pull it all back apart, replace the driveshaft if necessary, relube or replace the t/o bearing, replace all spirol pins and main spring, and get a new friction disc and true up the pressure plates in a lathe. The parts cost about $125 from a dealer but it is well worth it. Both my worker gear drives have new clutches in them.

 

[bcorn]

Christopher: Yes I am! Also if that is an orginal clutch, even if it looks good the face's might be worn.

Pops

 

[rmeier]

I have some questions about a 147. I have seen where power steering pumps have been bolted on to make a hyd unit. Is there a "easy" way to tap into the hydro pump I already have? I want to have a lift for the front blade.

 

[tcbusch]

Reid,
The 147's hydro is not ported so you cannot use it to power anything external. You could find yourself a ported hydro, mount an external pump, buy a self contained hydraulic lift, or buy an eletric lift. All of the 147's that I have came with electric lifts from the factory.

 

[jcrews]

Hi , I've got a very tired K301 on my 1250. I bored it out to .30 over it runs but maybe I should have gotten another, I've never seen one leak like this even after 3 different oil pans,new gaskets,.I think the metal is tired. What is the largest engine I could put on the quiet line without a major alteration? Thanks

 

[jcrews]

Hi again, Charlie do you have any detailed photos of your 3324 cub cadet walk behind mower. Do you have pic of the control arm for to engage the transmission to the wheel? Thanks for any help

 

[digger]

James ole buddy ole pal.
Did we forget what page we were on?

And you can put a K341 in it and make it a 1650 with manual lift.

 

[jcrews]

I was afraid you would say K341. No hope for 25 hp?

 

[jcrews]

I'm sorry I forgot what page I needed to go on, but since I saw your pics on this page... My Mistake! I already put a hydraulic lift on the 1250.

 

[jkoenig]

James,
What kind of oil have you tried? You may find better luck with a different viscosity or synthetic vs. dino oil assuming there are no flaws in sealing surfaces.

 

[jcrews]

Thanks Jim, but I believe this motor would leak maple syrup in 0 degree weather. I've done everything short of coating the entire motor in Form-a-Gasket

 

[jkoenig]

Mebbe you're right, it's junk. I better take it off your hands.

 

[bbowman]

A question for the hydro gurus!My 1650 is back home after a friend decided he didn't like "whiners",so I'm going to tackle fixing the "puddle" problem it has .I've done the leak troubleshooting in the FAQ'S, and am pretty sure it's leaking from the "cork gasket". My question is while I have the pump out,should I replace all the seals or leave well enough alone? If it ain't broke....,thanks for any input,Bob.

 

[pdorow]

B Bowan,

Replace all the seals, just make sure you follow the disasembly procedure when removing the swash plate shafts.

 

[mdomenic]

Bobby, I wouldn't, unless you are really sure the seals were leaking. I replaced my 125 cork gasket about 10 years ago with a cork gasket and have been leak free since.