• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through April 30, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Front wheel bearings:
I did check the end play when I installed the wheel. One side has no end play, but still turns easy the other side has a slight end play probably around a 32th. I am going to try and find another shim to try and get rid of that end play. I am still trying to find some shims that might work.
I will pull the wheel mid summer and see what it looks like and will let you know.
Thanks again
Earl
 
Rob,

I somewhat agree with Scott on welding, but only in the weld all away across the one blade. That would be the blade that is under the other. The process of welding can harden (brittle), cut into, weaken, etc. the base material adjacent to the weld. Welding would be an acceptable means of fixing the blades together, just only 4 beads 1/2" long that are not located at any edge. The welds could be in say 1/4" in from the edge. There is some risk in the blade fracturing along that weld, how much risk depends on several factors, too many to list.

Would I use those blades, NFW.

The Gator blades are better than factory, but only by a little. Keeping them sharp is more important. If you try to cut too much grass off at one time, it will always look like crap. Many professionals mow the grass twice the same day (criss cross pattern) once a week to make it look good.

Some of the newer decks have openings in the shell/housing around the spindles. This allows air to be drawn in and therefore helps exhaust the clippings better. I had a crappsman (made by Husqvarna) several years ago and I will admit it was much better at mowing than the IH decks.

Jim
 
There's a company in Dekalb Il. that makes some cool quad blades for mowers.
I had a set made for my 44A and they did great.
http://www.mlmliftsandmfg.com/products/blade4-lawn-mower-blades/
296287.jpg

296288.jpg
 
Charlie - I was wondering when you might pipe in but never figured you'd be adding big ole "XXX"s to the conversation
 
Better than <font color="ff0000">&#149;</font><font color="ff0000">&#149;</font><font color="ff0000">&#149;</font><font color="ff0000">&#149;</font> dots, LOL
 
All-thanks for the input on the blades. I knew of the 4 blade swinging sets made my MEGMO and others, but they are expensive. Most blades are hardened material all the way thru, if you take a drill bit and try to drill a hole in the metal your going to just burn up bits. BTDT. I got a whopping 60 bucks in my setup and will try it out carefully. I doubt the blades will fracture cutting grass. A huge impact onto a solid object maybe but so would a conventional blade. The weld was done by a certified Pressure vessel welding friend of mine to be consistent and maintain balance.
 
Rob - My reaction was the same as a coupleo f others - if I was welding across a blade's surface, I'd want to heat treat it afterwards to remove internal stress. just sayin' (also, I've considered it in the past, just never took the next step, so congratulations on following through on an idea)..

As to Gators, I put a set on the 48" Sc*g Tiger Cub and even with the high lift design of that deck, thought I was losing lift (that deck has a movable "dam" on the front side of the deck that can be raised and lowered, I leave mine fairly low for improved lift...)..
 
Rob, About two years ago I made that same modification to the deck on my 782, I found some blades the same length with a different offset. My cutting edges are less than 1/16" from each other. I drilled a 1/4" hole in both sides of one blade and installed soft bolts with a nut and then peened the bolt end to prevent coming loose. The bolts keep the blades at 90 degrees when mowing. I did that so blades could be replaced individually and would hopefully shear the bolts if I hit something solid. It doesn't seem to take a lot of extra power in heavy grass but it does put out about a 5 or 6 foot long stream of clippings. I only used it one full season cutting our church weed patch but I haven't seen any wear beyond normal on anything yet. I am pleased with the overall results. I did repower with a V twin before the hill killed my KT17 series one. My estimate of about the same power requirements could be off because of that.
 
Charlie P. I need to look into a set of those. Or just get a circles cut and install hay mower blades onto them.
happy.gif


Finally some seat time today.... Everyone ahve a wonderful weekend.
296294.gif
 
David C - sounds like you figured out a simple solution that works. Any chance you can get some pics of your blades?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top