Archive through April 30, 2013

[chaines]

Don:

I did not fill the filter so I need to look at that. I may need to pull the rear end again to get into the valves. I was wondering about using an electric drill to run the hydro with it suspended off the ground and the tires removed.

Thanks for the input and will work on it over the next couple of days.

 

[tbdavis]

Hey all - checked a guy tonight on a 123 and he said once it warms up it starts blowing smoke out of the breather cover - not the muffler. Any thoughts?

 

[fcurrier]

So, Carson in California, we shall take you under our wings from clear across this country and into another one. We think our Cub Cadet pickings are slim, I think yours are nearly non-existant.
Don knows too much and tends to get quite technical. The check valves I'm thinking of are the ones on top and to the front of the hydro pump. They should have "buttons" sticking up about 1/4" on each one. Are those buttons up or down to the point of being flush or nearly flush with the top of the valve?

P.S. Now and then we get a "ghost post" I just found one. It happens when someone posts, then deletes their own post (been there, done that-- didn't get a T-shirt). Maybe Patrick Haswell will come back?

 

[dtanner]

Carson Haines

A drill was used before to spin the pump. If you can just loosen one valve that might help also.

 

[dtanner]

Good thought Frank. Here are pictures of both hydro valves. The ones with the button on top are manual release ; if the little button is stuck down the hydro pump will not make pressure and the wheels won`t turn .

The manual valves with a button.

and the auto valves with no release button

 

[mmiller]

Does anyone know if these stakes might be IH made, or if they are probably a PO add-on?

 

[hydroharry]

Frank, Mike and Do-Da - hey my son will be at that show over in Colchester on Sat. He'll be trying to thing his herd. He's got a pretty decent No. 1 cart that he wants to move, and an old Model 70 that runs but is tired, that has the large battery box. He'll also have what he calls a "Twin Stick 1450" (has the front hydro outlets) that he just never has time to get to. Pretty decent overall tractor. And he'll have the spring utilities like the Brinly cultivator and disc, and a plow, that he'd like to move along. Should be a good show. Usually draws alot of people and lots of displays and items for sale. I also understand there will be a long lost Forum member with him, who is one of the original 2 involved in rebuilding my 13 fin K341A and re-installing the balance gears, which I think he no longer recommends. To bad he's 3000 miles away from my K341A, especially since it runs so great, and honestly seems fairly smooth so I'm really torn about removing them or leaving them in. Frank, if you change your plans and do go I'll bet your 123 fever subsides for awhile.

 

[fcurrier]

Don: I think we've done the best we could for tonight. It's a lot earlier in California than it is in Nova Scotia!
Before I leave, though, did you know that this Forum has "ghost posters"? I was close to telling Patrick Haswell that his 128 conversation belonged here and as far as I can see his post disappeared, although it's still registered that he posted. That's happened to me before when I deleted my own post. Maybe before I stumble through this post he'll repost. I think we need newcomers (read "new blood") and I really miss the posts from "the kids" like Josh Ott and Matt Krill (although he's stepping in now and then).

May God bless, and "Goodnight, Mrs. Calabash, wherever you are".

Hey, Harry: I know how to edit without adding a post. My 123 fever has subsided, I'll admit. I'll always have at least one, though, if just because they introduced the hydro trans to the CC garden tractor line. Getting older, now, and really liking the hydraulics on the 149s. And it's STILL earlier in California (and Washington) than it is here on the RIGHT coast.

 

[hydroharry]

Frank, Mike and Do-Da - forgot to post the pic of that No. 1 Cart you can see at the Colchester show. Frank, can't be more than a few hours for you to get there. You can work on that 123 the next rainy day.

 

[chaines]

Thanks for the information and support. The valves are the manual ones and stick out about 1/4" above the flat. They move up and down if you push on them.

I am thinking I may split the tractor apart again so I can get to things and I hope I can spin it with an electric drill for testing.

From looking at the drawings of the pump/motor it looks like you can fill the pump/motor thru the holes the valves mount in.

Thanks again for the ideas and will be picking at this over the next couple of weeks.

Carson

 

[bwittman]

As long as we are talking about Rear Ends, HyTran and the like, this past Saturday, I started my 1250 Nightmare for the first time since Thanksgiving, 2012. It fired off without the aid of starting fluid, a battery charger or the loss of temper.

Of course I let it warm up very well, checked the air pressure in the tires, checked the engine oil and Hytran levels and took it out for a short hike. After returning and giving the tractor (and myself) a break for about an hour, I drove it on the streets for about three miles. When I got home, for some reason I felt the differential, and the outside felt warm to me. It wasn't burning hot, but there was some heat generated in that 45 minute ride. Is this something that is normal, or should I be concerned with the heat generation. I want to change the Hytran and filter this summer, because I don't know when it was last serviced.

Somewhat related, the reverse seems a bit sluggish. Do I have a sticking valve, or a trunnion that might be failing? Will fresh Hytran help this situation?

Is there any advice?

 

[dtanner]

Brain - It is normal for the hytran to get warm after a run like you posted. The hytran is under pressure and is forced through small passages and that will make it warm to touchable hot on the rear end case. That is normal. Your slow reverse might be a sticking valve if you have the manual relief type and have used them after your run.The relife valves are for moving the tractor when the engine is not running and should have no affect when the buttons are up in the manual valves .I would bet it is more a trunion adjustment that needs to be checked and I would start there. Do you know if the fan on your drive shaft is still working and has all the fins ?

 

[dtanner]

Michael A. Miller

I think your trailer is missing it`s fenders. I saw one up here that had fenders

The stake pockets came in the trailer and were used to support a canvas top like a covered wagon for a vaccum system.There would be a gas engine sitting on the tongue of the trailer that was connected with hose from the deck chute to the engine and from the engine to the tent on the trailer. Hope this helps ?

 

[mmiller]

Donald T, you're right about missing the fenders. I just bought this trailer but haven't picked it up yet. I just happen to have another #2 trailer here that is a rust bucket, but it has good fenders on it.

 

[mlamar]

Terry
Sounds like rings or valve guides to me.???

 

[nbextermueller]

Brian,

Heat build up is totally normal. As a matter of fact I have boiled Hytran out of the over flow breather on my IH 782 on really hot days and using it just to mow grass. I know my pump is well worn and that adds to the heat generation.

As for the back up speed, it could be the neutral positioning needs to be adjusted or the trunion is a. It worn or both. I'd look into the neutral positioning first.

 

[bwittman]

Nic, Donald et el:

Thank you for the information on normal heat. I am glad to know that isn't serious. As for my slow reverse, my relief valves are automatic. Could it be possible that they are ready for a rebuild or replacement? The cooling fan was replaced last summer. I haven't had the tunnel cover off this year, but I have every reason to believe the fan is intact. I had to glue the fan to the drive shaft with black silicone because I couldn't get it to stay in place with the snap ring. I'll check to be sure the fan is still in good shape. From there I will look at the trunnion and neutral position. Currently, neutral is in the center of the lever position and the tractor stays in place when the lever is in that position. Forward seems to work just fine.

 

[sbauer]

My fuel pump is going bad on my 782. When it gets hot and the gas is below a half tank it will die. I was wonder if you would recommend getting a new manual pump like it has now or switch to an Electric fuel pump? Any an all input appreciated.

 

[jdiederichs]

Steve,

I like the electrical pump solution with one caveat; any pump MUST be in the 1.5-3 PSI range, no higher. These are harder to find, of course, although they are out there. Kohler does sell one.

If a higher pressure pump is used it will force the needle off the seat in the carb and result in flooding the engine with raw fuel. Bad, bad!

An alternative for electric is to use a pressure regulator with the pump (more $)or use the Kohler pump. B&S may offer an electric as well, or one of the OEMs?

Are you certain the pump is weak? Look for a faulty vent in the tank's cap, a plugged vent will cause a vacuum to form in the tank and no pump will draw fuel that way.

 

[phaswell]

I inherited an IH Cub Cadet 128 from my uncle almost two weeks ago. This is my first and it wouldn't start. Thanks to this forum and all contributing members, I was able to get it to start for the first time in 6 years tonight. Everything is original (with the exception of the SP and the gas line). I plan on restoring this to it's original glory over the next year (or few ).

Thanks to all here who have ever posted helpful tips! I'll probably need more in the future but didn't want to make my first post until I knew she'd run.

Already looking for my next cub... I think I might be in love

(Pics to follow)