Archive through April 29, 2015

[elamott]

Front wheel bearings
Thanks Dennis for the comment regarding the front wheel bearings on my 129. I did remove the bearings and will pack them tomorrow but now I have another question. The inside bearing on one wheel does not fit tight in the wheel. It is not sloppy but I can set it in and remove it with my fingers. No pounding required. I was thinking that I would find a very thin piece of brass and put it on the bearing before I tap it in. My thought is that is should be tight so it will not move. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again for any suggestions
Earl LaMott

 

[bjames]

An Original with the original engine would only have the filler plug with the oil level gauge attached to it. No dipstick.

 

[dfrisk]

EARL - Yes, strip of a soda can, brass shim stock, whatever, just thick enough the bearing stays in.

 

[jritter]

Rebuilding my 16 hp Kohler from my 1650. Only had to bore .010 not much wear for 36 yrs. I did notice the acr spring was broken on the cam shaft. is there a trick to installing one or is it just straight forward?

 

[jamarks]

Kraig
Thanks for the info, I'll look at it tomorrow, but I will say, those instructions are about as clear as mud tonight!
Thanks Jack

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - your instructions letter "b." ends with "refer to foldout at back of manual". Where's that picture? I agree with Jack - the instructions are clear as mud, and even in the morning when he looks they will still be mud. I think Jack will have to resort to the tried and true method normally associated with an adjusting nut - use a wrench of the proper size, and tighten the nut, just slightly. Interesting the diagram with the list of parts no. 1 thru 23, doesn't list the adjusting nut (but I think it's supposed to be the top item 21 in the pic.

Jack - make sure you let us know if in the end you just held onto the the Speed Control Rod (shaft) no. 19 in the pic, and tightened the adjusting nut with a wrench. I recall it's a big nut like 7/8" so I hope you either have a stubby wrench for it or figure out how to get a long one in there.

Earl L - I know you were asking Dennis and I don't disagree with Dennis' response as a method you could use, but I think that's somewhat over doing what the situation requires. I agree the bearing does need to be snug or even somewhat tight inside the wheel but an easier method is to just hammer lightly around the outside of the wheel hub and it will tighten the hub enough that the bearing will have to be hammered lightly to get it back in. I wouldn't hammer directly on the bearing - place a block of wood on it or lightly tap around the outside to get it back into the hub. If you got the hub to tight and light hammering won't get the bearing to go in then you'll have to tap on the inside of the hub to open it back up a little. Typing and talking here is harder than it is to actually do this.

You also asked about greaing the bearing so here's what I always liked to do.

1st, remove and clean the bearings as best you can. Then pack them using the old palm of your hand method like car wheel bearings. Then insert the bearings back into the hub and slide the wheel onto the spindle and install the nut and washer.

THEN you need to check the end play between the bearing and the washer. The manual calls out a maximum of 1/32". If you have more than 1/32" end play you'll have to add shims (and I'll bet your hub problem happened because you currently have more than 1/32" end play).

Then, once you're sure you have the end play down to to 1/32" or less, I'd remove the wheel and remove one of the bearings and put a damn of grease on the inside of the hub all around the bearing still installed. Then I would install the other bearing and do the best I could to get a dam of grease on the back side of that bearing. Then install the wheel back on the hub, add the shims already determined necessary, and install the washer and bolt. Spin the wheel to make sure it tuns freely and WHALAAAA - you're done.

You actually should do this every year. Once you've done it a few times it only takes about 15 minutes as part of your annual maintenance routine.

Those wheel bearings will last a good long time with annual maintenance, but people leave them go and the bearing fails, or normal usage results in to much end play, the bearing starts to slide out of the hub and the bearing gets sloppy, eventually twisting slightly, fails, comes apart and starts cutting into the spindle AND NOW you have a BIG maintenance expense.

So - for those of you having a look see at a Cub you spied some place - make sure you grap the top of the tire and push back and forth a little. If you see alot of end play there is a good chance the bearing has failed and it could already be cutting into the spindle. Don't confuse appearance of toe-in with the end play. The NF tractors usually look like they don't have toe-in but if you see one sitting toe-in or especially with toe-OUT it's probably a bearing and spindle problem. The WF tractors normally do appear to have toe-in so grab hold and see if there is play just to make sure. And if you got end play on both front wheels that could be spindle and bearing problems, that could cost a couple hundred in new parts - so add that to your bargaining.

 

[dfrisk]

HARRY - All I can say to your OVERLY LONG diatribe on front wheel bearings is "No!".

Tapping on the outside of the tube welded inside the wheel the bearings press into merely makes them NOT ROUND. It's hard on nicely painted wheels too. The only way I've found to keep bearings tight in a wheel is to shim them. Every tractor I've had except the 982 has one loose bearing.

Building little dams and pathways inside the wheel with grease is just a waste of grease. Keep your Cub Cadets dry, no washing them, brush snow out of them before you park them after winter snow removal.

About the only thing you said I agree with is routine maintainance should include repacking wheel bearings. But once a year is way to often for most Cubbies. I have a needle attachment for my grease gun that I can inject grease right down between the balls and races, even works on tapered roller bearings. Magnitudes less messy!

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hydro, Jack, the middle image is an excerpt from the "foldout" that is at the back of the manual. No need for a wrench, the "wedge" (I assume a hardwood wedge) or keystock that is placed between the nut and the bracket holds the nut while you move the hydro control lever, which in turn tightens or loosens the nut depending on which way you move the hydro control lever. I've indicated on the drawing where to place the wedge or keystock:

<font color="ffffff">................................................................</font> ^Side View^ <font color="ffffff">........</font> ^Front View^

 

[hydroharry]

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - geez, that's the best explanation I've ever gotten and can now understand a little better. I never tried making that kind of adjustment - guess I never needed it before. I know I put at least of few of them back together and must have had everything else out of the way and just used a wrench.

Could you clarify one other thing - the number for the adjusting nut in the list of parts diagram?

Dennis - well, I guess we disagree on wheels and wheel bearings. And, we disagree on "washing". What about the guys out there throwing mud around? Are you telling them never wash their Cubs? I was hoping you at least agree with my closing comment on spying a Cub Cadet and negotiating a deal.

 

[dfrisk]

Harry - my trucks/tractors get a wash with Gunk foaming degreaser and a spray nozzle on a garden hose in preparation for major disassembly and repair work. They may get wiped down with a damp cloth between those times. And I would NEVER take a pressure washer to them. I've ruined way too many paint jobs that way.

I don't play in the mud with my trucks/tractors. I outgrew that when I was about five years old.

I've got two Cub Cadets and two FARMALLS. That's enough for me. I may get a third CC someday. I'd like the 70 back when Son's done with it. It's just about EXACTLY FIFTY years ago today that it was delivered to the farm I grew up on. It would be my dedicated mowing tractor.