Archive through April 29, 2014

[prtombaugh]

I use a light coating of WD-40 on a show plow to maintain the shiny metal appearance. On my other plows, that actually get used, I like Till Guard, a Van Sickle product that sprays on easily, dries quickly to a flat black matte finish and doesn't rub off on spectators at a show or when working around it. It scours off quickly when you start plowing.

 

[bjamison]

Mike F - understood on the hydro drinking the hp. What I was wondering about is - if one were to put a direct drive to the tranny vs going through the hydro, would components like the input shaft, etc., that pullers might break or want to replace. Don't know how different the innards of the hydro vs gear drive compare and with the introduction of the hydro along side the gear drive IHCC line-up, did IH make any changes to the hydro tranny to beef it up or change it for strength in any way. I have to believe IH knew the hp wars were coming and perhaps with it, maybe a stouter component or two in the hydro and/or gear drive tranny.

Nick H - good luck with the GT1054. My brother came close to buying one this spring, opted for a lighter lawn tractor a CC LTX 1050. One thing about the GT1054 is it has a tranny that is serviceable and has a hydro filter. From what I've read, they are good reliable trannys. You should be very happy with that tractor - and enjoy the foot controlled hydro!

 

[nhasson]

Bill J, thanks, and the foot controlled hydro is sweet. Only thing that will take some getting used to is the "Safety" feature of the reverse mowing thing and the extra sensitive pressure switch in the seat. I mow sideways across a steep bank and when you try to lean on the high side of the seat it will shut the blades off. I found a set of wheel weights that will hopefully help that. But you have to turn the key and press a button to override the reverse shut down feature. Heck, the only safety feature on my 149 was the switch on the brake linkage and it was bypassed. The dealer said all these new wonderful safety features all stem from lawsuits. Imagine that.

 

[mfrade]

Bill J., I don't believe so but maybe Marlin can shine some light on this? It's been discussed here many times how the gear reduction that IH added to the cub rearend applies so much more torque than the cub had to handle, and I've heard of horsepower figures as high as 25 being made in the cub. But I believe the factory rating was from 18 to 22.

I don't think there was going to be much of a horsepower war, the machine size would be one of the limiting factors. There is no reason to have a 30 hp machine and still be garden tractor size, as it is, the garden tractor cannot apply the horsepower it makes to the ground, unless your adding weights, bigger tires, etc. etc..

I can't see any reason "they" wanted to go with a larger motor. And I don't believe they wanted to at that time. Another reason "they" wouldn't push to fast for more horsepower is cost and economy of operation.

Good topic for discussion tho'!

 

[rbeem]

"Nick H. See ya here next year when your brand new Cub GT1054 is worn out!"

Obviously, I am exagerating and nothing personal. I do not do that.
So we'll see you here in 40 years and see how that thing is running ok? (semi-kidding) I'll be 83 but I can wait.

 

[dfrisk]

BILL J. - The limit of 14-15 HP thru a GD CC transmission & rearend "ASSUMES" no slippage, perfect traction... something very hard to accomplish.

There's not a whole lot of common parts between the GD & hydro so not a whole lot was beefed up in the hydro. One common part that fails between the gd & hydro are the tapered bearing caps the diff runs on. They're cast iron and can crack under extreme loading. Places like MWSC sell machined billet aluminum caps which are good for more HP than most pullers can make.

The one weak spot on gd's is the top sliding gear shaft which a hydro doesn't even have. Supposedly it can twist at over 14-15 HP, but once again, MWSC makes an alloy shaft thats stronger than the 1045 forged shaft IH made, and MWSC's shaft is cheaper than the IH shaft.

Lets put things this way, if somebody wants to pull a plow or sub-soiler in his garden, a CC stands a better chance of doing it than ANY other garden tractor with the possible exception of an Economy Power King. And the only way the CC will break is if you really have a moron in the seat running it, or you REALLY try to break it.

 

[jclazar]

A moron will find a way to break steel balls, and or maim him/herself. All the safety switches in the world would not be a substitute for common sense. IH understood this along time ago, when as a young kid you got swatted for touching something you were not to touch. I wonder how many of the garden tractor lawsuits back in the day were a direct result of someone being in "la-la land".... drinking booze and smoking pot and who knows what.

I had to settle up with Hydroharry, and get a 1450. I also have kept my all-gear model 72. I'm all set!

 

[hydroharry]

John L - your profile shows owning a 1250. Do you have 2 Hydros?

Bill J - hey you can go the other way around and add a clutch assembly to the Hydro. I wouldn't recommend it tho. Most who've had them didn't like it, but does allow the engine that little quicker starting. On the other hand if your engine is tuned right and it ain't really cold outside most Hydros will start just as quick as the gear drives.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Offhand I can't remember what the models were however they were over 20 horsepower and Cub Cadet still used the 15U in those. They were an early MTD or CCC sub compact model. I remember seeing one a couple of years ago in Marshalltown and the price was still sky high even though the tractor featured CAT O three point and dual brakes and some other stuff. While a good pump the 15U is just simply too high priced for regular lawn and garden tractors and too under powered for what the higher end garden tractors need for a longer life, more robust pump. Thus the 20 Series which as I've been told is supposed to be a direct fit in place of the 15U. I've yet to actually see a 20 Series and I've hinted to some that I'd like to purchase one and retrofit it to an older Cub Cadet. I've been told to keep on using the 15U. The 20 will be too high priced and I won't live long enough to wear it out either.

 

[mmasheris]

Kent change that thread dim to .625 I was wrong I made 10 up today.And the bushing is 3/4 od and 1/2 ID and a little wider than your bar some are 3/8 and have seen some 1/2