Great reading Kraig! Now you really have my gears grinding... I initially noticed the leak after I changed the fluids and ran it for a while. It initially seemed to be coming from the filter. I tightened the filter thinking this was the source of my problem. Obviously it wasn't. I am now thinking it may be the cork gasket??? It seems that I am going to have to trace it back to the source. I may just keep an eye on my fluid and add fluid throughout this mowing season. I already have a list of other projects scheduled for next winter. Why not add 1 more... I will just have to use the shovel again next winter. I guess it's good for the back.
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Archive through April 27, 2011
- Thread starter mgonitzke
- Start date
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Glad to hear that you think it is an axle seal Kraig. That is something I can change with minimal downtime and rather cost effective. I'm probably going to change it and see if that solves the problem. I will let you know.
David, ah, the plot thickens, so it was leaking at one point near the filter/hydro pump. Just to be sure, what type brake setup does your 1450 have, internal or the external setup with the brakes mounted on the axles?
It seemed once I tightened the filter the leak in that area didn't appear any longer. When I put filters on I only tighten them hand tight. I don't like over tightening them. That way if I need to, I can always go back and give it a little squeeze with the wrench. The brakes are an external brake. The leak seems to be coming from the axle and leaking down over the brake disc. When it hits the ground, it is right inside the wheel.
gcostendorf
Member
- Joined
- May 24, 2008
- Messages
- 9
- displayname
- Gary Ostendorf
Hi All, I'm working on a 1200. Most of the clutch parts are in pretty sad shape. The release lever is worn substantially, the clutch disk is ready for replacement, and the clutch driver is shot. However I am concerned about the rear coupler that attaches the drive shaft to the transmission. There is quite a bit of slop in the joint. Appears to me the transmiission shaft is worn. Is this normal? Is it a problem? Thanks Gary
Jeremiah C- Yes, this tractor is in fairly good shape. I know what you are talking about with beat up fenders, my 1650 looks like the fenders have seen the cordless drill a few times, and the tree trunk a few times as well!
Shane S.-Yes! It does have the rear PTO! I was very shocked when I went to look at it the PO didnt really know what it was!
The tractor has the original IH coil on it...I never knew IH put their name on Cub Cadet coils
Shane S.-Yes! It does have the rear PTO! I was very shocked when I went to look at it the PO didnt really know what it was!
The tractor has the original IH coil on it...I never knew IH put their name on Cub Cadet coils
Gary, hang in there, hopefully someone that knows the answers to your query will post soon. I'm a hydro guy, the only gear drive Cub Cadet I own is an Original and it's a very different animal...
Gary-The wear in the rear coupler IS normal. Ive heard along the grapevine that out of the three basic sizes of gear drives (7, 10, and 12 hp) that the 10 and the 12 hp driveline components, including throwout bearings and rear drive couplers, wear out much faster than the 7hp driveline parts due to the increased hp. If the shaft that goes into the transmission is worn, my best advice would be to replace it if you are already that far along in teardown. Also, if the driveshaft is worn, especially where the throwout bearing rides, it would be ideal to replace that, because if you don't, all the parts on that shaft will rattle and bang and clang and drive you nuts. Just my experience and .02...hope it helps.
Ryan, Dave, that was quick!
First off, I hope and pray everyone that has anything connected with the forum is okay.I have checked in here time to time, but have a lot going on at work,had double pneumonia in Feb.Finally ended up having heart attach early easter morning.
I'm home doing real good,have lots of time now,
but have about 5 pages of restrictions and lots of lifestyle changes to make.
HEY CHARLIE! Haven't made it up after that'62'O but i will!
ROD
I'm home doing real good,have lots of time now,
but have about 5 pages of restrictions and lots of lifestyle changes to make.
HEY CHARLIE! Haven't made it up after that'62'O but i will!
ROD
Gary-
I recently took the driveshaft out of my 108/128 because I was sure the teaser was broken. The clutch just didn't act right. When I got it out the teaser was fine but the rear coupler was in rough shape. I changed it out and it took care of the clutch problem and a bad vibration. Like Dave said, you don't want to find out too late that it's bad. I'd go back with new roll pins as well.
Good luck.
I recently took the driveshaft out of my 108/128 because I was sure the teaser was broken. The clutch just didn't act right. When I got it out the teaser was fine but the rear coupler was in rough shape. I changed it out and it took care of the clutch problem and a bad vibration. Like Dave said, you don't want to find out too late that it's bad. I'd go back with new roll pins as well.
Good luck.
PSA,
If anyone has any contact/phone information on Josh Ott in Wisconsin. Please shoot me an email!
If anyone has any contact/phone information on Josh Ott in Wisconsin. Please shoot me an email!
lpalma
Well-known member
Rodney,
Get well soon!
"Kraig keeper of the photos" and Paul Bell,
Thanks for posting those pictures of the pulley on the 72 pull start,now I know what I am looking for.
Finally cleared up today soooo I put the 42" deck on the 123 and cut the grass.
Get well soon!
"Kraig keeper of the photos" and Paul Bell,
Thanks for posting those pictures of the pulley on the 72 pull start,now I know what I am looking for.
Finally cleared up today soooo I put the 42" deck on the 123 and cut the grass.
Anybody tried sealing the gas tank on CC? Mine decided to start leaking around the threaded insert. The inside of the tank has a small amount of rust. Many years ago I used JB weld to seal the same area from the outside. A second application is likely to fail, so I am thinking about sealing it from the inside and also cover any rust.
Barry, I had the same problem. I emptied the tank, washed it out with soapy water, then used a propane tourch and plumbers solder to resolder and seal the fitting to the tank. I used standard plumbers joint flux to clean before soldering. Not hard to do. Very much like sweating a copper pipe fitting. Good luck.
P.S. If you need to clean the inside of the tank, try putting a handfull of coarse sand, closing the cap, and putting it on a paint shaker for 10-20 minutes. The sand scours the surface free of rust. If you feel the need you can seal the tank interior with Gas Tank Sealant. Most auto supply or internet stores carry it.
P.S. If you need to clean the inside of the tank, try putting a handfull of coarse sand, closing the cap, and putting it on a paint shaker for 10-20 minutes. The sand scours the surface free of rust. If you feel the need you can seal the tank interior with Gas Tank Sealant. Most auto supply or internet stores carry it.
mgwin
Well-known member
Finally got everything ready for the show this Friday and Saturday. Gonna forget my problems for a couple of days and enjoy some Cub Cadet time!
