Archive through April 26, 2013

[lpalma]

Now Frank lets give Ralph time to be a more than a 1nd er.
I was up in your beautiful state of Maine last week working and did not see a Moose,but I did look at 72.

 

[kmcconaughey]

Hmmm, could this mean I have an 8hp in my Original?

I guess I'm going to have to have a look at the spec plate...

 

[tbdavis]

Kraig - just measured the piston for that block - definitely a 7 hp! Think you're good. I just wanna find one person out there with a 71 with that block (and original to the tractor) and this things gonna get a workout at the machine shop.

 

[pbell]

What is the bore diameter, 7hp blocks had two different bore sizes. What is the spec number of the engine?

 

[tbdavis]

Bore is 2 15/16ths, spec # 28542e. Can't guarantee the spec # given possibility of shroud change.

 

[jbevans]

Hi everyone -

I haven't posted in a while but picked up a cool little IH cart today. I can't seem to find any information on it except its a # 3 cart. Anyone have any info on it or know where to find a manual? I didn't see one in the manuals section and didn't find much during my search of the archives.

Thanks!

JB

 

[rvanmersbergen]

Hey guys any thoughts on a 782D any problem areas? sitting in my shop needs new radiator and some electrical/switch problems, kind of a new direction for a narrow frame guy.

 

[dtanner]

Ray Van Mersbergen

The 782 diesel suffer the same issues my 1512 diesel does.There are a few changes that you can do to make it a better working more reliable tractor. I would be happy to help with any problems you would have . please give me a few more details so we can go through each problem you have. I will help if I can.glow plug indicator rewire;Starter replacement to a faster start; Better ,faster , glow plugs.Rpm`s set at 3600 rpm and valve adjustment .

 

[digger]

Ray and Don.
Ummmmmm, did the 782D miraculously become IH built all of a sudden!

 

[dtanner]

Charlie - I think we could post his questions in the CCC and MTD Machines & Equipment section . There he will get answers.All I can say is

 

[digger]

Don T.

 

[thoffman]

Need some opinions. I have a small oil leak at the drain plug. What better a high temp "O" ring or a plastic fiber washer in there?

 

[kide]

Tom - I don't like the way O-rings squish out before you get the drain plug tight.. Check to see the mating surfaces are flat and clear of burrs and scratches a,d use a flat plastic washer.. (my 2 cents, which isn't worth even that..)

 

[dtanner]

Tom - A few winds with plummer tape white or blue is what I use. The tape fills up the threads and stops any leaks. Also not to many $$$

Charlie _ thanks for the call. Always good to talk to You .

 

[drglinski]

Yup, thread tape works wonders. I use it all over the place. Recently used it when I took off the sediment bowl on the fuel tank. No leaks. (knocks on wood)

 

[ljones]

Terry D, the k-181in my Original and ot tractor has the mounting points, in all the pictures I could find only the k-181 has them.

 

[dfrisk]

TOM H - leaking oil drain plug... What type is it? The K-series Kohlers use an NTP threaded pipe plug, and a wrap of pipe tape will seal any leaks, or another quarter turn tighter should as well.

If it's a regular drain plug with a machined flat on the pan and a shoulder or washer machined onto the plug, I'd get a copper sealing washer from your local C/IH dealer. My PSD in my pickup has had something like 110 oil changes and the factory plug still seals fine with a thin swipe of my favorite color of RTV on the washer. My little commuter car uses a similar plug with an aluminum washer and they recommend replacing that alum. washer every time. But about ten-twelve oil changes ago I replaced the washer and next oil change the washer had "relaxed" it's self and the drain plug was barely finger tight. Only thing keeping it tight was the thin swipe of RTV.... So do not use aluminum. The old washers when I reuse them have been compressed and keep their tension on the plug.

An auto parts store may also have a washer that has an o-ring staked inside a metal washer that works well too. The washer allows the plug to tighten up good and keeps the o-ring from expanding out from under the flange on the plug.

 

[pfunk]

Terry D. The 8hp Kohler and later 7 hp Kohlers all had a standard bore of 2.9297/2.9281 (according to my Kohler manual). It's the stroke that differentiated between the two. I don't know the stroke or spec numbers, but I'm sure Paul Bell does and will comment.

 

[pbell]

Terry,
If 28542 is the correct spec number for the engine, then someone has been in it before and had the block bored. Spec number 28542 should have a 2-7/8" bore, but I agree with the others in that it is a K181 8hp block. I had a 71 that I sold not long ago that did not have those bosses or holes in the block, and I have a 70 now that does not have them, but I have two model 86's with K181 engines that do have them. Does this mean that the engine is not correct if it is installed in a 71? No, because it could be a replacement engine. When Kohler quit making the K161 engine (spec number 281162 is when the bore size changed and is probably when the K161 block went away), the K181 became the factory replacement engine for the K161, wether it was bought from IH or a Kohler dealer. All the 7 hp models IH built originally had engines with a 2-7/8" bore and 2-1/2" stroke. When the bore size changed the stroke remained the same for the "K161". The 8hp K181 has a 2-15/16 bore and a 2-3/4" stroke.

 

[tbdavis]

Thanks for helping me out and it well could be a replacement indeed. One thing I did check was the connecting rod which shows #231785. Not sure if that helps at all. Unfortunately I can't discern any identifying marks on the piston and just assumed it was standard. I do have another k161 block that had the old bore size and is being machined for the new pistons.