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Archive through April 26, 2009

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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THANKS for posting those pic's Kraig!
Some people wanted to know about the new sprayer I built this spring. I had been using a 14 gal. ATV sprayer with a small 12V diaphram pump to run the 4-nozzle spray boom all attached to this old cart with good results for many years, but three years ago I bought a new crabgrass spray that was only available in a wettable powder at the time. I didn't think the 5 oz. plastic bags of powder would dissolve properly in only 14 gal. of water. So I started getting parts gathered for a BIGGER sprayer.
The little blue pump is a HYPRO # 4101C available @ Blains Farm & Fleet for about $85. It runs at up to 2600 RPM @ 7.2 gal. per minute and 100 PSI compared to about 7/10 gal/min @ 50-55 PSI for the old pump. This lets Me run much bigger nozzles, 1/2 GPM each @ 50 PSI verses .17 GPM each with the old pump. But the diaphram pump shuts itself off if exceeds it's max. pressure. The roller pump basically destroys the nylon rollers and eventually the case if it runs too long at max PSI. I also needed excess flow to agitate the spray solution in the tank while spraying to keep the powder in solution. The tank is a 55 gal. rated tank avail. from Northern Tools for $99.99.
I run the pump at about 1600 engine rpm which is 2450-2500 pump RPM which is about 1 mph in 1st gear with a GD CC, Boom is 80 inches wide, so I cover right around 600 square feet per minute and spray 2.0 Gal. over those 600 sq. ft. Makes for easy mixing of the solutions.

Toughest part was trying to create the pressure regulating system with a little help from HYPRO's website. Just a week ago I came up with the right solution to this problem. The second pic shows the hitch on the cart attached to the tractor, the hoses run under or inside the channel, the supply hose from the tank to the pump runs from the sump on the bottom of the tank through the floor of the cart up under the rearend of the Cubbie, up to the inlet of the pump, (right side of tractor, S/G side) and the pressure hose runs back under the tractor, inside the channel and up the front of the cart.
The pressure hose runs to a TEE, and then to a pair of pressure regulators, One set to about 60-70 PSI to the bypass lines into the agitation nozzles at the frt & back top of the tank. The other end of the hose from the TEE runs to the boom regulator set for 50 PSI, then a 1/4-turn valve to shut off the boom, then to another TEE to monitor pressure in the boom, the gauge is mounted at the top front of the tank for easy monitoring.
I sprayed the yard last Thursday with the crabgrass herbicide using this sprayer. After a couple small showers in the early AM I got the first batch mixed about 9:30 AM and had two batches down and the sprayer cleaned & rinsed by NOON. The pump is easy to turn on/off with the frt PTO, with the larger nozzls plugging & poor spray patterns are a thing of the past, I'm still using the same extra fine mesh nozzle screens from the old small nozzles. I put one bag of powder per tank of water, add 20-25 gal. of water, throw the whole water-soluable bag in, hit it with the spray gun on the garden hose, and by the time the tank had the correct 48 gal. of water in it the solution was well mixed. The tractor & pump ran the whole time I was filling the sprayer and driving to the point I started spraying at. I'd shut the pump off for a few seconds, turn the boom valve on, start the tractor moving and turn the PTO on and I was spraying.
FIMCO makes a similar sized sprayer that BLAIN's sells for around $1300 that powers the Customer-supplied pump with a second 5 HP engine. I have right at $350 invested in this sprayer including the pump, tank, psi regulators, hose, fittings, new nozzles, clamps, and the pump drive belt. I could duplicate My spray boom for $20-$30 for the hose, clamps, & fittings.
I don't like to control weeds with fertilizer, makes the grass grow too fast in spring and also makes it too susceptable to drought in the summer. I wish I could say My yard has no crabgrass but this is a pre-emergent spray so I had to get it down before the crabgrass sprouted. I'll know how it worked by mid July. I'm going to use this sprayer to apply My broadleaf herbicide this summer for dandelions, Etc. The "Roundup-Ready" version of this pump is over $200 so I will not be using this sprayer with any Roundup. The old 14 gal. 12V sprayer will still get that job.
Anyone has any questions just ask! Once again, Thank's for posting these pic's KRAIG!
 
Dustin,
The hydro plates are hardened, so they don't wear a whole lot. The bushings in them, however, do. You could re-bush them, side-shim them, or replace. I replaced the plate attached to the hydro becasue of this. The pin it mounts to on the hydro was worn a little, but the new plate along with side-shimming ought to do the trick, in my case...
 
William,
How well an engine holds up depends on a number of factors, such as how often the oil was changed, if it ran for an extended time seriously out of tune, and if grass clippings, chaff, etc are regularly removed or not, which can make the engine run hot. With reasonable maintenance, a K-series engine should give you at least 1500 hours or more of service before having serious problems. If you mow with it 2 hours a week for 6 months out of the year plus throw in a few hours for snowplowing and towing a cart around occasionally, it will take over 20 years to get this much use, but lack of use for extended periods of time can cause piston rings to stick, carburetors to get gummed up, valves to stick, and corrosion to build up on switch and relay contacts. If you got 25 years the first go round, the engine should still be pretty fresh, unless the rebuilder cut some corners he shouldn't have, or it has been subject to abuse. A little blowby is normal, and I am a little skeptical myself if the dipstick could even make contact with the camshaft even if it was cocked at an angle.
 
Allen Schumacher,
Yes and I just double checked. They have a nice hight back but I don't want a hight back on the 104. And they have a couple fiberglass seats but there isn't and padding for my skinny behind.

While I'm here is what's under my ripped up padding the fiberglass seat pan that CC Specialties offers? This is one of those things I might live with until I find one in good shape and not gold platted.
 
Richard, yes the fiberglass pan from CCS is pretty much the same as you have without any padding. A slip on pad for a full size tractor pan seat will fit over the fiberglass pan seat. I've been using one for years on my #2 125. I bought it at Fleet Farm. (I don't think the yellow and white seat covers for the Cub Cadet steel pan seat will fit over the fiberglass pan seat. But then, I've never tried it. I have one, I may have to try it and see if it'll fit.) I removed all the old padding, vinyl and the blue edging. I put the blue edging in a safe spot in my shed as it is no longer available. Here's some photos of the seat cover on my #2 125. I suppose one could add a layer of foam for additional padding but I've been using it with just the padding that came with the cover with no complaints but it isn't as thick as the padding in the original white vinyl seat was.

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Bruce-
Thanks for all your help. The tractor was always professionally gone through before each season, summer winter and spring. It was always well taken care of and the rebuilder does it for a living so hopefully he didnt cut any corners. Is there a way I can look inside and see if that spring is missing or not?? Once again I really appreciate all your help.
 
Kraig McConaughey,

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I like that! I guess I'll be going to TSC and see if I can get one. Thanks!
 
William,
Take the cam cover/dipstick tube off, its only 4 bolts. Try not to tear the gasket when you remove it. Take a flashlight and examine the flat side of the camshaft gear (towards the flywheel side of the engine). A dental mirror might be helpful to see what's going on. Here is a shot of the counterweight assembly on my junk camshaft to give you an idea of what you are looking at. You can see where the spring curls around the button, and hooks around the counterweights.

If your family and the PO got 25 years out of the original engine, you guys must be doing something right. My dad was a very able diesel mechanic in his day, but when it came to repairing things like cars and mowers around the house, including our old 102, he often tried to nurse something along. With 4 kids to feed and put through college, money was tight growing up, but his strategy of nursing something along often backfired. OTOH, I learned a lot looking over his shoulder and playing gofer when he was working on something.

Dad's pushing 80, in fairly good health and comfortably retired with a whole shop full of tools now. His current project is resurrecting a Troy-Bilt rototiller a neighbor traded him for a tractor battery.

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Quick easy ? Will a mule drive from a 782 fit a 105?? My 105 is worn out. The threaded rod side hole is about worn through and the rod is worn about 1/4 in. keeps throwin the belt. Thanks.
 

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