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Bryan, David B: - Percussionist for one of my groups was Knights of Geneseo '84-'87.
Whadd'ya call a drummer who's just been dumped by his girlfriend?
...homeless...
Whadd'ya call a drummer with a 'real job'?
...dunno- never met one...
Whadd'ya call a drummer who's just been dumped by his girlfriend?
...homeless...
Whadd'ya call a drummer with a 'real job'?
...dunno- never met one...
Dave K...
What does a peeler do with her 'a$$' before she goes to work?
.........drops him off at band practice.....
What do you call a guy who hangs out with musicians?
.......a drummer....
to keep it o/t.......
Rebuilt my #2 tiller after breaking the #60 chain. Repainted it using Omni A/U.
Now the 1650 has a knock.....always sumthun :-(
What does a peeler do with her 'a$$' before she goes to work?
.........drops him off at band practice.....
What do you call a guy who hangs out with musicians?
.......a drummer....
to keep it o/t.......
Rebuilt my #2 tiller after breaking the #60 chain. Repainted it using Omni A/U.
Now the 1650 has a knock.....always sumthun :-(
Hey Dale!
Capitalization and Punctuation is not only inexpensive, it's easy to use and worth twice the price in improving clarity! I'll try'n reverse-engineer what you wrote and answer... if I misunderstand you, well, I gave it my best shot;
>did the 104 have a 12hp engine?
--104 should've been 10hp, however, if the engine is not yellow, it's most likely a 'service replacement' engine... and I wouldn't be surprised if someone replaced a 10 with a 12...
>its gear dive looks like a 104 from the side but the frount looks like a 106
--Well, all the even-numbered Cubs (that I'm aware of) were gear-driven, while odd-numbers were hydros. Models prior to the 100 might've had an exception, but someone else would have to verify that.
--If the grille surround has a compound-slope, then the Cub Cadet is of the 1x6/1x7 series. If it's straight, it's earlier. IF you copy down the serial number, and look it up in the serial-number cross-references located on this (and other) Cub-Cadet websites, you'll be able to determine exactly which model the SERIAL number was associated to, as well as it's manufacturing year and month. Now, someone may have ASSEMBLED your Cub-Cadet from parts of different series, if they just happened-to-have the right parts lying around, but my guess is you've got a predominantly original machine with a replacement motor that's either the same as the original (in which case, it's a 12x) or different (a 10x) model.
>>any ideas I bought it cause it has a frash motor in it and a 3 point hitch and the guy only wanted 200.00 bucks
--You mean a 'fresh' motor? (hopefully not 'trash') Well, with a 3-point, and good 12hp, I'd say you got a good deal.
Capitalization and Punctuation is not only inexpensive, it's easy to use and worth twice the price in improving clarity! I'll try'n reverse-engineer what you wrote and answer... if I misunderstand you, well, I gave it my best shot;
>did the 104 have a 12hp engine?
--104 should've been 10hp, however, if the engine is not yellow, it's most likely a 'service replacement' engine... and I wouldn't be surprised if someone replaced a 10 with a 12...
>its gear dive looks like a 104 from the side but the frount looks like a 106
--Well, all the even-numbered Cubs (that I'm aware of) were gear-driven, while odd-numbers were hydros. Models prior to the 100 might've had an exception, but someone else would have to verify that.
--If the grille surround has a compound-slope, then the Cub Cadet is of the 1x6/1x7 series. If it's straight, it's earlier. IF you copy down the serial number, and look it up in the serial-number cross-references located on this (and other) Cub-Cadet websites, you'll be able to determine exactly which model the SERIAL number was associated to, as well as it's manufacturing year and month. Now, someone may have ASSEMBLED your Cub-Cadet from parts of different series, if they just happened-to-have the right parts lying around, but my guess is you've got a predominantly original machine with a replacement motor that's either the same as the original (in which case, it's a 12x) or different (a 10x) model.
>>any ideas I bought it cause it has a frash motor in it and a 3 point hitch and the guy only wanted 200.00 bucks
--You mean a 'fresh' motor? (hopefully not 'trash') Well, with a 3-point, and good 12hp, I'd say you got a good deal.
Calling all Kraigs, Got a call from the deere dealer here today. A lady is trading in a pair of 125's and a couple of other cubs on somthing to mow her yard with. Looks like the "REV"has seconds on them. Anyone else in for a long road trip?
S
still gt pulling with my turbo diesel 1782
Guest
Dave,just grab a Honda Goldwing radiator off e-pay or wherever;they are just the right size and work great!!
dgallagher
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 12, 2000
- Messages
- 179
- displayname
- David Gallagher
Does the PTO for the 149 use the double fiber clutch, or is it a special clutch. Thanks.
DAVE K. - Nix the water-cooled exh. manifold... Any GOOD diesel deserves a TURBO.... May be tough getting boost with only two cylinders though. Ever seen a 2-cyl. deare with a turbo????
Lord knows they needed one....
Lord knows they needed one....
D
dmorrissette
Guest
Digger & Ken,
Thanks for the bong concept. I'm going to get right on that. I've got everything I need to make a version of that.
Thanks for the bong concept. I'm going to get right on that. I've got everything I need to make a version of that.
R
rmull
Guest
Going back to Sunday evening...Dunham is 100% correct that there is a shady person out there that had a Brinly back blade.
I bought it in March, and it was offered to Dunham nearly a month after I had paid for it. They insisted upon him paying prior to WFM, but thankfully, (for both of us) he did not.
And yes, I did plow with a JD140H3 all day Saturday, and I had fun...but I agree with Travis, a 430 is the JD to have. Other than that, I plowed 1/2 round with Arts 1872, and used Nick's 782D w/#15 JD cart to pick up and deliver a couple items.
I bought it in March, and it was offered to Dunham nearly a month after I had paid for it. They insisted upon him paying prior to WFM, but thankfully, (for both of us) he did not.
And yes, I did plow with a JD140H3 all day Saturday, and I had fun...but I agree with Travis, a 430 is the JD to have. Other than that, I plowed 1/2 round with Arts 1872, and used Nick's 782D w/#15 JD cart to pick up and deliver a couple items.
jluckey
Well-known member
- Joined
- Apr 18, 2001
- Messages
- 187
- displayname
- Jonathan Luckey -*"Constant Vigilance!!!"*
POST HIS INFO HERE, RYAN. That way we can harass him until your item is delivered or your money is returned. I personally want to make sure that I NEVER do business with that kind of SCUM.
Jonathan
Jonathan
Dave
Call it "The Barge" since it will have a marine diesel, it will be long, it will be able to move large loads and problaby fit somewhat under the definition of a boat "A hole in the water into which one pours his money".
Call it "The Barge" since it will have a marine diesel, it will be long, it will be able to move large loads and problaby fit somewhat under the definition of a boat "A hole in the water into which one pours his money".
Well at least when I had to quit making my tools I returned all the money in full at a lose to myself since some was sent via PP and I sent out checks in full. There's only two outstanding debts and they were on trades not cash ... but I've not forgot.
Digger -- is that SNOW I see on the radar map ? Nice bright eye hurtin SUNSHINE here
Digger -- is that SNOW I see on the radar map ? Nice bright eye hurtin SUNSHINE here
- Joined
- Aug 31, 2006
- Messages
- 3,290
- displayname
- Home of the Plow Special
Dave-
You should think about shimming up the grill shell and pedestal about 1" with some steel spacers. It may not eliminate your need for a "hood scoop", but it could make it smaller.
Oh, and by the way....
What do you do when a bassist comes to your door at 3 am?
Give him the 20 dollars for the pizza and slam the door!
You should think about shimming up the grill shell and pedestal about 1" with some steel spacers. It may not eliminate your need for a "hood scoop", but it could make it smaller.
Oh, and by the way....
What do you do when a bassist comes to your door at 3 am?
Give him the 20 dollars for the pizza and slam the door!
Jerry B., it's a good thing those 2 125s are so far away or I might be sleeping in the shed. My wife's birthday was on April 24th the same day as WFM Spring Break, she let me go. When I got home I told her I want to buy a new engine for the Original, she said OK. But she wasn't happy with me when I hauled home the last parts tractor a few weeks back, she said no more tractors!
Dave K., Dale C., the 72, 1x4/5 series and the 73, 1x6/7 series are the ones that have the double slant in the grill. The hoods on the 72, 1x4/5 series have a slight ridge down the center of the hood with a chrome hood ornament. The 73, 1x6/7 series has a sculpted hood with no chrome ornament, see photos below. The 73 is an odd number but is a gear drive, other than that Dave got it right.
Above is the 72, 1x4/5 series hood.
Above is the 73, 1x6/7 series hood style.
Dave K., Dale C., the 72, 1x4/5 series and the 73, 1x6/7 series are the ones that have the double slant in the grill. The hoods on the 72, 1x4/5 series have a slight ridge down the center of the hood with a chrome hood ornament. The 73, 1x6/7 series has a sculpted hood with no chrome ornament, see photos below. The 73 is an odd number but is a gear drive, other than that Dave got it right.
Above is the 72, 1x4/5 series hood.
Above is the 73, 1x6/7 series hood style.
Here's a comparison photo of the snowthrower chute adjuster u-joints.
Hee hee... you guys're a stitch! Art- thanks for the tip- I'll spend it wisely, and perhaps I can use that technique to round up some more green for cub-money!
Hmmm... HALF the liquid-cooled exhaust is off now... I took off the dump-elbow. It looks like the plumbing circuit for this block is THROUGH the main portion of exhaust manifold... like... that's where the thermostat is, and I can't use another point-of-entry... so I'm stuck with at least the straight portion anyway.
The turbo is a good idea... I could see a hair-dryer mounted on the one end... however, I might be able to make one better- the original transmission mounting area needs a block-off plate (it's open to the crankcase!) and I need to remove the transmission coupler. When I do that, I'll have a shaft-with-keyway, slightly recessed under my finished cover. I could make a stub shaft, and put a bearing and seal on my cover plate... OR I could just get really good and make a tiny roots-blower to fit over that hole. The intake silencer (the thing that looks like a snorkel) is held on with a simple clamp, and results in a very nice 1.5" tube... putting a blower down on the crank, and running a tube up to that intake would be easy.
Making a roots blower, however, would be quite a challenge. My Atlas 9's got a broken tailstock clamp (from boring the old propshaft to make a sleeve-hitch sleeve!). Lightbulb is burned-out on the drill press (@#$% stuck too!)... and I'm not well-equipped with other tools or tooling, so making a supercharger would require me to invest in a few more buckets to sit-on and think.
Goldwing radiator is exactly what I had in mind, thanks for the tip!
If anyone has a good idea for where I goon like me could come up with something that'd serve as a compact supercharger for an engine that displaces 38 cubic inches and turns at about 2600RPM, clue me in... hmmm... how about an OIL PUMP out of an EMD V-16? For just a mild boost, I'd need hmmm... about 50 cubic inches per shaft revolution to yield about oh...4psi of boost?
Hmmm... HALF the liquid-cooled exhaust is off now... I took off the dump-elbow. It looks like the plumbing circuit for this block is THROUGH the main portion of exhaust manifold... like... that's where the thermostat is, and I can't use another point-of-entry... so I'm stuck with at least the straight portion anyway.
The turbo is a good idea... I could see a hair-dryer mounted on the one end... however, I might be able to make one better- the original transmission mounting area needs a block-off plate (it's open to the crankcase!) and I need to remove the transmission coupler. When I do that, I'll have a shaft-with-keyway, slightly recessed under my finished cover. I could make a stub shaft, and put a bearing and seal on my cover plate... OR I could just get really good and make a tiny roots-blower to fit over that hole. The intake silencer (the thing that looks like a snorkel) is held on with a simple clamp, and results in a very nice 1.5" tube... putting a blower down on the crank, and running a tube up to that intake would be easy.
Making a roots blower, however, would be quite a challenge. My Atlas 9's got a broken tailstock clamp (from boring the old propshaft to make a sleeve-hitch sleeve!). Lightbulb is burned-out on the drill press (@#$% stuck too!)... and I'm not well-equipped with other tools or tooling, so making a supercharger would require me to invest in a few more buckets to sit-on and think.
Goldwing radiator is exactly what I had in mind, thanks for the tip!
If anyone has a good idea for where I goon like me could come up with something that'd serve as a compact supercharger for an engine that displaces 38 cubic inches and turns at about 2600RPM, clue me in... hmmm... how about an OIL PUMP out of an EMD V-16? For just a mild boost, I'd need hmmm... about 50 cubic inches per shaft revolution to yield about oh...4psi of boost?
