• This community needs YOUR help today!

    With the ever-increasing fees of maintaining our vibrant community (servers, software, domains, email), we need help.
    We need more Supporting Members today.

    Please invest back into this community to help spread our love and knowledge of all aspects of IH Cub Cadet and other garden tractors.

    Why Join?

    • Exclusive Access: Gain entry to private forums.
    • Special Perks: Enjoy enhanced account features that enrich your experience, including the ability to disable ads.
    • Free Gifts: Sign up annually and receive exclusive IH Cub Cadet Tractor Forum decals directly to your door!

    This is your chance to make a difference. Become a Supporting Member today:

    Upgrade Now

Archive through April 24, 2011

IH Cub Cadet Forum

Help Support IH Cub Cadet Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
My valves are manually operated and no I did not replace the o rings. I have not found a part # for the backer ring and smaller o ring in the middle.
 
Barry P.
Just curious as to what prompted you to remove them and clean them.
My 149 will roll 30 seconds after you shut it down and has for years.
The 169 on the other hand will not let got for at least 2 hours, LOL
 
Robert M.

You need the following:

1. 3 Point Hitch (pic 1)
2. 90 Deg. right angle drive (pics 2 & 3)
224553.jpg

224554.jpg

224555.jpg


If you get the 90 deg. drive for a # 1 tiller, you will have to change out the lower pulley to use a 5/8” belt.
 
Am in need of a high speed cub. Has rained enough to water ski in the yard!
 
i'm new at this, but wondering if anyone can tell me how many models cub made that are pull start. i have a 61,62 63 all with k161t motors, is there any others. thanks
 
Nick H,

I have a 2' long piece of scrap steel pipe with an ID that slides over the lower spring peg, and an OD that is slightly smaller than the eye on the sping. I simply slide the pipe through the spring, put the end of the pipe on the end of the peg, and pry the spring onto the peg. Easy as pie.
 
News from the 1100: I was able to remove the engine this evening. Pulled the head and cranked her over.

Good news: Piston and bore look great. Valves and combustion area normal.

Bad news: valves are not moving up and down. Rattle/clanking now sounds like broken cam shaft.

Will know when I open her up. Everything else on the tractor is in very good shape.
 
Charlie and Barry,

All three of my hydros can sit for weeks and I cannot roll them without manually unloading the valve.

Perhaps the internal springs are tired allowing the ball check valve to let pressure bleed past.
 
Donald Edgerly,
Pull or recoil start was standard on the Original, model 70 (model, not year), model 71, and model 72. Electric start was an option on these models. The Model 73 is the only 7hp model that had electric start as standard equipment, and pull or recoil start was not available.
 
David S.,
Welcome to the forum and congrats on the 128. The first cub I bought was a 128. Don't think that will be your last cub purchase, because when you get to using it you will get cubcadetitis (yellow & white fever)!
dizzy.gif

I bought my first cub not quite two years ago, and have bought eight more since, along with several implements. Cubs are to men like pocket books are to women, you can never have enough!
WELCOME.gif
 
Charlie, I think IH bought a bunch of leftover coil springs for the front end of a 49 Buick for those plows. Never had one come off before. But it's on now, thanks guys, Nick
 
I am new to this forum and I can use any help I can get ! ;-D I just bought a 1650 Cub Cadet serial number 658585 and it has a metal fuel tank instead of the plastic ones known to be used in these tractors ! I talked to the guy I bought it from and he swears that this metal tank came with the tractor ! ? Also, the muffler is not original and I'm wondering if anyone can tell me the correct muffler and grill screen to be used on my 1650 ? Hopefully, the serial number can help determine this ? I also noticed that there is no IH emblem on the front top grill screen and I'm wondering if there is supposed to be one there ? Then finally, how many manuals and their titles were available for the 1650 tractors ? Is there a service and parts manual available for the 44A mower ? Ok, please advise if you can !! Thanks !!

Paul
 
When I started it up this year it was slow to move at all, I also have very little reverse. Reverse has been getting worse for the last couple of seasons. It appeared that the small amount of reverse was because it was necessary to pull the control into the reverse area of travel to stop the tractor. I tried to do the neutral adjust procedure, but with the plate all the way down the wheels continued to go forward. This is due most likely to the wear on the speed adjustment plates. During this process I noticed the tractor rolling easily after turning the engine off, which is the less important problem for now.
 
Yahooo it's my lucky day and/or can be yours too. You can buy a 2072 for $24.000.00 or a flat belt pulley for $195. on evilpay!!
dunno.gif
censored.gif
 
Paul Burkle,
Look around the site a little and you will find ALL the answers to your questions, except the tank thing.
There's the parts Lookup and the manuals section, to play with, Have some fun!
Tell the guy you bought it from he's full of bird crap, they came with ABS plastic tanks.
 
Hello, I am looking for info, books or parts to mount my Danuser digger to my 104. Any info or pictures of one on a narrow frame would be helpful. Thanks, Jim
 
Donald E,
I have an early 1961 with a four diget serial # it cam with a pull start, the P.O. converted it over after he found out he could have bought a electric start. I have the bill for the E start parts cost him around $200 to convert. Wish he could find the recoil starter as he promised when I bouht it!
 
paul bell how does the recoil go on the back of the motor and still hook the drie shaft thanks don
 

Latest posts

Back
Top