I assume the plug you refer to is the single one on top of the trans. On the parts diagram, it shows that below the plug is an o-ring, "pack shim" (?) and a charge pump relief valve spring. So not sure how careful I'd need to be with taking that out. Can't some fluid be added with a funnel?
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Archive through April 23, 2019
- Thread starter ksymons
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mgwin
Well-known member
Timothy,
Just take the two bolts out that hold it to the frame, and the linkage rod. You should be able to move it enough to one side to get the bolt out.
Just take the two bolts out that hold it to the frame, and the linkage rod. You should be able to move it enough to one side to get the bolt out.
Keith S,
I will need to check on that by consulting the Service Manual. I thought there was a plug for priming the charge pump somewhere but I may be confusing that with a pump on something else. It's not the plug you mention with the relief valve spring. There's also a small flush plug that you use an Allen wrench to remove on the top near one of the dump valves that is used for attaching a pressure gauge to check the charge pump output pressure, so its not that one either.
I will need to check on that by consulting the Service Manual. I thought there was a plug for priming the charge pump somewhere but I may be confusing that with a pump on something else. It's not the plug you mention with the relief valve spring. There's also a small flush plug that you use an Allen wrench to remove on the top near one of the dump valves that is used for attaching a pressure gauge to check the charge pump output pressure, so its not that one either.
dware
Well-known member
What should the voltage be on a 782D while running ? Mine is about 12.5/7 when throttled up .
Dave- I don’t know what the spec is but I’d say you’re at least a volt light.
klindstedt
Well-known member
Off topic Friday post that would normally go in the tool discussion page...
Does anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight throatless shear? As I understand it, the Eastwood shear is the same tool, just different color. I know the Beverly shear is the best throatless shear out there, but for what little sheet metal work I do I can't justify the price.
Does anyone have experience with the Harbor Freight throatless shear? As I understand it, the Eastwood shear is the same tool, just different color. I know the Beverly shear is the best throatless shear out there, but for what little sheet metal work I do I can't justify the price.
Is there a chart somewhere on here that will give me groundspeed of each gear on a 582 with a creeper. bear in mind my internet here is almost a tick better than a tin can. so I hope it isn't full of pictures. thanks Jim.
dware
Well-known member
Gerry , I was thinking around 14 volts more or less depending on battery condition . I guess I will have test alternator / regulator .
snicklas
Well-known member
Jim H,
I don't have a 582 manual handy, the closets I can get is a Quietline Manual. Looking at the chart for the 800, 1000 and 1200 (which use the same 3 speed Cast Iron Rear, the manual shows:
Gear Direct Creeper
First - 2.3 .6
Second - 3.5 1.0
Third - 6.9 1.7
Reverse - 2.5 .6
SO this may not be exactly the speed of a 582, but it should be fairly close.
I don't have a 582 manual handy, the closets I can get is a Quietline Manual. Looking at the chart for the 800, 1000 and 1200 (which use the same 3 speed Cast Iron Rear, the manual shows:
Gear Direct Creeper
First - 2.3 .6
Second - 3.5 1.0
Third - 6.9 1.7
Reverse - 2.5 .6
SO this may not be exactly the speed of a 582, but it should be fairly close.
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2004
- Messages
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- Jim Storma
Update on my 982 hunting and surging. I split the intake manifold by grinding off the nubs with my air tool and a 2" sanding disk. Was able to sneak a 1-1/2" putt knife between the two halves and gently and carefully started to work around little by little prying it in half. Once it was apart, I cleaned of the old sealant from each half. Next I carefully used the 2" sanding disk and air tool to remove most of the nub at each place without touching the sealing surfaces. Put the two halves back together and used bolts and nuts thru the existing mounting holes in each place to hold it together. Used a cordless drill and drilled a clearance hole thru each spot for a 6-32 allen bolt. After that; removed the bolts and nuts; cleaned up the shavings and hand sanded any remaining burrs. Cleaned each sealing surface with rubbing alcohol and used Permatex Motoseal around the sealing surface of both halves. Put the two halves back together and installed a pair of 5/16 bolts and nuts where the carburetor mounts and started to work my way from the center alternating each side to the ends of the manifold. At the ends, 3/8" bolts and nuts were used to hold the final ends together. After this I started to use a pair of wrenches starting from the center again and working my way outward in an alternating pattern I began to snug the bolts and nuts down. Left it sit to cure for a few days and removed the 3/8" and 5/16" bolts and nuts. Gave the 6-32" allen bolts and nuts another snug and was all done ready for re-assembly.
Here is the final product.
After putting the engine back together and trying to start it, I found out the carburetor was not getting any gas and thought the fuel pump took a dump. Realized later while trying to sleep I forgot to turn the gas valve under the tank back open.
Next day turned the valve open and after a little cranking it started right up. Still have a little surging/hunting wide open that will straighten out and run smooth until you move the hydro lever forward fast and it will throw a fit and straighten out again. I saw the governor spring was in the closest hole to the governor shaft so I moved it out to the 3rd hold and tried again. The hunting/surging was a little worse at this point so I moved it back. If the hunting/surging gets annoying I will probably throw an electric fuel pump on it like Mike Masheris said to do and hopefully that will take care of it. Anyway there was a big improvement in how it ran.
Found out while searching the internet RTV sealant is not to be used where gas is present. After contacting Permatex via there website; they told me to use there Motoseal product since gas was present. If you haven't used this product; use it outside. It is a bit runny and has a tenancy to be stringy. I really wish they would include a nozzle for better control and to get in the tighter areas.
Here is the final product.
After putting the engine back together and trying to start it, I found out the carburetor was not getting any gas and thought the fuel pump took a dump. Realized later while trying to sleep I forgot to turn the gas valve under the tank back open.
Next day turned the valve open and after a little cranking it started right up. Still have a little surging/hunting wide open that will straighten out and run smooth until you move the hydro lever forward fast and it will throw a fit and straighten out again. I saw the governor spring was in the closest hole to the governor shaft so I moved it out to the 3rd hold and tried again. The hunting/surging was a little worse at this point so I moved it back. If the hunting/surging gets annoying I will probably throw an electric fuel pump on it like Mike Masheris said to do and hopefully that will take care of it. Anyway there was a big improvement in how it ran.
Found out while searching the internet RTV sealant is not to be used where gas is present. After contacting Permatex via there website; they told me to use there Motoseal product since gas was present. If you haven't used this product; use it outside. It is a bit runny and has a tenancy to be stringy. I really wish they would include a nozzle for better control and to get in the tighter areas.
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- Oct 25, 2005
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- 1,259
- displayname
- Brian Branstetter
That is pretty interesting Jim. Thanks for showing that manifold off and the info on the Permatex.
kide
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2006
- Messages
- 3,779
- displayname
- Gerry Ide
Jim S. .. Surging under load is usually just what you've targeted... the increase in load uses more fuel and if the float level is low or supply not keeping up, the governor calls for more, opening the throttle as speed drops below the set speed. This is presuming you already have the high speed adjusted (too lean will cause surging too).
I've had good luck with the small 12 volt fuel pumps - had an Onan generator that the OEM pump crapped out on, worked great, just make sure you get a low pressure version..
I've had good luck with the small 12 volt fuel pumps - had an Onan generator that the OEM pump crapped out on, worked great, just make sure you get a low pressure version..
Did cub cadet use a 3/8 hydraulic tubing? I think the fittings are 3/8 jic but I want to make sure before I brainstorm a project and find out they used something different.
Here we go again!
