Archive through April 20, 2015

[jboelens]

Darn archive bug!

---> Is the kit for mounting a "Original" timed deck on a 70 a hard to find item? Includes the special Mule drive, the side brackets and engine pulley for crank. I don't know the serial number of the 70 unfortunately, as the rearend was MIA.

 

[kmcconaughey]

John, I have no idea how hard they are to find. Here's all I have on it:

 

[rwalker]

Today I took the snow thrower off of one of the 1450’s and then began to do the spring maintenance. While the oil was draining I began to take the air filter cover off. When I touched the nut for the whole air cleaner assembly it began to move (not good). I removed the outer cover and found the holes for the three retaining screws on the filter backing plate wallered out. Worse yet, ONE OF THE SCREWS WAS MISSING. After looking around thinking it might have dropped out, and not finding it, I began to disassemble and remove the carb. Below is what I found. Further investigation, I found two of the screw holes were stripped. I will now have to install Heli-Coil inserts to fix the carb.

Luckily after removing the screw and putting most of it back together, left off the air cleaner assembly, it ran fine.
Rich W.

 

[lpalma]

John,
those are prolly just as to hard to find just as putting a 3 spindle 38"cast end deck on a Original .

 

[hydroharry]

Richard W - I think it's common for those screws that hold the air cleaner cover, to strip out over time. I've had a few of the Quiet Lines that had the holes in the carb tapped slightly larger and studs inserted so you can use nuts to hold the air cleaner cover. That way you don't have to use screws and worry about stripping the threads.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Vincent T. WOW!!! Now I better put rebuilding Fancy's engine above restoring the Pow'r Pup. Thank You for givng me a heads up on that.

 

[hydroharry]

Marlin - are you up late or up early??? Glad Vincent really confirmed what I was seeing. The 16hp parts are getting hard to find and that means expensive too.

Kraig - Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - thanks for posting the pic of the bolt ID details.

 

[dtanner]

John B

My 61 Original came with a working deck and the 62 O I manage to find the timed deck and all the hard ware to install it and make it cut grass. For the 62 O I just need belts both the timed and short belt to clutch in the deck . Let me know if you need pictures.

 

[mconway]

kraig and charlie...after seeing comments, i'll rethink the wheels. but the brackets are missing and i have material and need to fab up a set. looked all around and can't seem to find any. if there is a drawing around just point me in the right direction and after a second look at the deck wheels...gotta find some with steel rims

 

[digger]

Mike C.
Check out Extreme Motorworks at the top of the page under Mower Parts.
Lots faster than making them.

 

[dfrisk]

CHARLIE - Those brackets are weld-on for the spherical gauge wheels like was offered for the 44 & 50 inch decks. Will also work on older decks too.

What Mike wants is the rear gauge wheel brackets like the 38" & 42" decks used. Stock was about 1/4" thick by 2" "L" shaped, two 5/16" holes to bolt to rear lip of the deck and four 3/8" holes to mount the wheel. I need a pair for the 38" deck I'm working on too.

 

[ccarney]

John Boelens -

I've had kits for the O deck on 70 but over ten years of looking and I've only had 2 complete kits. I think they were offered so IH could unload leftover decks at the beginning of sales for the 70. My opinion is that the other way, 3 blade deck kit for an Original, is even harder to find. I have one and haven't seen a complete one since. The undercarriage and mule drive is diferent.

 

[ccarney]

Denny -

Actually the WP plant was a superfund cleanup site (heavy metals, chromium) along with its neighbor Dutch Boy (lead) Paint and after cleanup they put a solar array on the grounds.
There's a link on www.epa.gov

 

[mconway]

what dennis said....if nothing out there, i'll make some and add adjustment holes to fit might not be factory but i'll make it work. on another thought...couple more pics of the original wood front roller, which i'll seal and reuse and the cleaned up bolt...

 

[kmcconaughey]

Mike C., I have a spare set of the brackets for a 42" deck. Send me an email with your address and they are yours.

(I might keep the IH headed bolts however...)

 

[lpalma]

John B.and Craig,
Here are some pics of my conversion pkg.Those roller bolts male good wheel weight bolts too.

 

[digger]

Senility sets in sometimes, LOL
Here's what I wanted to post, and I think Aaron has them in the works to make.

 

[dfrisk]

CRAIG - I knew Wisconsin Steel was a Super Fund site, but never saw anywhere that WP was. But doesn't surprise me in the least. Things that were common in manufacturing 50, 60, or 80 years ago are impossible to use now. Do a quick search on "cyanide salt bath heat treating".

Mike c. That wood roller looks like it's seen better days. Best way to replace it is to see how large a roller can fit the deck, seems like something over 3 inches fits. Then with that size inside diameter hole saw drill out several wheels from hardwood. Even cheap pine works, four wheels from 2x4's fit fine. And the pine rollers on the front of my 38" deck has worked great for over 32 years, which is over twice as long as the original roller. You'll have to drill out the center hole of the wheels to fit the carriage bolt.

 

[mconway]

thanx charlie, that's what i was thinkin' of doing....

 

[hydroharry]

Mike C - I'm gonna agree in part with one ofDennis' messages. That front roller has seen better days. Also the bolt very likely has. That roller functions as a gauge/guide wheel so the correct dimension is important in keeping the deck from jamming into an uneven surface. And I'd keep that bolt on a shelf or use it for wheel weights as Lew suggested since it very likely is wore to about half it's original diameter and would keep the roller from functioning correctly.

Now, about the rear gauge wheels and brackets. I wonder why yours are missing. Could it be that the bracket almost always cracks the deck where it's bolted on? Or the wheels get in the way when sliding the deck under the tractor? I suggest when you do add the brackets you add a block of steel on the inside of the deck to stiffen it. This will keep the deck from flexing when the gauge wheel touches the ground when you use the deck. Also I wouldn't make the brackets without exact dimensions since alignment and placement are a function of deck performance.

As for what to use for actual gauge wheels, I'm not so sure you need a steel wheel. The later decks came with plastic wheels. I also found the plastic wheel inside bushing surface didn't wear very much in use. The bolt holding it onto the bracket was usually the wear item. Much like the bolt holding the front roller. The steel wears away a lot quicker than the plastic and is also why they started using plastic rollers instead of wood.