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Archive through April 18, 2015

IH Cub Cadet Forum

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jpatchett

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2004
Messages
350
displayname
Jim Patchett
Bill S.

Questions:

1. Was it a frame off restoration, every, part, nut bolt, etc. removed and placed back on better than new. This will be seen in the details. I save the original IH labeled hex bots for reuse, I hand paint the bolts after tightening, paint chips from the wrench.

2. Was the engine rebuilt? If so, what exactly was done. Did the balance gears get removed? Carburetor new, rebuilt, replaced, etc.

3. Was the hydro rear end serviced or replaced?

4. Is the wiring harness new or original?

5. Was the steering box rebuilt? Has the overall steering been restored to like new? How much slop is in the steering wheel?

6. the front PTO recently rebuilt?

7. New tires

8. Lights does it have them, do they work?

9. Starter generator, rebuilt ( at a min. brushes and bearings/bushings).

10. I can go on, but I will leave room for others to add to the list.

Hopefully the person has more $ in the restoration than the selling price. I got a "restored" 149 on evil-bay. It was not my definition of being restored. It was more like they did as little as possible to make it appear restored in the photo.

Jim
 
Wes, the problem with your 50" deck is that is was never made to fit a narrow frame. That's why things didn't line up to begin with.

I'd be real surprised if that 10hp had enough torque to properly spin a 50 at full song in tall grass. Even in first gear.

What size is the drive pulley? Most 50" decks have the drive pulley for a 5/8" belt used on an 82 series.
 
Nic, the 50" decks came out with the 1X8,9 series Mine all have the speed up pulley made for the 1/2" belt. I have mowed my yard for years with a 129 and this deck. The 50" decks actually pull easier than the 48". This 106 has serve me well since I bought it and overhauled it. It also runs very economical and I like the cut with the 50" with Gator blades over the 48" deck. I am going to give it a try in a couple weeks with the first mowing. Maybe by then I will have the 1650 out of it's winter gear and have the snow thrower off if I need to put that into action with it's 50" deck
 
Bill: All of Jim's points are well taken. I can tell you what I've had to fix on my 149, from front to back:

-Lights needed a harness (which I think I located on this site)
-Spindle bushings needed replacement (Cub Cadet Specialties)
. . . (Actually upgraded to 1" spindles)
-Tie rod ends were replaced (Cub Cadet Specialties)
-Muffler needed replacement (located on this site)
-Carb was rebuilt
-Cylinder head gasket needed replacement
. . . (Replaced cylinder head too --from this site)
Gas tank was replaced (located on this site)
Dash --tin and fiberglass-- need replacement
Steering mechanism was rebuilt
Hydro shifting mechanism needed a bushing (and was a pain to get to)
Drive Cup and Drive Shaft needed replacement
. . . (Next time I'll go with a Quietline drive train)
Trunnion needed repair (Emergency Repair still holding after two-to-three years use)
Assorted shims and bushings also helped tighten shifting linkage up
Seat was missing (replacement was donated from parts tractor)
Tail lights were missing (found replacements on this site)

I thought the lift cylinder was bad, but it turned out that filling the transmission with Hytran solved the problem.

All these issues were the result of normal wear and tear and should have been addressed during a competent restoration. I haven't gotten into the engine yet, and I think the cork gasket between the differential and the transmission needs replacing (I keep losing fluid, but the two-piece pipe may also be a culprit). I haven't had to go into the PTO yet, but several PTO parts came with the tractor, so it is certainly a wear point.

So, if I were making your purchase, I would ask about each item on my list too.

You're certainly contemplating a long drive, and are wise to get as much information as you can before "checking it out." By the time you make that kind of drive you've pretty much committed yourself to bringing it home, it's just a matter of working out a price.

According to my records, I've got over $3,800.00 into it so far, which includes the original --to me-- purchase price of $400.00, several decks [and parts to rebuild them] and any special tools I purchased. The only portions that I've gotten painted are the deck and the wheels. As Jim observes, I couldn't possibly hope to get that much out of it, not even half. And it would likely take another $2,000.00 to really do it up right with fresh paint and a rebuilt engine, and again, I would be doing well to get over $1,000.00 for it with the paint still fresh.

However, I can certainly understand why you might want one, it has been my best running tractor to date (and the only one running right now),
and it really hasn't taken too much to it to get it up and running like I want.
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Edit: Forgot-- I had to replace the missing hydro dump valve lever thingie (from Cub Cadet Specialties)
 
looks like IH was good about getting their name on every part back in the day. this is 1 of 7 original spindle bolts i managed to get out of my "new" 42 inch deck. just thought i'd share...i'll be replacing all but i'll hold on to these...

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Mike - why are you replacing them? I always cleaned them up and re-used them (well unless the threads were bad or the squares on the carriage style bolts were rounded). I always liked to keep my stuff original. And when I had the unfortunate experiences of having to send a tractor or accessory to that big IH resting place in the sky, well I always kept the IH stamped hardware, or the later version stamped WP, around to use on the next item I was working over. They are alot better quality than most of the common stuff you can buy today.

Jeremiah - what's wrong with your 782??? And I thought you had a couple other units as well. I see you put alot into the 149. I'd still recommend doing at least the exterior painting. I tend to take better care of stuff that looks nice, and I think it's true for most people (except Jeff B - he just blasts thru everything).
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Bill S - you sure present some hard questions to address on a 149 supposedly restored and located 1000 miles from NM. Some of the guys posted about the things that should have been done. You asked about finding someone in the area to check the unit out. That sounds like a great idea to me before you go making a 1000 mile trip. You're gonna have to tell us where the 149 is generally located and then see if someone on here is around in that area, and willing to have a look-see at this 149. Use of the term "Restored" means alot of different things to alot of different people. To some it means a paint job, others it means everything has been gone over to make sure it works as it should, and to others it means a mostly complete dis-assembly, verification of parts/function components before re-assembly and painting. Pictures and videos can do wonders if this seller could provide them to you along with details of what he means by being restored.
 
harry...i'm gonna keep these for nostalgia...my son has one of those red tractors but my 109 will be his or my daughter's someday and these would be a nice reminder of something i did back in the day.....i just figured for about $30 i can replace everything i pulled off the 42 and throw the originals in a box for future reference for the kids....hope i don't p@#% anybody off here....this site has been a HUGE help to me with my '73 109.....and i'll put more pics of the deck refurb as it progresses....
 
Mike,

IH didn't just get their name put on them.......they made them at tge Weat PUllman plant "WP"......wasn't much that IH didn't make themselves for a good long time.....
 
thanx for the comment steve...was wondering about the wp comment from harry...this tractor/deck combo is gonna be awesome when it's all together...and i have a ton of parts from the 38 inch for spares..more pics to come...thanx for the support...
 
Mike - your 109 tractor should have mostly "WP" stamped hardware on it. I think IH switched the stamping to WP right around the time of the 1x8/9 series began production. Actually, if you have a Blue Ribbon Service Manual someplace in the first few pages it shows pics of the WP stamp on bolt heads and the various grade rating markings.
 
West pullman......can't type on this smart phone....
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West Pullman also made bearings and other small precision parts.
 
Mike.. I like your "nostagia" idea! ? Just my .02 worth.

While I'm here...A little update on the "new" to me 682 I got a couple weeks ago. I finally got the engine pressure washed last weekend to find out if it was "burning" oil or "leaking" oil. I managed to cut the grass today even though the ground is soaked. Ran it for about 30 mins(nice having a 50" deck) and found that the valve covers and front crankshaft seal are leaking really bad. About a half a quart in the 30 min period. The good news is no blue smoke out of the muffler. I've been on the fence about keeping it or selling it because it has the KT17 Series I. I can get all the hydraulic lift parts from a donor 782 and make my 682 a 782 but I'd still be left with a Series I engine. Decisions...Decisions....Decisions...Give me any thoughts or suggestions anyone may have. TIA
 
Ron - the Stage I is supposed to be fine if the land it flat. I guess since it survived this long, and if your land is flat, it's probably worth the risk. I'd just be on the look out for a Stage II.

Jeff B - I figured I'd get a rise out of you, just checking to see if you noticed.
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Steve B - ya I knew you meant West Pullman. I meant to clarify that for everyone. I think the Blue Ribbon Service Manual even mentions the complete name as well. Someone has surely looked by now and could post a pic of the page from the manual. Maybe Kraig- Oh Great One Keeper of the Photos - will do it once he's back to work and on line tomorrow.
 
Harry..Thanks for the input. I do have flat ground so that won't be an issue. A Stage II would be nice or maybe even an 18 Magnum.
 
Does anyone have a good solution for a rear tine tiller that seems to be frozen up, (rusted) from sitting outside? Tines are stuck tight. This one was used with my 1650.
 
Randy - no good easy solution. Dave Calkins is going thru one right now that was basically stuck. Alot more involved than I think he expected. Maybe he'll post some info for you to check.
 
Marlin, 16hp parts and rebuild kits - I'm rather happy you mentioned Foley Belsaw!

I know you can get rebuild kits for most engines from them however when I walked 40 feet from my desk to the Engine guru at Foley Belsaw he said sorry no more 16hp rebuild kits , pistions, etc available. I've gotten 10-12-14hp parts and kits but no more 16hp things.

Things are turning green here in western Wisconsin, it's time to put the 44" mower decks on my 1250, 1650(with a 10hp), and 1806. However the 1250 has a dead battery, and the 1650 decided it did not want to start this weekend, just turns over and does not fire. It ran perfect when I last blew snow with it, in December or January. I'll look into this soon.
 

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