Archive through April 18, 2007

[kweaver]

Wes - I must have missed that discussion. That would maybe be his answer. Not a good one since he'll have to tear into it again but it might be the best outcome.

 

[cklingel]

<blockquote><hr size=0><!-quote-!><font size=1>quote:</font>

Quoting KENtuckyKen on 04-17: Did the thrust washer conversion (part of FAQ 16 super steering box rebuild) and replaced the drag link and tie rod ends with a set of McMaster-Carr 6072K33 Heim style joints with integrated studs ( thanks for that tip, Terry Busch !)<!-/quote-!><hr size=0></blockquote>

Hello Ken,

I'm a new user and six month lurker with a question. Do I need to purchase RH or LH shank Heim Joints for the tie rod and drag link ends? I have ordered the steering column bearing upgrade kit on EBay and this seems like another good update to add the tractor at the same time. The tractor is at our vacation property 240 miles from here, so I can't go out and check it out readily. Thanks for your assistance!

I'll also add a quick intro to the forum while I'm here. I have taken over the maintenance of a '78 1100 (Please don't stone me! <g>) that is
at my in-laws vacation cottage. It's led an easy life, but it's time to give it some attention. The 11 HP B&S was rebuilt (bored wth a new piston) this winter and I've got the repaint done. I still have to shoot some color on the mule drive and deck, but that will come after the spring leaf clean-up job. I've went through the electrical system, added a Tiny Tach, Auto-Meter Sport Comp voltmeter, and a set of new belts. Perhaps someday I'll get a real CC with a Kohler and all, but this is old dog is still better than a lot of stuff you see in the Big Box stores.

 

[kweaver]

Craig - Do I look like this ... This is ugly folks, Please don't look if you've just eaten
Close but no cigar I'm MUCH better lookin! Plus I don't have one of those fancy cityfied cornpickers on the front of my cubs.

Kendell might get cranky if ya think he's me ... ya never know about those guys in MI.

To answer your question though (since cranky isn't here ) When I adjusted my 127 some years back it was ... oh crap I've forgot ... I'm not going to answer that question directly ... but normally a rod with two adjustable ends use R/L threads.

 

[kweaver]

Man if I had the keys to this place I could take it for a spin 'round da block since nobody's lookin.

Hope you're having nice 782Dreams Charlie

 

[rbedell]

Mitch G:

Installing the Charge Pump Housing can be a bit confusing. It can be easily installed backwards. As indicated in this image, the Charge Pump Housing has a flat side on one side...

That flat side has to be mounted in this position...

If this is installed backwards, it won't work.

Now, all these and previous suggestions are based on the assumption, that you have a clean hydro, fresh Hytran, and a new CC Hydro Filter on the pump.

 

[kweaver]

I just put 2 new threads in The Machine Shop that everyone needs to check out. It's old files from the earlier years of the forum. Lots of info.

Roland - Maybe that'll be his problem. It's a shame he may have to tear it down again.

Could Roland's info be put in the FAQ somewhere ... so when someone asks I can shout FAQ!

I just love those three letters

More bad news in the Sandbox about Pet Food too.
I updated my Purtyfile too ! Scary!!

 

[mgargac]

I marked the pump before I removed it, and it was easy to tell which way it went back on since the yellow paint was brighter on the bottom.

I also installed a new filter just to be sure.

Going to look at the suction tube underneath next. Nothing is leaking. Could it be plugged? The HyTran was replaced December/January, and it worked after that. Should I put new HyTran in?

I have a spare/used hydro unit on hand that I was told worked when it was parted out. It may be going on if I cannot get this one working.

thanks for all the guidance.

Mitch

 

[rbedell]

Mitch G:

Yes, I suppose the suction tube could be partially plugged. Worth taking a look.

If your Hytran and Hydro filter were recently replaced, I kind of doubt that is the problem.

What is your Charge Pump Pressure...??

You could install a lower pressure range gauge (0-250#), since you are only measuring the pump at the normal operating range. You would see about ~650# if you had a hydro lift circuit to your cub when the implement lever is engaged.

Also, here is a hydro piping schematic to show the flow of HyTran to help you in diagnosing..

FYI - In the above schematic, #1 is considered the Sump.

 

[glippert]

Ken - Looking at the times of your various posts, I was going to ask whether you ever sleep? But then I saw your new profile pic and the answer became clear: That's not the face of a well-rested man!

(You'll note, my face isn't visible on my profile; Something to do with a restraining order against showing my face in public in 3 states and 2 provinces!)

{Got your email, Ken. Thanks}

 

[kmcconaughey]

If you took photos at Plow Day 13 and would like a free copy of the Plow Day 13 Photo Collection please send me your photos on CD. Here is my mailing address:

Kraig McConaughey
1813 37th Street
Somerset, WI 54025

If you only took a dozen or so photos and your internet connection can handle it you can send them via email. My email address is in my profile.

I spent the last two evenings capturing the approximate 1 and 3/4 hours of video that I took, but I have not watched it yet. I should have them ready for sale soon but I will hold off with that announcement until I get all the photos submitted so please send your photos soon!

Thank you.

 

[rwilke]

Craig K. / KENtuckyKEN,

In reference to the question regarding RH or LH shank heim joints for the tie rod and drag link ends -- I looked in the MTD Cub Cadet Parts Lookup link (above) and plugged in model #1100 and it indicated that both end joints were the same part number (which, by the way, was also the same part # for a CC127 model). Being listed as the same part # would lead me to believe that both sides are the same 3/8"-24 thread style. It didn't, however, indicate whether it has RH or LH threads. Although if I were a betting man, I'd bet that the joint ends have RH threads at the female shank and stud ends.

Just trying to be of some assistance,
Ryan W

P.S.
Assuming a 3/8"-24 RH/RH threaded joint, the McM-C part choices would be:
#6058K28, OEM-style, shielded ball joint. ~$4. each.
#60645K441, is a High-Strength, steel ball joint. ~$6. each.
#6072K33 is a bronze race ball joint. ~$7 each.
#60745K84, is a High-Strength, PFTE-lined ball joint. ~$20. each.

 

[cklingel]

Craig K. / KENtuckyKEN,
Quoting Ryan on 04-19-2007:
In reference to the question regarding RH or LH shank heim joints for the tie rod and drag link ends -- I looked in the MDT Cub Cadet Parts Lookup link (above) and plugged in model #1100 and it indicated that both end joints were the same part number (which, by the way, was also the same part # for a CC127 model). Being listed as the same part # would lead me to believe that both sides are the same 3/8"-24 thread style. It didn't, however, indicate whether it has RH or LH threads. Although if I were a betting man, I'd bet that the joint ends have RH threads at the female shank and stud ends.

Thank you for the input. I had found that all four shared common part numbers, but I wasn't sure if CC had a definite LH or RH shank thread. I guess I'll roll the dice on RH threads for all of the the shanks and studs unless someone has more detailed info to share.

I also appreciate your including the part numbers. This confirms what I was going to order according to an old thread I located while doing a search on this topic and Ken's post. I'll guess I'll get spendy and pop for the $7 bronze units.

 

[kweaver]

Ryan - I was 99.9% sure they were right hand thread but I wasn't going to type it, but I sure hinted at it.

 

[digger]

Did someone break this thing!

 

[bbranstetter]

Kraig,

Your CD hit the mail today, first class. Tammie and I got somewhere close to 90 pics.

<-- I've been hopen to see that one come up.

 

[cklingel]

Quoting KENtuckyKEN on 04-19-2007
Ryan - I was 99.9% sure they were right hand thread but I wasn't going to type it, but I sure hinted at it.

KENtuckyKEN,

Thanks for your assistance on the on the thread direction isue. I thought I had replied to your response to my query, but I must have botched it with a newbie error.

 

[digger]

Craig K.
Not to worry!
The Grump thinks he replies all the time. Only problem is his puter doesn't understand what he says to it!

He forgets that he has to type to get something posted.

 

[glippert]

Ken's probably got a dang yankee computer & he's typing in a Kentucky dialect!

 

[mhomrighausen]

Mitch G. You stated something that intrigues me. That is: "Is there something I need to do to prime it? I thought it should automatically do this since is is based on suction."

Did you... "remove the plug from the charge pressure port and slowly turn the input shaft (hand cranking is recommended) until fluid flows from this port." The pumps aren't supposed to suction bleed themselves.

Just a thought... too tired for any more nonsensical nuances though. Don't ask where I come up with this stuff either.

 

[mhomrighausen]

Kentucky Ken. I got to visit briefly with a coworker today. Her last name is also Weaver and she hails from your state. She grew up in the capitol. I'll try and show her your profile pic sometime.

To keep on topic. If'n I don't work this weekend I hope to mow the lawn with both the 125 and the 782D. Hard to believe that I'll have two Cubs to do the chores with.